How to Build a Model
Take your model kit out of the box and compare the pieces to the instructions to make sure you have everything needed., Wash the parts., Cut the pieces off of the sprue tree with care., Paint small pieces while they are still attached to the sprue...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Take your model kit out of the box and compare the pieces to the instructions to make sure you have everything needed.
Kits do (infrequently) come from the factory with missing or damaged parts.
The time to return it to the store is before you begin assembling it! -
Step 2: Wash the parts.
Using an old toothbrush, some dish detergent and warm water, carefully wash the parts of the model while they are still on the parts trees.
Rinse the parts thoroughly and allow to dry completely. , Use flush cutting sprue nippers, an X-acto knife or a single-edged razor blade.
Do not cut too close to the part or you may leave a gouge where you cut it.
Use a No. 11 hobby blade to remove the rest of the sprue by shaving across the nub.
This is the time to remove any raised bumps caused by the molding process.
Use a smooth emery board, 400- grit wet-or-dry abrasive paper or lightly scrape the No. 11 blade at a 90 degree angle across the offending plastic nub until it has been smoothed away. , They are much easier to handle this way! , Glue and adhesives do not adhere well to paint, and may cause it to run. ,, Also, too much glue can actually melt parts of plastic and deform your model's surface.
It takes trial and error (and practice) to know what the right amount is.
If in doubt, err on the side of too little: you can always add more if needed, but too much glue will spoil your model. , Super glue takes a set almost instantly, whereas other adhesives and bonding agents can take longer.
Be prepared to hold the parts for a few moments while the glue sets up, or use rubber bands, spring-type clothes pins, or a hobby vise to clamp your work while the adhesive dries. , Apply the putty sparingly, smooth it with a moistened finger or tongue depressor (Popsicle stick).
Once it has cured, it may be sanded with 400- then 600-grit wet-or-dry paper.
Once painted, you won't know it's there. , If you forget to pick the part up, you will have newsprint on your part and you will then have to sand and paint again. , Other types of glue will either damage or fog the piece.
This type of glue can be used as a filler as well.
Simply apply to the gap with and an old paint brush then wipe away the excess with a damp paper towel or a damp cotton swab.
This works very well when filling a gap between clear sections and solid color parts. , -
Step 3: Cut the pieces off of the sprue tree with care.
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Step 4: Paint small pieces while they are still attached to the sprue.
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Step 5: Scrape paint off any edges which are to be glued.
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Step 6: Test fit the parts before gluing
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Step 7: making sure they fit together snugly
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Step 8: with few or no gaps.
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Step 9: Use the right amount of glue on each part or it will not adhere properly.
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Step 10: Apply glue or adhesive only after you have test fit the parts first to see if they fit.
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Step 11: If there are large gaps where the seams of your model are joined
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Step 12: you may need to fill them with body filler putty.
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Step 13: Use newspaper while painting
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Step 14: but try to avoid this paper when gluing.
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Step 15: Use 'white' or 'craft' type glue to attach clear sections.
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Step 16: Finished.
Detailed Guide
Kits do (infrequently) come from the factory with missing or damaged parts.
The time to return it to the store is before you begin assembling it!
Using an old toothbrush, some dish detergent and warm water, carefully wash the parts of the model while they are still on the parts trees.
Rinse the parts thoroughly and allow to dry completely. , Use flush cutting sprue nippers, an X-acto knife or a single-edged razor blade.
Do not cut too close to the part or you may leave a gouge where you cut it.
Use a No. 11 hobby blade to remove the rest of the sprue by shaving across the nub.
This is the time to remove any raised bumps caused by the molding process.
Use a smooth emery board, 400- grit wet-or-dry abrasive paper or lightly scrape the No. 11 blade at a 90 degree angle across the offending plastic nub until it has been smoothed away. , They are much easier to handle this way! , Glue and adhesives do not adhere well to paint, and may cause it to run. ,, Also, too much glue can actually melt parts of plastic and deform your model's surface.
It takes trial and error (and practice) to know what the right amount is.
If in doubt, err on the side of too little: you can always add more if needed, but too much glue will spoil your model. , Super glue takes a set almost instantly, whereas other adhesives and bonding agents can take longer.
Be prepared to hold the parts for a few moments while the glue sets up, or use rubber bands, spring-type clothes pins, or a hobby vise to clamp your work while the adhesive dries. , Apply the putty sparingly, smooth it with a moistened finger or tongue depressor (Popsicle stick).
Once it has cured, it may be sanded with 400- then 600-grit wet-or-dry paper.
Once painted, you won't know it's there. , If you forget to pick the part up, you will have newsprint on your part and you will then have to sand and paint again. , Other types of glue will either damage or fog the piece.
This type of glue can be used as a filler as well.
Simply apply to the gap with and an old paint brush then wipe away the excess with a damp paper towel or a damp cotton swab.
This works very well when filling a gap between clear sections and solid color parts. ,
About the Author
Diane Kennedy
Dedicated to helping readers learn new skills in practical skills and beyond.
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