How to Install a New Belt Tensioner With Pulley for Serpentine Belt on Plymouth Voyager V6 Mid 1990 Early 2000 Years
Prepare by: setting the parking gear/brake, and blocking rear wheels., Remove the belt, pivoting the strong tensioner, releasing tension by pulling forward on the wrench (clockwise).
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Prepare by: setting the parking gear/brake
Raise the hood, allow the engine to cool.Caution: disconnect the battery for safety, avoiding someone turning the starter by mistake.
Shows tight access to belts because of hoses, tubing... pretty hard to see belts and nuts, etc.
Find a diagram of the belt routing, sometimes on a sticker in the engine compartment, or you can draw one or get one in a book, because it may be tricky getting it back on, routed correctly. -
Step 2: and blocking rear wheels.
There is not enough space for using a regular ratchet or break-over tool with regular shallow socket.
Possibly, try a box end wrench/or combination wrench, with a pipe "cheater handle" for more leverage.
Or, ask at the parts store about the "rental tool kit"
to get the long, thin handled tool, with a very shallow 15mm (19/32 inch) socket, or possibly using a 15mm "crow-foot".Caution: avoid serious finger injury from pinching between a pulley/or such and the tension belt.
Let off tension carefully and gradually: the spring can throw the tool or swing it with some really quick force, if released under tension!Do not cut the belt to remove it! Sudden release is dangerous and may do damage.
Consider trying a new belt, if you have not done so, before a new tensioner.
The belt coming off suddenly in rain/puddles may have damaged the tensioner and/or the belt.
Remove the pulley from the tensioner, removing the pulley bolt (counterclockwise); save the existing pulley, washer and bolt to reuse, in case your new tensioner comes without a pulley.
Jack up your car
-- carefully, with jack on a solid surface, such as concrete pad or large stepping stone; jack up the car enough to get under the car with a little wiggle room. (You may protect the under car metal where the jack is placed with a 2X4 inch or 2X6 inch, short piece of a wooden stud or joist lumber.)Preferably use steel jack stands, on a solid base; avoid the danger of using heavy concrete blocks
-- and never use light, "cinder" building blocks, or odd-and-ends of stacked materials. -
Step 3: Remove the belt
-
Step 4: pivoting the strong tensioner
-
Step 5: releasing tension by pulling forward on the wrench (clockwise).
Detailed Guide
Raise the hood, allow the engine to cool.Caution: disconnect the battery for safety, avoiding someone turning the starter by mistake.
Shows tight access to belts because of hoses, tubing... pretty hard to see belts and nuts, etc.
Find a diagram of the belt routing, sometimes on a sticker in the engine compartment, or you can draw one or get one in a book, because it may be tricky getting it back on, routed correctly.
There is not enough space for using a regular ratchet or break-over tool with regular shallow socket.
Possibly, try a box end wrench/or combination wrench, with a pipe "cheater handle" for more leverage.
Or, ask at the parts store about the "rental tool kit"
to get the long, thin handled tool, with a very shallow 15mm (19/32 inch) socket, or possibly using a 15mm "crow-foot".Caution: avoid serious finger injury from pinching between a pulley/or such and the tension belt.
Let off tension carefully and gradually: the spring can throw the tool or swing it with some really quick force, if released under tension!Do not cut the belt to remove it! Sudden release is dangerous and may do damage.
Consider trying a new belt, if you have not done so, before a new tensioner.
The belt coming off suddenly in rain/puddles may have damaged the tensioner and/or the belt.
Remove the pulley from the tensioner, removing the pulley bolt (counterclockwise); save the existing pulley, washer and bolt to reuse, in case your new tensioner comes without a pulley.
Jack up your car
-- carefully, with jack on a solid surface, such as concrete pad or large stepping stone; jack up the car enough to get under the car with a little wiggle room. (You may protect the under car metal where the jack is placed with a 2X4 inch or 2X6 inch, short piece of a wooden stud or joist lumber.)Preferably use steel jack stands, on a solid base; avoid the danger of using heavy concrete blocks
-- and never use light, "cinder" building blocks, or odd-and-ends of stacked materials.
About the Author
Michael Powell
Creates helpful guides on crafts to inspire and educate readers.
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