How to Build a Kegerator
Understand the basic functions and components of a kegerator., Obtain the necessary components., Carefully read all instructions and warnings for all of the components., Determine how the components should be placed in the refrigerator., Choose a...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Understand the basic functions and components of a kegerator.
A kegerator is essentially a keg of beer that is kept cold in a refrigerator.
The refrigerator has a beer tap or faucet protruding from it, from which the beer is dispensed.
The beer is forced through the faucet from the keg by forcing carbon dioxide into the keg.
A small tank (cylinder) of carbon dioxide is used to supply the gas pressure, and maintain a specific pressure in the keg so that beer can be dispensed evenly at any time.
A regulator that is attached to the gas cylinder enables one to regulate the pressure.
There is vinyl "gas" tubing that goes from the gas cylinder and regulator to the "in" port of the keg.
From the "out" port of the keg there is the "beer" or "beverage" line, more vinyl tubing that goes to the beer faucet. -
Step 2: Obtain the necessary components.
The components will be somewhat variable, depending on the type of beer that is to be dispensed, and number and types of kegs that will be on tap at one time.
The components generally include:
One refrigerator large enough to contain the type of keg(s) that will be utilized, beer faucet(s) and handle, faucet shank (long enough to protrude through refrigerator), wing nut with washer and tailpiece to attach the shank to the beverage tubing (if not already part of the shank), beverage and gas line connectors or coupler for type of keg that is to be used, fasteners such as worm clamps for the tubing, CO2 cylinder, CO2 gas regulator, and appropriately sized vinyl tubing.
The vinyl beer line should be five feet or more in length (to reduce beer foam), while the vinyl gas line should be about three feet or more in length, and be able to withstand high gas pressure.
Also consult the list of "Things You'll Need" below. , Make absolutely sure that you understand how to use and operate the CO2 gas cylinder and regulator.
Always keep gas cylinders secured and in an upright position.
CO2 cylinders are shipped empty, and must be filled locally.
See "Warnings" below. , This can be done by measuring the components as well as the inside of the refrigerator, and by fitting the components in the refrigerator.
Make sure that the kegerator door can be closed properly, that the components won't tip over, and that the beverage and gas lines won't be impeded or compressed.
Make sure that the shank will protrude adequately through the refrigerator (shanks are available in different lengths), and that the protruding end has enough room inside the refrigerator.
It is customary to place the gas hardware in the refrigerator with the keg, although this is not necessary.
However, an additional hole will have to be drilled for the gas line if the gas hardware is placed outside the refrigerator. , Refrigerators have internal components that must be completely avoided.
It is generally easiest and safest to drill a hole though the refrigerator door. , It is generally best to use a level and a ruler when determining where to drill the hole.
Remove the keg and gas hardware from the refrigerator.
Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged. , A larger drill bit such as 1 1/8" can be used to leave a little extra space if desired.
A neater and possibly stronger fit can be produced with a narrower drill bit.
A bit larger than 1 1/8" will probably produce a hole that is too large.
Be sure to check the dimensions of the shank before choosing a drill bit, and account for the thickness of the refrigerator.
The metal exterior of the refrigerator can provide some resistance when drilling, but the insulation and plastic that exists under the metal skin should be very easy to drill through.
The centered inner drill bit that protrudes from and is part of the hole saw should enable the drilling to start relatively easily, and will hold the drill bit in place while beginning to drill.
If the drill bit cannot readily penetrate the metal exterior, it may be necessary to start a smaller hole with a small regular drill bit.
Be sure to clean up all the debris that was produced from the hole drilling, and make sure that the internal components of the refrigerator were not damaged.
The refrigerator insulation can break apart easily and get on the shank (and possibly in the beer), so it may be a good idea to line the inside of the shank hole with something to prevent this, especially if the shank will be removed frequently.
Oftentimes it is not necessary to remove the shank, but certain cleaning methods may require the shank to be removed.
For example, cleanser and sanitizer can be simply run through the beer lines to clean a kegerator, or the beer lines (including faucet and shank) can be removed, broken down, and soaked in cleanser and sanitizer.
If the hole that has been drilled is found to be too small, it may be necessary to grind the metal layer of the refrigerator with a tool such as a Dremel to widen the opening.
If the hole that has been drilled is found to be too big, it should be possible to install an extra reinforcing plate on the inside of the refrigerator.
To do this, merely cut a piece of thin yet strong material that will cover and overlap the area inside of the refrigerator where the hole was drilled.
Then drill a smaller hole in the piece of material that will properly accommodate the shank and associated hardware.
Insert the shank through the refrigerator and through the rear reinforcing plate, and screw on the hardware that attaches the shank.
This can also be done to reinforce a properly fitted shank. , Anything that comes in contact with the beer should be clean and sanitized.
The gas lines and hardware should be clean and free of dust and debris that may end up in the beer. , Attach the beer line to the connector or coupler that attaches it to the keg, and attach the beer line to the faucet shank tailpiece.
If the shank does not have a unified tailpiece, then a wing nut, separate tailpiece, and neoprene washer will be needed.
The separate tailpiece is held within the wing nut and attached to the tubing with a worm clamp.
