How to Build a Water Hand Pump
Build the foot valve assembly., Build the plunger assembly., Identify how much connecting pipe is needed., Build the pump head assembly., Build the handle and lever arm., Protect the PVC pipe., Understand how the pump works.
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Build the foot valve assembly.
The purpose of the foot valve is to allow water into the cylinder without allowing it to fall back out. (The cylinder is the lower pipe section containing the foot valve and plunder assemblies.) It is composed of, from bottom to top: a. 2in cap (not shown) b. 2in pipe screen with drilled holes (about 9in long) c. 2in coupler d. 2x3/4 reducer e. 2x3/4 reducer with the lip filed out to allow the 3/4in pipe to slide all the way through. f. 2in coupler (not shown in assembled image) g. 3/4in pipe (about 4 in long) h. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter i. 3/4in brass check valve j. 2in pipe about 36in long (not shown).
It fits into coupler (f). -
Step 2: Build the plunger assembly.
The plunger serves two purposes.
First, it provides a seal with the cylinder to generate suction.
Second, it contains a second check valve to allow water in the upper cylinder. a. 3/4in threaded pipe extender.
Screws into bottom of check valve (d). b.
Spacers.
The purpose of the spacers is to keep the gasket rigid.
They should not contact the cylinder.
You can use a 2in hole saw to score a ring in each side, then use a 1-1/8in Forstner bit to bore out the inner hole.
The hole saw can be again used to finish the outer cut.
These can be made from wood or plastic. c.
Leather gasket.
Can also be made from rubber.
Carefully cut this to fit snugly in the cylinder and on the pipe extender.
When inserting the assembly in the cylinder to test the fit, first soften the leather with water.
Otherwise, you will trim it too small and need to start over. d. 3/4in brass check valve e. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter f. 3/4in pipe 6in long with drilled holes.
This allows water to enter the upper cylinder after passing through the check valve. g. 3/4x1/2in slip reducer h.
Rubber stopper.
Held in place by the 1/2in pipe (i).
Prevents water coming up the pipe (i). i. 1/2in pipe , Pipe is needed to connect the cylinder to a pump head and the plunger to a handle at the surface.
The amount of pipe depends on the depth of the static water level in the well.
From the top of the cylinder, you can reduce the pipe down to a 1-1/4in diameter pipe to save on cost and weight.
However, it does increase the force required to pull the water to the surface (hydraulic principles).
Before measuring the static water depth and well depth, first remove the well cap.
This will reveal a secondary cap and the electrical connections.
This cap is cemented to a pipe which connects to the pitless adapter (the device that holds the pump in place and connects the water from the pump to the line leading to the house below the frost level).
You do not need to remove this cap or lift the pump at this time, as you only need to measure the static water depth.
To measure the static water depth, tie a weight to some string or light rope.
It is difficult to hear or see when the weight enters the water.
Therefore, lower the weight down a few feet and bring it back up, feeling for water on the rope.
Continue lowering the rope a couple feet further each time, until the rope comes up wet.
Each time, mark the rope at the top of the well before pulling the rope out.
Measure the distance from the weight to highest mark on the rope.
This is the static water depth.
Measuring the total depth of the well is more of a challenge because it is difficult to know when you hit bottom (or the top of the pump).
Using fishing line may be helpful.
Nevertheless, the static water depth is the important measurement.
This indicates how much pipe (both the 1-1/4in outer pipe and the 1/2in inner pipe) is needed.
To cover the 15 feet (4.6 m), and have the cylinder well below the static water level, use 20 feet (6.1 m) of pipe.
The pipe will be connected with threaded couplers to aid in assembly and disassembly without cement.
One additional detail to mention here is to drill a small hole in the side of the 1-1/4in pipe a few feet below the ground level.
This will slowly drain water from the top of the pipe back into the well and thus prevent freeze damage. , The pump head diverts the water coming up from the well out to a spigot.
The 1/2in pipe from the plunger extends up to pump head and through the top where a handle is attached to operate the pump. a. 1-1/4x1/2in reducer.
Ream out the bore with a 7/8in Forstner bit to allow the 1/2in pipe to slide freely. b. 1-1/4x3/4in threaded T coupler. c. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter d. 3/4in pipe e. 3/4in 45° elbow f. 3/4in pipe g. 3/4x1/2in slip-male thread reducer (optional) h.
Brass female pipe, male hose adapter (optional) To prevent water seeping up through the 1-1/4x1/2in reducer (a) around the pipe handle a gasket (b) needs to be inserted.
A washer (c) holds the gasket tight to the reducer and a 3/4x1/2in reducer (d) (cut short and reamed out) is cemented into the reducer (a) to hold the washer and gasket in place. , At the top of the 1/2in pipe, a T handle can be added for direct manipulation of the pump.
A lever handle can also be attached to the pump head assembly if needed for deeper wells.
You might also add to your to-do list an alternative well cap that will accept the pump head assembly. , UV rays from the sun will make PVC pipe brittle and can weaken cemented joints.
Any exposed PVC pipe can be spray painted with an opaque paint to protect against this effect. , When the pump handle is pulled up, water is drawn in to the lower cylinder through the foot valve.
When the pump handle is pushed down the water is forced through the check valve above the plunger and into the upper cylinder.
When the pump is pulled up again, water is pulled in through the foot valve, and also the water that was pushed into the upper cylinder in the previous cycle is pulled up to the surface. -
Step 3: Identify how much connecting pipe is needed.
