How to Quilt With a Regular Sewing Machine
Choose a simple block shape to sew., You'll need two sizes of squares, one an inch (2.5cm) bigger all around than the other., Center a batting square on the "wrong" side of your larger backing square., Sew the seam., Press the seam open and place...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Choose a simple block shape to sew.
Diagonals work well, as do crazy quilt designs.
Keep in mind that you'll be limited to straight sewn lines in your designs (as you would have in a foundation pieced block). , The beauty of this is that you can do all of your cutting with a rotary cutter using your regular cutting rulers if you like.
The large squares will be used for the backing fabric.
The small squares will be used for your batting and top pieces.
The squares used in this example were 7 inches (17.78cm) and 5 inches (12.7cm) square respectively, making the larger square two inches (5cm) longer per side., You're now ready to place the first block pieces on the top.
Starting with your first piece Place the first block piece on the batting, face up.
If you want adjacent blocks to line up exactly, make a cardboard "starting point" template to line up your first block with.
Putting the two blocks together Place the second block piece face down with the seam edges lined up with the first piece. , Sew it through both block pieces, through the batting, and through the backing, like a giant sandwich., Stop each seam at the edge of the batting.
Note:
If you're using a poly batting, take care to press with a cool iron, as a hot iron will compress a poly batting.
Cotton batting is best for this project. , Trim any fabric which protrudes past the batting edge.
If you're careful, this can be done with your rotary cutter and a ruler as well., You have made one block.
Create the rest, and then start to join them together as follows:
Place two blocks backing side to backing side, with edges lined up.
Feel carefully to ensure that the batting edges line up.
Sew a seam down the inch (2.5cm) wide flap(s) just barely outside of the batting.
Take care not to catch the batting into the seam, as this will make the finished seam bunch up.
Press the seam open from both sides.
From the front side, fold or roll the inch flaps under themselves and pin in place.
Top stitch both of the folded edges down. ,, The maximum length of fabric under the neck of your machine at any time will be 10-12 inches (25.4cm to
30.48cm); this is very manageable for a "regular" machine., The back of the blocks will already be quilted.
No need to go through the whole quilt frame and long arm rigmarole! -
Step 2: You'll need two sizes of squares
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Step 3: one an inch (2.5cm) bigger all around than the other.
-
Step 4: Center a batting square on the "wrong" side of your larger backing square.
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Step 5: Sew the seam.
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Step 6: Press the seam open and place the next block piece in the same manner
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Step 7: lining up the edges
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Step 8: sewing the seam
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Step 9: pressing open
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Step 10: until you reach the edges of the block.
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Step 11: Turn the inch (2.5cm) wide
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Step 12: unquilted border section of the block sandwich under the block out of the way.
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Step 13: Repeat for all four sides.
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Step 14: Sew rows of blocks together in this manner.
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Step 15: Sew the rows together
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Step 16: stitching the flap edges together
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Step 17: and then pressing them open and top stitching the entire row.
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Step 18: Roll the outside edges over and top stitch to finish the edge.
Detailed Guide
Diagonals work well, as do crazy quilt designs.
Keep in mind that you'll be limited to straight sewn lines in your designs (as you would have in a foundation pieced block). , The beauty of this is that you can do all of your cutting with a rotary cutter using your regular cutting rulers if you like.
The large squares will be used for the backing fabric.
The small squares will be used for your batting and top pieces.
The squares used in this example were 7 inches (17.78cm) and 5 inches (12.7cm) square respectively, making the larger square two inches (5cm) longer per side., You're now ready to place the first block pieces on the top.
Starting with your first piece Place the first block piece on the batting, face up.
If you want adjacent blocks to line up exactly, make a cardboard "starting point" template to line up your first block with.
Putting the two blocks together Place the second block piece face down with the seam edges lined up with the first piece. , Sew it through both block pieces, through the batting, and through the backing, like a giant sandwich., Stop each seam at the edge of the batting.
Note:
If you're using a poly batting, take care to press with a cool iron, as a hot iron will compress a poly batting.
Cotton batting is best for this project. , Trim any fabric which protrudes past the batting edge.
If you're careful, this can be done with your rotary cutter and a ruler as well., You have made one block.
Create the rest, and then start to join them together as follows:
Place two blocks backing side to backing side, with edges lined up.
Feel carefully to ensure that the batting edges line up.
Sew a seam down the inch (2.5cm) wide flap(s) just barely outside of the batting.
Take care not to catch the batting into the seam, as this will make the finished seam bunch up.
Press the seam open from both sides.
From the front side, fold or roll the inch flaps under themselves and pin in place.
Top stitch both of the folded edges down. ,, The maximum length of fabric under the neck of your machine at any time will be 10-12 inches (25.4cm to
30.48cm); this is very manageable for a "regular" machine., The back of the blocks will already be quilted.
No need to go through the whole quilt frame and long arm rigmarole!
About the Author
Stephanie West
Dedicated to helping readers learn new skills in organization and beyond.
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