The wing nut rotates freely around the tailpiece.
The neoprene washer is ultimately sandwiched between the tailpiece and the end of the shank.
The wing nut holds the tailpiece against the shank.
Secure both ends of the tubing with worm clamps or similar hardware.
All beverage and gas lines must be completely secured so that beer and gas leaks do not result.
To keep the pressure balanced up to the tap (and not produce a mug full of foam), special "Beverage" tubing is used.
The beer line should be at least five feet in length when using 3/16" beverage tubing in order to pour a good pint. , The gas line should be about three feet or more in length. , The regulator must also be completely shut off and set to zero pressure. , Vent off all gas pressure in the keg by pulling a pressure relief valve on the keg.
Do not attach the keg connectors or coupler to a full, pressurized keg, as this may cause beer and gas to be released explosively from the keg. , Re-vent gas pressure from the keg if necessary. , Keep the gas turned off. , Make sure that the gas regulator is set to zero pressure and the regulator safety shutoff valve is closed, so that gas cannot escape.
Also make sure that the keg is sealed and ready to be pressurized. , Turn the main CO2 cylinder gas valve on, keeping the gas regulator off so that gas still cannot escape through the gas line.
Open the regulator shutoff and very very slowly adjust the regulator to about 12PSI, letting the gas enter the keg.
Listen for any hissing sounds that may indicate that gas is leaking from somewhere in the system (there should not be any leaks). , Do not drink this initial beer as it may contain sanitizer or cleanser.
The beer may be overly foamy.
This may mean that the keg is too warm, that the beer line is too short, that there is too much gas pressure, or that there is a gap of air in the beer line.
Inadequate gas pressure will result in air spaces in the beer line.
To adjust the pressure in the keg, shut off the gas and the relieve the pressure in the keg.
Then adjust the pressure in the keg using the gas regulator to achieve desired beer foam. , -
Step 3: Carefully read all instructions and warnings for all of the components.
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Step 4: Determine how the components should be placed in the refrigerator.
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Step 5: Choose a specific area of the refrigerator that can be safely drilled through in order to place the faucet shank.
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Step 6: Draw a circle or make a centered dot where you want to drill a hole in the refrigerator for the shank and faucet assembly.
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Step 7: Obtain a hole saw drill bit (generally 1 1/8"
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Step 8: 7/8" or 3/4") that will produce a hole that will neatly accommodate the faucet shank
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Step 9: and drill a hole.
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Step 10: Clean and sanitize the beer faucet
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Step 11: beer line
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Step 12: and other associated components.
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Step 13: Insert the beer faucet and shank assembly through the refrigerator
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Step 14: and secure using included hardware.
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Step 15: Securely attach the gas line to the regulator outlet and to the keg gas line "in" connector or coupler gas inlet.
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Step 16: Verify that the CO2 cylinder is filled
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Step 17: completely shut off
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Step 18: and properly attached to the gas regulator.
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Step 19: Obtain a chilled keg of beer (warm beer will result in overly foamy beer).
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Step 20: Connect the beer line to the keg.
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Step 21: Connect the gas line to the keg.
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Step 22: Make sure that all connections are secure
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Step 23: and that the beer tap handle is in the closed position.
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Step 24: Pressurize the keg for dispensing.
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Step 25: Try dispensing some beer from the faucet
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Step 26: and check for beer leaks.
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Step 27: Periodically check for gas and beer leaks
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Step 28: and be sure to check the gas pressure that is indicated by the regulator.
Detailed Guide
A kegerator is essentially a keg of beer that is kept cold in a refrigerator.
The refrigerator has a beer tap or faucet protruding from it, from which the beer is dispensed.
The beer is forced through the faucet from the keg by forcing carbon dioxide into the keg.
A small tank (cylinder) of carbon dioxide is used to supply the gas pressure, and maintain a specific pressure in the keg so that beer can be dispensed evenly at any time.
A regulator that is attached to the gas cylinder enables one to regulate the pressure.
There is vinyl "gas" tubing that goes from the gas cylinder and regulator to the "in" port of the keg.
From the "out" port of the keg there is the "beer" or "beverage" line, more vinyl tubing that goes to the beer faucet.
The components will be somewhat variable, depending on the type of beer that is to be dispensed, and number and types of kegs that will be on tap at one time.
The components generally include:
One refrigerator large enough to contain the type of keg(s) that will be utilized, beer faucet(s) and handle, faucet shank (long enough to protrude through refrigerator), wing nut with washer and tailpiece to attach the shank to the beverage tubing (if not already part of the shank), beverage and gas line connectors or coupler for type of keg that is to be used, fasteners such as worm clamps for the tubing, CO2 cylinder, CO2 gas regulator, and appropriately sized vinyl tubing.
The vinyl beer line should be five feet or more in length (to reduce beer foam), while the vinyl gas line should be about three feet or more in length, and be able to withstand high gas pressure.
Also consult the list of "Things You'll Need" below. , Make absolutely sure that you understand how to use and operate the CO2 gas cylinder and regulator.
Always keep gas cylinders secured and in an upright position.
CO2 cylinders are shipped empty, and must be filled locally.
