How to Install a Ceiling Fan

Turn off the power to the light you're replacing (if applicable) at the circuit breaker or fuse panel., If there is no central light fixture, determine the center of the room, using one of the below techniques., Obtain a FAN RATED BOX from home...

59 Steps 7 min read Advanced

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Turn off the power to the light you're replacing (if applicable) at the circuit breaker or fuse panel.

    Once this is done, only then should you remove the light fixture.

    This can be tested by flipping wall switches or using a circuit tester on the actual light fixture.

    If there is a pre-existing fixture, remove it and disconnect the wiring.

    A fan presents a dynamic physical load that is usually much heavier than typical ceiling fixtures that present a static load.

    Because of these two qualities, if a fan rated box is not already present, the old box will need to be replaced with one that is. , Fasten the new fan rated junction box directly to the nearest joist.

    Snap diagonal chalk lines from opposite corners of the room.

    The lines will cross in the exact center of the room. (Much easier.) Use a tape measure to measure the walls, and find the halfway points. (If you really can't get hold of a chalk line.) , It will likely be best to buy the old work (not new construction) style if you do not have access to the ceiling from above.

    There are two types of old work boxes; one fan rated box is designed to straddle an existing joist; this style can be easier to install, but requires that you find the joist rather than avoid it.

    The other type has an adjustable bar that expands to span between two joists, it can be a little more involved to install but allows more mounting location choices.

    Either type works equally well.
  2. Step 2: If there is no central light fixture

    See the tips section below for some ideas for a power source.

    Adjust this location as needed.

    Next, cut a hole by hand with a sheetrock saw; just large enough to feel around with your fingers to check for potential obstructions for the box.

    This small opening will make patching easier if it is an unsuitable location. , trace the fan rated junction box to be installed on the ceiling and cut it out with the sheetrock saw. , Regardless of the location, if your power source is via #12 wires, you must use #12-2 or #12-3 instead of #14-2 or #14-3 where indicated below with " * " (A general rule is to never connect different size wires together). , If your fan has a wireless remote, you may wish to feed directly from a 120 volt outlet plug.

    Better yet, install a new switch box and run a wire cable from the outlet and fan, wire nut the white wires together and the ground wires (green or bare) together with a wire connector and then connect the two black wires that would connect to the switch together
    - that would in turn feed the fan.

    If you ever decide to remove the fan and replace with a light fixture, there will be a wall switch to control it. , B) power the fan and/or light on and off with an RF remote included with the fan or purchased separately. ,,,, All fans vibrate when running.

    Your mount must be able to withstand this constant stress, this why the National Electrical Code (NEC) mandates the use of fan rated boxes.

    Many people have been injured due to mount failure prior to this NEC change.

    Use of fan rated boxes significantly reduces this risk. , When mounting to a beamed or angled ceiling, some fans require specific mounts for pitch that may or may not be included with the fan.

    Most fans however, include a universal mount that will support a fan from "normal" horizontal through most common roof pitch angles.

    Select the one that best fits the application.

    Down rod extensions may be added to lower the fan to the desired level. ,, Attach the wires to the fan by connecting switch cable white to fan white, switch cable bare (or green) to fan ground / green, switch cable black to fan black and switch cable red to fan blue. , The green screw or green wire on each switch should be connected to the ground wire bundle.

    Wirenut this connection and push towards the back of the box.

    Connect the power source cable white to fan cable white, wirenut and push towards the back of the box.

    With switches oriented to read ON and OFF (single pole switches), connect a 6–8 inch (15.2–20.3 cm) black wire power source cable black (or hot) to the bottom screw on each switch.

    Connect the fan cable red to the top screw on switch #1, and fan cable black to the top screw on switch #2.

    If all is wired correctly, switch #1 will operate the light & switch #2 will operate the fan.

    If you want to vary fan speed from the switch box, you should substitute a fan speed controller for switch #2.

    A dimmer may be used in place of switch #1 to dim the lights. , Connect the power source cable black (hot) to the bottom screw of the switch.

    If you wish to control the light via wall switch: connect the fan cable black to the power source and the fan cable red to the switch, since power is always available to the fan, it can be operated independently of the switch position by the pull chain and the light will operated by the wall switch.

