How to Build a Wooden Block Planter Box
Set up a work table., Draw or scribe a circle on the work surface., Cut blocks of wood 3/4 inches wide and thick, 4 inches long., Lay a ring of blocks around the inside of the circle you scribed on your work table., Put a drop of quality wood glue...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Set up a work table.
You will need a flat work surface about three feet square, a piece of 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood on saw horse will work fine. -
Step 2: Draw or scribe a circle on the work surface.
The planter described in the steps is about 24 inches around, but you can make it smaller or larger if you want.
You may need to adjust the size of the blocks you cut (see next step) for radically different sizes. , Cedar, juniper, cypress, or other weather resistant woods are good choices, but you can use pine or other softwoods (or hardwoods, although they may split more easily). Shape them if desired, sanding and rounding the edges, depending on how finished you want the final product to be. , Place them inside the line, allowing about 1 1⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) of space between the ends of them. The exact spacing will probably need tweaking as your complete the circumference of this circle. , You can work sections if the glue is subject to drying quickly. , As you progress around the circle, use a finish nailer with 1 1/8 18 gauge brads to tack the ends of the second layer to the first layer. , You will not go all the way around this time, stop the row one block back from an end point ( opposite the side you are working from works best). , You may decide to take a break after a while, to allow the glue between blocks to set so the whole thing will be more stable. , Here, you will need to be careful with your glue placement at nailing, since overflowing glue or nails that miss the underlying block will have to be cleaned up later. You should begin to see the edges start to slope inward, forming the bowl of the basket. , Now, you will need to invert the whole assembly, so prepare some stacks of blocks to support the full round (bottom, but soon to be top of your structure. , Now, all you have to do is repeat the process you started on the first side.Once each side is symmetrical you are done, let the glue cure before standing the planter box up. , -
Step 3: Cut blocks of wood 3/4 inches wide and thick
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Step 4: 4 inches long.
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Step 5: Lay a ring of blocks around the inside of the circle you scribed on your work table.
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Step 6: Put a drop of quality wood glue (think Tight-Bond 3 or Liquid Nails) on each end of each block.
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Step 7: Place another layer of blocks on the first
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Step 8: staggering them to center on the joints of the first row
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Step 9: and keeping the edges in line.
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Step 10: Put a drop of glue on each end of the second row of blocks
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Step 11: and start your third row the same way you started the second row (layer) of blocks.
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Step 12: Run two or three more rows the same way you ran the previous ones
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Step 13: leaving a block out with each subsequent row.
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Step 14: Keep adding rows
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Step 15: but allow each row to slide inward from the previous row about 1/3 the width of your block.
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Step 16: Continue running rows as described earlier until there are only three or four blocks left in the top row.
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Step 17: Flip the whole thing over
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Step 18: being careful to keep it supported
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Step 19: and lay it flat on your work surface.
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Step 20: Stand the planter box up
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Step 21: line the bottom with plastic
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Step 22: fill it with potting soil
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Step 23: and add the plant of your choice.
Detailed Guide
You will need a flat work surface about three feet square, a piece of 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) plywood on saw horse will work fine.
The planter described in the steps is about 24 inches around, but you can make it smaller or larger if you want.
You may need to adjust the size of the blocks you cut (see next step) for radically different sizes. , Cedar, juniper, cypress, or other weather resistant woods are good choices, but you can use pine or other softwoods (or hardwoods, although they may split more easily). Shape them if desired, sanding and rounding the edges, depending on how finished you want the final product to be. , Place them inside the line, allowing about 1 1⁄2 inches (3.8 cm) of space between the ends of them. The exact spacing will probably need tweaking as your complete the circumference of this circle. , You can work sections if the glue is subject to drying quickly. , As you progress around the circle, use a finish nailer with 1 1/8 18 gauge brads to tack the ends of the second layer to the first layer. , You will not go all the way around this time, stop the row one block back from an end point ( opposite the side you are working from works best). , You may decide to take a break after a while, to allow the glue between blocks to set so the whole thing will be more stable. , Here, you will need to be careful with your glue placement at nailing, since overflowing glue or nails that miss the underlying block will have to be cleaned up later. You should begin to see the edges start to slope inward, forming the bowl of the basket. , Now, you will need to invert the whole assembly, so prepare some stacks of blocks to support the full round (bottom, but soon to be top of your structure. , Now, all you have to do is repeat the process you started on the first side.Once each side is symmetrical you are done, let the glue cure before standing the planter box up. ,
About the Author
Andrew Rogers
Creates helpful guides on organization to inspire and educate readers.
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