How to Build a Fishing Chair
Gather the tools and materials you will need., Rip some 2x4 lumber 1 1⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) wide, various lengths., Find a flat surface to lay out your pieces., Align the back and seat frame members so the angle suits you, then place the back leg...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Gather the tools and materials you will need.
Keep it simple! A circular saw, drill with a screw-driving attachment, and an extension cord are all the power equipment used for the chair in these photos.
Along with the tools, some 2 inch (5.1 cm) wood screws, scrap cedar 1X2s from a construction dumpster, a treated 2X4 8 foot long, and a tape and square were all that were used for this project. -
Step 2: Rip some 2x4 lumber 1 1⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) wide
For reference, the actual angles and cut lengths for this chair are listed under Things You'll Need.
Note that these can be modified to fit the individual's preferences. , The photo will illustrate this step better than it can be described, but basically, you have the seat support intersecting with the back frame at about a 53 degree angle.
Next, a rear leg support intersects with the seat, about 8 to 10 inches (20.3 to
25.4 cm) from the back frame. ,, This will give you the angle of each cut, and because the seat and back angle are subject to personal preference, we won't go into great detail here. , You may want to tack them with a wood screw to get an idea if the finished chair will sit at the right height and angle for you. , Countersink them if you prefer, but keep in mind, these steps describe building a fishing chair, not a showroom piece of furniture. ,, If you make a mistake here, you can always unscrew the mis-cut piece and replace it, but cut long, it is easier to lower the chair seating height than to raise it. , These are your seat slats, and you can cut longer slats for wider seats, or reduce the length for narrow fisher persons. , Use one screw in each end so you can rack the assembly if it is out of square. , If you prefer, you can eye-ball the assembly, but using a steel square will insure the finished chair doesn't wobble when it is set on a flat surface. , Depending on how deep the seat is, and how high the back is, you will need a total of about 20 slats.
These can be spaced half an inch or so apart so water will drain through them if left in the rain. , Attach these strips as shown in the photo, after making sure the frame is square. , Here, since there was no thinner lumber laying around, a 2X4 was split width-wise to yield two 1X4s, about 19 inches (48.3 cm) long. , This attachment should be very secure, since it reinforces the back frame and stabilizes the chair assembly. , -
Step 3: various lengths.
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Step 4: Find a flat surface to lay out your pieces.
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Step 5: Align the back and seat frame members so the angle suits you
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Step 6: then place the back leg member underneath in a position that will allow you to scribe it to cut to length after you have fit the rest of the frame together.
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Step 7: Mark each framing member where it intersects the adjacent one.
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Step 8: Cut the marks you have scribed with your circular saw
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Step 9: and dry fit the pieces together.
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Step 10: Attach the frame in the configuration illustrated in the photo
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Step 11: using 2 inch (5.1 cm)
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Step 12: number 12 wood screws.
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Step 13: Attach the front leg
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Step 14: fastening it through the joint of the rear leg and seat support to give this connection increased strength.
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Step 15: Stand the chair up on your work surface
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Step 16: and tilt it so that it is at the correct height and amount of reclining angle you want
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Step 17: then scribe either the front
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Step 18: or both legs to cut them to length.
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Step 19: Cut strips of wood 1 1⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) wide
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Step 20: and 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) thick
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Step 21: about 20 inches (50.8 cm) long.
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Step 22: Attach three of the slats
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Step 23: one at the point where the back intersects the seat
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Step 24: one at the front of the seat
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Step 25: and one at the top of the back
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Step 26: as shown in the photo.
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Step 27: Square up your chair frame.
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Step 28: Finish attaching the slats for the seat and back of your chair.
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Step 29: Rip 1/2 inch (5.1 cm) thick strips of 1 1/2 inch (5.1 cm) wide lumber to attach to the back frame as a cross bracing to make the chair stable.
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Step 30: Cut the armrests
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Step 31: as shown in the photo.
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Step 32: Attach your armrests to the top of the front leg posts
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Step 33: and to the back frame.
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Step 34: Finish the chair if you like
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Step 35: but for all practical purposes
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Step 36: you are ready to go fishing.
Detailed Guide
Keep it simple! A circular saw, drill with a screw-driving attachment, and an extension cord are all the power equipment used for the chair in these photos.
Along with the tools, some 2 inch (5.1 cm) wood screws, scrap cedar 1X2s from a construction dumpster, a treated 2X4 8 foot long, and a tape and square were all that were used for this project.
For reference, the actual angles and cut lengths for this chair are listed under Things You'll Need.
Note that these can be modified to fit the individual's preferences. , The photo will illustrate this step better than it can be described, but basically, you have the seat support intersecting with the back frame at about a 53 degree angle.
Next, a rear leg support intersects with the seat, about 8 to 10 inches (20.3 to
25.4 cm) from the back frame. ,, This will give you the angle of each cut, and because the seat and back angle are subject to personal preference, we won't go into great detail here. , You may want to tack them with a wood screw to get an idea if the finished chair will sit at the right height and angle for you. , Countersink them if you prefer, but keep in mind, these steps describe building a fishing chair, not a showroom piece of furniture. ,, If you make a mistake here, you can always unscrew the mis-cut piece and replace it, but cut long, it is easier to lower the chair seating height than to raise it. , These are your seat slats, and you can cut longer slats for wider seats, or reduce the length for narrow fisher persons. , Use one screw in each end so you can rack the assembly if it is out of square. , If you prefer, you can eye-ball the assembly, but using a steel square will insure the finished chair doesn't wobble when it is set on a flat surface. , Depending on how deep the seat is, and how high the back is, you will need a total of about 20 slats.
These can be spaced half an inch or so apart so water will drain through them if left in the rain. , Attach these strips as shown in the photo, after making sure the frame is square. , Here, since there was no thinner lumber laying around, a 2X4 was split width-wise to yield two 1X4s, about 19 inches (48.3 cm) long. , This attachment should be very secure, since it reinforces the back frame and stabilizes the chair assembly. ,
About the Author
Jerry Cooper
Experienced content creator specializing in hobbies guides and tutorials.
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