How to Build a Hidden Door Bookshelf
Calculate the dimensions of your space., Weld a steel frame to support the bookcase., Install the steel frame., Build the bookcase into and around the frame., Install a wooden doorstop above the door., Test the finished product.
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Calculate the dimensions of your space.
First, measure how wide the bookshelf will need to be to cover the door.
Then, determine whether or not you can put the bookcase far enough away from the soon-to-be-hidden door that it can swing outwards without hitting any neighboring walls or furniture.
Make sure that the hidden door won’t swing into the bookshelf, either. , Don't hinge the wood shelves directly; a steel frame made from box tubing will allow the door to swing easily and will support 500-1000lbs / 225-450kg (a full bookshelf) with no problem.
Calculate the size of the frame.
The width should just cover the access door and be centered.
The height should allow a minimum clearance from the floor for trim and base board and enough clearance from the ceiling for the metal frame barely below the crown.
Attach 3/4in (19mm) bolts to act as the pivot pins.
First, weld a piece of scrap 1/4in (6mm) plate to each pivot point, one of which should be on the top of the frame and the other, directly opposite it on the bottom.
Then,weld a bolt to each plate for extra strength.
Finally, cut each bolt to 2in (5cm) long.
Each pivot will fit inside a ceiling or floor mount that you will install later. , Build a ceiling anchor.
An ideal piece of scrap steel (such as the one shown below) would already have holes in it for the pivot bolts.
Size the ceiling anchor to span 3 joists.
Add a short arm out to avoid rocking (which can be done with scrap steel).
The short arm has to align with a joist or it will rock and break out the ceiling.
Make the pivot point with a 3/4in (19mm) brass flange bearing inserted into a 1in (25mm) hole in the 2x2in (5x5cm) box.
Build a floor anchor.
Unless it will be bolted to a concrete floor (in which case it can be much smaller than the ceiling anchor), simply repeat the process outlined above.
Position and place the top anchor, base anchor, and frame.
Attach the top anchor loosely (letting it rock), slip in the frame and bottom anchor on the pin (with 2 washers on the pin above the bearing), then slide the whole set into place.
Hang a plumb bob along the edge of the frame to tell if it is vertical in both directions.
When true, secure bolts on both ends.
At the pivot point, split a tiny piece (about 3/8in / 19mm) of nylon tubing and slip it on the exposed bolt.
This keeps the bearing from slipping down.
Test the swing of the door frame.
For an accurate test, position 500lbs / 225kgs’ worth of people in it. , Build the bookcase in the frame.
When sizing it, be sure to verify the clearance.
You can make the swinging bookcase 2in (5cm) shallower than the other shelves to allow clearance behind it for when it is swung.
Build the two side bookshelves and install trim all around.
To measure the clearance between the trim and the crown, use a credit card.
The trim on the hinged side of the shelf-door should be attached to the fixed shelf; on the non-hinged side, however, it should move with the door.
If the horizontal trim dives under it as the door opens, bevel notches in the trim on the right.
If necessary, slightly round the horizontal pieces to slip underneath smoothly. , This can simply be a block of wood with a strong magnet (ex. a door magnet) held in place where the frame should ideally rest.
This will not only hit the steel to keep the door from closing too far, but also hold the door so that it doesn't float open. , Make sure it swings nicely and looks inconspicuous. -
Step 2: Weld a steel frame to support the bookcase.
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Step 3: Install the steel frame.
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Step 4: Build the bookcase into and around the frame.
-
Step 5: Install a wooden doorstop above the door.
-
Step 6: Test the finished product.
Detailed Guide
First, measure how wide the bookshelf will need to be to cover the door.
Then, determine whether or not you can put the bookcase far enough away from the soon-to-be-hidden door that it can swing outwards without hitting any neighboring walls or furniture.
Make sure that the hidden door won’t swing into the bookshelf, either. , Don't hinge the wood shelves directly; a steel frame made from box tubing will allow the door to swing easily and will support 500-1000lbs / 225-450kg (a full bookshelf) with no problem.
Calculate the size of the frame.
The width should just cover the access door and be centered.
The height should allow a minimum clearance from the floor for trim and base board and enough clearance from the ceiling for the metal frame barely below the crown.
Attach 3/4in (19mm) bolts to act as the pivot pins.
First, weld a piece of scrap 1/4in (6mm) plate to each pivot point, one of which should be on the top of the frame and the other, directly opposite it on the bottom.
Then,weld a bolt to each plate for extra strength.
Finally, cut each bolt to 2in (5cm) long.
Each pivot will fit inside a ceiling or floor mount that you will install later. , Build a ceiling anchor.
An ideal piece of scrap steel (such as the one shown below) would already have holes in it for the pivot bolts.
Size the ceiling anchor to span 3 joists.
Add a short arm out to avoid rocking (which can be done with scrap steel).
The short arm has to align with a joist or it will rock and break out the ceiling.
Make the pivot point with a 3/4in (19mm) brass flange bearing inserted into a 1in (25mm) hole in the 2x2in (5x5cm) box.
Build a floor anchor.
Unless it will be bolted to a concrete floor (in which case it can be much smaller than the ceiling anchor), simply repeat the process outlined above.
Position and place the top anchor, base anchor, and frame.
Attach the top anchor loosely (letting it rock), slip in the frame and bottom anchor on the pin (with 2 washers on the pin above the bearing), then slide the whole set into place.
Hang a plumb bob along the edge of the frame to tell if it is vertical in both directions.
When true, secure bolts on both ends.
At the pivot point, split a tiny piece (about 3/8in / 19mm) of nylon tubing and slip it on the exposed bolt.
This keeps the bearing from slipping down.
Test the swing of the door frame.
For an accurate test, position 500lbs / 225kgs’ worth of people in it. , Build the bookcase in the frame.
When sizing it, be sure to verify the clearance.
You can make the swinging bookcase 2in (5cm) shallower than the other shelves to allow clearance behind it for when it is swung.
Build the two side bookshelves and install trim all around.
To measure the clearance between the trim and the crown, use a credit card.
The trim on the hinged side of the shelf-door should be attached to the fixed shelf; on the non-hinged side, however, it should move with the door.
If the horizontal trim dives under it as the door opens, bevel notches in the trim on the right.
If necessary, slightly round the horizontal pieces to slip underneath smoothly. , This can simply be a block of wood with a strong magnet (ex. a door magnet) held in place where the frame should ideally rest.
This will not only hit the steel to keep the door from closing too far, but also hold the door so that it doesn't float open. , Make sure it swings nicely and looks inconspicuous.
About the Author
Sandra Baker
Specializes in breaking down complex lifestyle topics into simple steps.
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