See "Warnings" below. , This can be done by measuring the components as well as the inside of the refrigerator, and by fitting the components in the refrigerator.
Make sure that the kegerator door can be closed properly, that the components won't tip over, and that the beverage and gas lines won't be impeded or compressed.
Make sure that the shank will protrude adequately through the refrigerator (shanks are available in different lengths), and that the protruding end has enough room inside the refrigerator.
It is customary to place the gas hardware in the refrigerator with the keg, although this is not necessary.
However, an additional hole will have to be drilled for the gas line if the gas hardware is placed outside the refrigerator. , Refrigerators have internal components that must be completely avoided.
It is generally easiest and safest to drill a hole though the refrigerator door. , It is generally best to use a level and a ruler when determining where to drill the hole.
Remove the keg and gas hardware from the refrigerator.
Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged. , A larger drill bit such as 1 1/8" can be used to leave a little extra space if desired.
A neater and possibly stronger fit can be produced with a narrower drill bit.
A bit larger than 1 1/8" will probably produce a hole that is too large.
Be sure to check the dimensions of the shank before choosing a drill bit, and account for the thickness of the refrigerator.
The metal exterior of the refrigerator can provide some resistance when drilling, but the insulation and plastic that exists under the metal skin should be very easy to drill through.
The centered inner drill bit that protrudes from and is part of the hole saw should enable the drilling to start relatively easily, and will hold the drill bit in place while beginning to drill.
If the drill bit cannot readily penetrate the metal exterior, it may be necessary to start a smaller hole with a small regular drill bit.
Be sure to clean up all the debris that was produced from the hole drilling, and make sure that the internal components of the refrigerator were not damaged.
The refrigerator insulation can break apart easily and get on the shank (and possibly in the beer), so it may be a good idea to line the inside of the shank hole with something to prevent this, especially if the shank will be removed frequently.
Oftentimes it is not necessary to remove the shank, but certain cleaning methods may require the shank to be removed.
For example, cleanser and sanitizer can be simply run through the beer lines to clean a kegerator, or the beer lines (including faucet and shank) can be removed, broken down, and soaked in cleanser and sanitizer.
If the hole that has been drilled is found to be too small, it may be necessary to grind the metal layer of the refrigerator with a tool such as a Dremel to widen the opening.
If the hole that has been drilled is found to be too big, it should be possible to install an extra reinforcing plate on the inside of the refrigerator.
To do this, merely cut a piece of thin yet strong material that will cover and overlap the area inside of the refrigerator where the hole was drilled.
Then drill a smaller hole in the piece of material that will properly accommodate the shank and associated hardware.
Insert the shank through the refrigerator and through the rear reinforcing plate, and screw on the hardware that attaches the shank.
This can also be done to reinforce a properly fitted shank. , Anything that comes in contact with the beer should be clean and sanitized.
The gas lines and hardware should be clean and free of dust and debris that may end up in the beer. , Attach the beer line to the connector or coupler that attaches it to the keg, and attach the beer line to the faucet shank tailpiece.
If the shank does not have a unified tailpiece, then a wing nut, separate tailpiece, and neoprene washer will be needed.
The separate tailpiece is held within the wing nut and attached to the tubing with a worm clamp.
The wing nut rotates freely around the tailpiece.
The neoprene washer is ultimately sandwiched between the tailpiece and the end of the shank.
The wing nut holds the tailpiece against the shank.
Secure both ends of the tubing with worm clamps or similar hardware.
All beverage and gas lines must be completely secured so that beer and gas leaks do not result.
To keep the pressure balanced up to the tap (and not produce a mug full of foam), special "Beverage" tubing is used.
The beer line should be at least five feet in length when using 3/16" beverage tubing in order to pour a good pint. , The gas line should be about three feet or more in length. , The regulator must also be completely shut off and set to zero pressure. , Vent off all gas pressure in the keg by pulling a pressure relief valve on the keg.
Do not attach the keg connectors or coupler to a full, pressurized keg, as this may cause beer and gas to be released explosively from the keg. , Re-vent gas pressure from the keg if necessary. , Keep the gas turned off. , Make sure that the gas regulator is set to zero pressure and the regulator safety shutoff valve is closed, so that gas cannot escape.
Also make sure that the keg is sealed and ready to be pressurized. , Turn the main CO2 cylinder gas valve on, keeping the gas regulator off so that gas still cannot escape through the gas line.
Open the regulator shutoff and very very slowly adjust the regulator to about 12PSI, letting the gas enter the keg.
Listen for any hissing sounds that may indicate that gas is leaking from somewhere in the system (there should not be any leaks). , Do not drink this initial beer as it may contain sanitizer or cleanser.
The beer may be overly foamy.
This may mean that the keg is too warm, that the beer line is too short, that there is too much gas pressure, or that there is a gap of air in the beer line.
Inadequate gas pressure will result in air spaces in the beer line.
To adjust the pressure in the keg, shut off the gas and the relieve the pressure in the keg.
Then adjust the pressure in the keg using the gas regulator to achieve desired beer foam. ,
About the Author
Emily Ferguson
Specializes in breaking down complex hobbies topics into simple steps.
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