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Step 4: Build the pump head assembly.
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Step 5: Build the handle and lever arm.
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Step 6: Protect the PVC pipe.
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Step 7: Understand how the pump works.
Detailed Guide
The purpose of the foot valve is to allow water into the cylinder without allowing it to fall back out. (The cylinder is the lower pipe section containing the foot valve and plunder assemblies.) It is composed of, from bottom to top: a. 2in cap (not shown) b. 2in pipe screen with drilled holes (about 9in long) c. 2in coupler d. 2x3/4 reducer e. 2x3/4 reducer with the lip filed out to allow the 3/4in pipe to slide all the way through. f. 2in coupler (not shown in assembled image) g. 3/4in pipe (about 4 in long) h. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter i. 3/4in brass check valve j. 2in pipe about 36in long (not shown).
It fits into coupler (f).
The plunger serves two purposes.
First, it provides a seal with the cylinder to generate suction.
Second, it contains a second check valve to allow water in the upper cylinder. a. 3/4in threaded pipe extender.
Screws into bottom of check valve (d). b.
Spacers.
The purpose of the spacers is to keep the gasket rigid.
They should not contact the cylinder.
You can use a 2in hole saw to score a ring in each side, then use a 1-1/8in Forstner bit to bore out the inner hole.
The hole saw can be again used to finish the outer cut.
These can be made from wood or plastic. c.
Leather gasket.
Can also be made from rubber.
Carefully cut this to fit snugly in the cylinder and on the pipe extender.
When inserting the assembly in the cylinder to test the fit, first soften the leather with water.
Otherwise, you will trim it too small and need to start over. d. 3/4in brass check valve e. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter f. 3/4in pipe 6in long with drilled holes.
This allows water to enter the upper cylinder after passing through the check valve. g. 3/4x1/2in slip reducer h.
Rubber stopper.
Held in place by the 1/2in pipe (i).
Prevents water coming up the pipe (i). i. 1/2in pipe , Pipe is needed to connect the cylinder to a pump head and the plunger to a handle at the surface.
The amount of pipe depends on the depth of the static water level in the well.
From the top of the cylinder, you can reduce the pipe down to a 1-1/4in diameter pipe to save on cost and weight.
However, it does increase the force required to pull the water to the surface (hydraulic principles).
Before measuring the static water depth and well depth, first remove the well cap.
This will reveal a secondary cap and the electrical connections.
This cap is cemented to a pipe which connects to the pitless adapter (the device that holds the pump in place and connects the water from the pump to the line leading to the house below the frost level).
You do not need to remove this cap or lift the pump at this time, as you only need to measure the static water depth.
To measure the static water depth, tie a weight to some string or light rope.
It is difficult to hear or see when the weight enters the water.
Therefore, lower the weight down a few feet and bring it back up, feeling for water on the rope.
Continue lowering the rope a couple feet further each time, until the rope comes up wet.
Each time, mark the rope at the top of the well before pulling the rope out.
Measure the distance from the weight to highest mark on the rope.
This is the static water depth.
Measuring the total depth of the well is more of a challenge because it is difficult to know when you hit bottom (or the top of the pump).
Using fishing line may be helpful.
Nevertheless, the static water depth is the important measurement.
This indicates how much pipe (both the 1-1/4in outer pipe and the 1/2in inner pipe) is needed.
To cover the 15 feet (4.6 m), and have the cylinder well below the static water level, use 20 feet (6.1 m) of pipe.
The pipe will be connected with threaded couplers to aid in assembly and disassembly without cement.
One additional detail to mention here is to drill a small hole in the side of the 1-1/4in pipe a few feet below the ground level.
This will slowly drain water from the top of the pipe back into the well and thus prevent freeze damage. , The pump head diverts the water coming up from the well out to a spigot.
The 1/2in pipe from the plunger extends up to pump head and through the top where a handle is attached to operate the pump. a. 1-1/4x1/2in reducer.
Ream out the bore with a 7/8in Forstner bit to allow the 1/2in pipe to slide freely. b. 1-1/4x3/4in threaded T coupler. c. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter d. 3/4in pipe e. 3/4in 45° elbow f. 3/4in pipe g. 3/4x1/2in slip-male thread reducer (optional) h.
Brass female pipe, male hose adapter (optional) To prevent water seeping up through the 1-1/4x1/2in reducer (a) around the pipe handle a gasket (b) needs to be inserted.
A washer (c) holds the gasket tight to the reducer and a 3/4x1/2in reducer (d) (cut short and reamed out) is cemented into the reducer (a) to hold the washer and gasket in place. , At the top of the 1/2in pipe, a T handle can be added for direct manipulation of the pump.
A lever handle can also be attached to the pump head assembly if needed for deeper wells.
You might also add to your to-do list an alternative well cap that will accept the pump head assembly. , UV rays from the sun will make PVC pipe brittle and can weaken cemented joints.
Any exposed PVC pipe can be spray painted with an opaque paint to protect against this effect. , When the pump handle is pulled up, water is drawn in to the lower cylinder through the foot valve.
When the pump handle is pushed down the water is forced through the check valve above the plunger and into the upper cylinder.
When the pump is pulled up again, water is pulled in through the foot valve, and also the water that was pushed into the upper cylinder in the previous cycle is pulled up to the surface.
About the Author
Jerry Ortiz
Brings years of experience writing about practical skills and related subjects.
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