How to Build a Habitat for Leopard Geckos

You need to think about where your gecko will live., Substrate is what you put at the bottom of the tank., Leopard geckos need heat to digest their food., You'll want to keep accurate thermometers (the most accurate being digital ones with a probe...

7 Steps 4 min read Medium

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: You need to think about where your gecko will live.

    The tank can either have a screen top or a sliding door at the front (better for taming).

    You can use an aquarium, vivarium, or terrarium.

    The tank should be wider than it is tall.

    A 10 gallon (37.9 L) tank is enough for one adult gecko, but if you're getting more than one, a 20 or even 30 gallon (113.6 L) tank is best.

    Adults have no size limit, but should be provided with plenty of hides in larger tanks.

    Only females who're similar in size can be housed together, and they still have potential to fight.

    Keep an extra tank in case they fight.
  2. Step 2: Substrate is what you put at the bottom of the tank.

    The best options are textured tile or dry Eco earth.

    Tile conducts heat very well and is easily cleanable, and Eco earth promotes digging and lasts for six months.

    If you want your tank to look nice, an indoor or outdoor reptile carpet would be suitable.

    Yet, if any pieces of the carpet are sticking up, there is a chance a gecko's claw or tooth can get stuck.

    Insects can also get underneath it.

    It is a bad idea to use sand, especially for baby leopard geckos.

    If they eat it either by accident or not, it can cause serious health problems like impaction.

    You can use paper towel, but insects can get underneath it.

    You could use excavator clay instead, but there is a small impaction risk and a heat mat can't be used. , The best choice would be an under tank heater.

    This way, when the gecko is done eating they can lay on the heater and get the belly warmth.

    On an under tank heater, there is a sticky side.

    You stick that side under the tank, and plug it in to an outlet.

    If you use a vivarium, the UTH goes inside the tank.

    After a couple hours it will reach full heat.

    If you choose a heater, make sure it is only the size of a third of the tank, so the gecko can pick the hot or cool side to be on.alf Another heat option is an overhead light, but this should only be used as well as a heat mat, when the heat mat is not enough heat.

    This will provide light and heat, although geckos are crepuscular (active during dawn and dusk) so they might be bothered with the bright light. , The side with the pad should be around 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and the opposite side should be around 80 degrees.

    The warm side can drop to 80 degrees at night. ,:
    The humid hide should be one of the hides on the warm side.

    This is where geckos go to have a humid climate, so they can easily shed their skin.

    Inside of this hide you will either need wet paper towels, damp peat moss, or Eco earth.

    Spray this hide with a water bottle each day and for the hot hid make sure it's on top of the heat mat.

    The cold side should be a dry hide.

    Things to use for this hide is any hiding places big enough for your gecko you find at the pet store-like hollow logs.

    Make sure these hides actually hide your gecko and don't go up against the glass. , The water dish should be in the middle of the tank, or next to one of the hides.

    It needs to be shallow enough so your gecko can drink without having to go inside of it, but big enough to hold enough water for a day and let your gecko bathe in it.

    Make sure to replace with fresh, clean water when low or dirty.

    Use bottled water, tap water left out for 24 hours, or water treated with reptisafe (found in pet stores).
  3. Step 3: Leopard geckos need heat to digest their food.

  4. Step 4: You'll want to keep accurate thermometers (the most accurate being digital ones with a probe or temperature guns) in the tank so you can keep a close eye on the temperatures.

  5. Step 5: As for furnishings

  6. Step 6: there should be two hiding places on the hot side of the tank and one on the cooler side.

  7. Step 7: You gecko will need a water dish and a food dish if feeding meal worms.

Detailed Guide

The tank can either have a screen top or a sliding door at the front (better for taming).

You can use an aquarium, vivarium, or terrarium.

The tank should be wider than it is tall.

A 10 gallon (37.9 L) tank is enough for one adult gecko, but if you're getting more than one, a 20 or even 30 gallon (113.6 L) tank is best.

Adults have no size limit, but should be provided with plenty of hides in larger tanks.

Only females who're similar in size can be housed together, and they still have potential to fight.

Keep an extra tank in case they fight.

The best options are textured tile or dry Eco earth.

Tile conducts heat very well and is easily cleanable, and Eco earth promotes digging and lasts for six months.

If you want your tank to look nice, an indoor or outdoor reptile carpet would be suitable.

Yet, if any pieces of the carpet are sticking up, there is a chance a gecko's claw or tooth can get stuck.

Insects can also get underneath it.

It is a bad idea to use sand, especially for baby leopard geckos.

If they eat it either by accident or not, it can cause serious health problems like impaction.

You can use paper towel, but insects can get underneath it.

You could use excavator clay instead, but there is a small impaction risk and a heat mat can't be used. , The best choice would be an under tank heater.

This way, when the gecko is done eating they can lay on the heater and get the belly warmth.

On an under tank heater, there is a sticky side.

You stick that side under the tank, and plug it in to an outlet.

If you use a vivarium, the UTH goes inside the tank.

After a couple hours it will reach full heat.

If you choose a heater, make sure it is only the size of a third of the tank, so the gecko can pick the hot or cool side to be on.alf Another heat option is an overhead light, but this should only be used as well as a heat mat, when the heat mat is not enough heat.

This will provide light and heat, although geckos are crepuscular (active during dawn and dusk) so they might be bothered with the bright light. , The side with the pad should be around 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and the opposite side should be around 80 degrees.

The warm side can drop to 80 degrees at night. ,:
The humid hide should be one of the hides on the warm side.

This is where geckos go to have a humid climate, so they can easily shed their skin.

Inside of this hide you will either need wet paper towels, damp peat moss, or Eco earth.

Spray this hide with a water bottle each day and for the hot hid make sure it's on top of the heat mat.

The cold side should be a dry hide.

Things to use for this hide is any hiding places big enough for your gecko you find at the pet store-like hollow logs.

Make sure these hides actually hide your gecko and don't go up against the glass. , The water dish should be in the middle of the tank, or next to one of the hides.

It needs to be shallow enough so your gecko can drink without having to go inside of it, but big enough to hold enough water for a day and let your gecko bathe in it.

Make sure to replace with fresh, clean water when low or dirty.

Use bottled water, tap water left out for 24 hours, or water treated with reptisafe (found in pet stores).

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Anna Armstrong

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