    Reverse the wire connections to the switch and power source to control the fan by the switch and light by the pull chain. , Wire the remote receiver as per the instructions included with it
    - most likely power source color to remote input color (black to black, white to white) and fan / light color to remote output color (black to black, white to white, blue to blue). , Keep extra wiring out of the way by pushing it into the electrical box.

    While working on the fan wiring, use the “wiring hook" that is provided to hang the fan. , Most fan blades have a two-pronged attachment, using screws that come through holes in the blades and into the prongs.

    These need to be drawn up securely, but not so tightly that the threads are damaged or the laminated blade material is crushed.On many fans you'll find the prongs also need to be mounted to the motor housing.

    If this is the case, mount them before the prongs are mounted to the blades themselves. ,,, To do this:
    Fasten each blade to the speed ring, then attach the assembled ring to the motor unit using rubber grommets and fastening screws.

    Attach the cover over the speed ring and install the decorative cover plate. , If no lock washers are supplied, you should purchase some as they prevent fan vibrations from loosening the screws over time.

    The hanger bracket may accept either a half-ball hanger or a hook-type hanger, depending on your fan.

    Either way, the hanger is carefully slipped into the bracket.

    Twist the half ball type hanger until the hanger bracket's tab aligns with the groove in the ball hanger. , If you have high ceilings, you may also want to attach a hanger pipe. ,, Be sure to connect the black house wires to the black fan wires, and the white house wires to the white fan wires.

    Connect the ground wires from the box, the fan and the power supply together with a wire nut.

    Tuck all wires inside the canopy and secure the canopy to the mounting bracket. ,, Turn the power back on and make sure the connections are good
    - remember to have both the wall switch and the pull-cord switch on the fan in the "On" position. , With the cap removed, you'll see a bundle of wires.

    Of these wires, two will be labeled for use with the light kit.

    One will be white (neutral) and the other will be black, red or blue (hot).

    Some fans and light kits make use of a plug and jack instead of individual wires. , The adapter serves as a reducing ring for the lamp housing.

    Attach the adapter ring with the screws provided. , Join the two white wires with a wire connector and the two black, red or blue wires with a wire connector to the remaining labeled wire bracket.

    If the fan and light have a plug and jack for a connection, simply join them by inserting the plug into the jack.

    Fasten the light kit to the fan with the screws provided. , Check for wobbling.
  3. Step 3: determine the center of the room

  4. Step 4: using one of the below techniques.

  5. Step 5: Obtain a FAN RATED BOX from home supply or electrical supply store.

  6. Step 6: After determining where you want to install the fan

  7. Step 7: assess your ability to get power to it.

  8. Step 8: After determining there are no obstructions

  9. Step 9: (wires

  10. Step 10: framing members

  11. Step 11: If installing in a kitchen or dining room

  12. Step 12: and the existing power source you choose to utilize may be on larger

  13. Step 13: #12 wire.

  14. Step 14: Fish a #14-2* or #14-3* cable from a switch box that has BOTH a #14* unswitched 120 volt hot wire AND neutral wire to the fan location.

  15. Step 15: Use #14-2* cable if you want to either: A) power the fan (and light if applicable) on and off from one switch.

  16. Step 16: Use #14-3* if you want to: C) power the fan independently from the light by two switches in the same box.

  17. Step 17: Running #14-3* provides the ability to do A

  18. Step 18: or C wiring methods mentioned above

  19. Step 19: and as such provides the greatest flexibility with little added cost.

  20. Step 20: Using appropriate connectors where needed

  21. Step 21: route the cable into the fan box through the cable entry openings.

  22. Step 22: Secure the fan rated junction box following the manufacturer's instructions.

  23. Step 23: Determine if a special mount is required.

  24. Step 24: At the fan box: If you used #14-2 or #12-2

  25. Step 25: attach the wires to the fan by following the standard color coding scheme: switch cable white to fan white

  26. Step 26: switch cable bare (or green) to fan ground / green

  27. Step 27: switch cable black to fan black (AND fan blue if present).

  28. Step 28: At the fan box: If you opted for the #14-3 or #12-3 feed

  29. Step 29: you will have a switch cable black

  30. Step 30: white and bare (or green).

  31. Step 31: At the switch box: If using two wall switches or controls in the same box

  32. Step 32: all grounds (bare & green wires) connect together.

  33. Step 33: At the switch box: If using one wall switch

  34. Step 34: the wiring for the whites and grounds are the same as above.

  35. Step 35: If using a remote

  36. Step 36: connect the fan black and white wires directly to a power source that is always on (outlet or line side of a switch).

  37. Step 37: Cover each connection with a wire nut.

  38. Step 38: Follow the specific instructions of the manufacturer first.

  39. Step 39: Once you start mounting the blade/bracket assemblies to the fan motor

  40. Step 40: you may need 3 or 4 hands as it can be an awkward job.

  41. Step 41: The manufacturer’s instructions may say otherwise

  42. Step 42: but if the fan blades are less than a screwdriver's length away from the ceiling

  43. Step 43: it may be best to install the blades before hanging the fan.

  44. Step 44: Some fans use a "speed ring" which allows you to assemble the blades on the floor and then attach them to the motor after it has been installed on the ceiling.

  45. Step 45: Install the hanger bracket on the box with screws and lock washers.

  46. Step 46: Attach the fan canopy to the fan motor housing by screwing the mounting ring in place.

  47. Step 47: Hang the assembled motor unit from the two hooks on the mounting bracket.

  48. Step 48: Reconnect the wires

  49. Step 49: starting with the ground wire.

  50. Step 50: Slip the ceiling cover up to its full height and tighten it in place.

  51. Step 51: Attach the fan motor to the mounting bracket with the provided screws.

  52. Step 52: To access the wiring that powers the light

  53. Step 53: loosen the screws that hold the cap on the fan's switch housing bracket on the bottom.

  54. Step 54: Before wiring the lamp

  55. Step 55: however

  56. Step 56: install the adapter ring included with the fan kit bracket.

  57. Step 57: Pull the two labeled wires through the adapter ring

  58. Step 58: lift the lamp and make the wiring connections.

  59. Step 59: Power up and test your connection.

Detailed Guide

Once this is done, only then should you remove the light fixture.

This can be tested by flipping wall switches or using a circuit tester on the actual light fixture.

If there is a pre-existing fixture, remove it and disconnect the wiring.

A fan presents a dynamic physical load that is usually much heavier than typical ceiling fixtures that present a static load.

Because of these two qualities, if a fan rated box is not already present, the old box will need to be replaced with one that is. , Fasten the new fan rated junction box directly to the nearest joist.

Snap diagonal chalk lines from opposite corners of the room.

The lines will cross in the exact center of the room. (Much easier.) Use a tape measure to measure the walls, and find the halfway points. (If you really can't get hold of a chalk line.) , It will likely be best to buy the old work (not new construction) style if you do not have access to the ceiling from above.

There are two types of old work boxes; one fan rated box is designed to straddle an existing joist; this style can be easier to install, but requires that you find the joist rather than avoid it.

The other type has an adjustable bar that expands to span between two joists, it can be a little more involved to install but allows more mounting location choices.

Either type works equally well.

See the tips section below for some ideas for a power source.

Adjust this location as needed.

Next, cut a hole by hand with a sheetrock saw; just large enough to feel around with your fingers to check for potential obstructions for the box.

This small opening will make patching easier if it is an unsuitable location. , trace the fan rated junction box to be installed on the ceiling and cut it out with the sheetrock saw. , Regardless of the location, if your power source is via #12 wires, you must use #12-2 or #12-3 instead of #14-2 or #14-3 where indicated below with " * " (A general rule is to never connect different size wires together). , If your fan has a wireless remote, you may wish to feed directly from a 120 volt outlet plug.

Better yet, install a new switch box and run a wire cable from the outlet and fan, wire nut the white wires together and the ground wires (green or bare) together with a wire connector and then connect the two black wires that would connect to the switch together
- that would in turn feed the fan.

If you ever decide to remove the fan and replace with a light fixture, there will be a wall switch to control it. , B) power the fan and/or light on and off with an RF remote included with the fan or purchased separately. ,,,, All fans vibrate when running.

Your mount must be able to withstand this constant stress, this why the National Electrical Code (NEC) mandates the use of fan rated boxes.

Many people have been injured due to mount failure prior to this NEC change.

Use of fan rated boxes significantly reduces this risk. , When mounting to a beamed or angled ceiling, some fans require specific mounts for pitch that may or may not be included with the fan.

Most fans however, include a universal mount that will support a fan from "normal" horizontal through most common roof pitch angles.

Select the one that best fits the application.

Down rod extensions may be added to lower the fan to the desired level. ,, Attach the wires to the fan by connecting switch cable white to fan white, switch cable bare (or green) to fan ground / green, switch cable black to fan black and switch cable red to fan blue. , The green screw or green wire on each switch should be connected to the ground wire bundle.

Wirenut this connection and push towards the back of the box.

Connect the power source cable white to fan cable white, wirenut and push towards the back of the box.

With switches oriented to read ON and OFF (single pole switches), connect a 6–8 inch (15.2–20.3 cm) black wire power source cable black (or hot) to the bottom screw on each switch.

Connect the fan cable red to the top screw on switch #1, and fan cable black to the top screw on switch #2.

If all is wired correctly, switch #1 will operate the light & switch #2 will operate the fan.

If you want to vary fan speed from the switch box, you should substitute a fan speed controller for switch #2.

A dimmer may be used in place of switch #1 to dim the lights. , Connect the power source cable black (hot) to the bottom screw of the switch.

If you wish to control the light via wall switch: connect the fan cable black to the power source and the fan cable red to the switch, since power is always available to the fan, it can be operated independently of the switch position by the pull chain and the light will operated by the wall switch.

Reverse the wire connections to the switch and power source to control the fan by the switch and light by the pull chain. , Wire the remote receiver as per the instructions included with it
- most likely power source color to remote input color (black to black, white to white) and fan / light color to remote output color (black to black, white to white, blue to blue). , Keep extra wiring out of the way by pushing it into the electrical box.

While working on the fan wiring, use the “wiring hook" that is provided to hang the fan. , Most fan blades have a two-pronged attachment, using screws that come through holes in the blades and into the prongs.

These need to be drawn up securely, but not so tightly that the threads are damaged or the laminated blade material is crushed.On many fans you'll find the prongs also need to be mounted to the motor housing.

If this is the case, mount them before the prongs are mounted to the blades themselves. ,,, To do this:
Fasten each blade to the speed ring, then attach the assembled ring to the motor unit using rubber grommets and fastening screws.

Attach the cover over the speed ring and install the decorative cover plate. , If no lock washers are supplied, you should purchase some as they prevent fan vibrations from loosening the screws over time.

The hanger bracket may accept either a half-ball hanger or a hook-type hanger, depending on your fan.

Either way, the hanger is carefully slipped into the bracket.

Twist the half ball type hanger until the hanger bracket's tab aligns with the groove in the ball hanger. , If you have high ceilings, you may also want to attach a hanger pipe. ,, Be sure to connect the black house wires to the black fan wires, and the white house wires to the white fan wires.

Connect the ground wires from the box, the fan and the power supply together with a wire nut.

Tuck all wires inside the canopy and secure the canopy to the mounting bracket. ,, Turn the power back on and make sure the connections are good
- remember to have both the wall switch and the pull-cord switch on the fan in the "On" position. , With the cap removed, you'll see a bundle of wires.

Of these wires, two will be labeled for use with the light kit.

One will be white (neutral) and the other will be black, red or blue (hot).

Some fans and light kits make use of a plug and jack instead of individual wires. , The adapter serves as a reducing ring for the lamp housing.

Attach the adapter ring with the screws provided. , Join the two white wires with a wire connector and the two black, red or blue wires with a wire connector to the remaining labeled wire bracket.

If the fan and light have a plug and jack for a connection, simply join them by inserting the plug into the jack.

Fasten the light kit to the fan with the screws provided. , Check for wobbling.

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Laura Torres

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