How to Install Deck Piers
Before you start this (or any other) digging project, call 811, A new, federally-mandated national "Call Before You Dig" number., Be careful to center the hole on the position for the pier., This is the completed hole., Fill the bottom with about...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Before you start this (or any other) digging project
811 was created to help protect people from unintentionally hitting underground utility lines while working on digging projects. -
Step 2: call 811
Specification for distance between piers can be found in most books about deck construction.
These holes are one foot square and one foot deep.
The existing ground around the hole should be undisturbed as it provides the lateral support for the post.
Poor positioning of the hole will result in a larger hole and less support. <br , Note the sides are vertical and the bottom is flat. , This will allow you to create a flat level surface to place the paver on.
It also absorbs some of the expansion and contraction that characterizes some soils. , This is important to prevent the weight of the deck from pushing the piers down and creating sags in the deck. , Then check the level in both directions on the posts top.
You may also use a small 12" level on the paver.
If it is not level, add more gravel or sand and recompact. , This deck is attached to a retaining wall and a ledger board is the basis for the level.
Position the pier and strike a line on the pier level with the top of the ledger. , This assures a square cut that allows the beam to rest more completely on the end of the pier.
These piers are 4" pressure treated peeler cores.
You could also use pressure treated 4"x 4" posts. ,, Use the same points for every pier.
Don't measure from pier to pier.
If one pier is off, you will multiply the error. , This will allow you to relocate the pier if it is bumped or move accidentally. , Hold the pier to prevent the dirt from moving it off it proper location. , The dirt should compact to at least 3 inches (7.6Â cm), and the pier should be stable enough to stand on its own. , You should have more dirt that the remaining space in the hole because of pier, paver, and gravel. ,, -
Step 3: federally-mandated national "Call Before You Dig" number.
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Step 4: Be careful to center the hole on the position for the pier.
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Step 5: This is the completed hole.
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Step 6: Fill the bottom with about one inch of gravel
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Step 7: sand or pea gravel.
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Step 8: Compact the gravel at the bottom of the hole.
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Step 9: Place the paver in the bottom of the hole and check for level by placing a post with square cut ends on the paver.
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Step 10: Once the paver is level in all directions it is time to determine the pier length.
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Step 11: Use a radial
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Step 12: or chop saw to cut the piers to length.
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Step 13: Once the pier is cut to length recheck the height by laying the level on the ledger and the top of the pier.
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Step 14: Locate the pier by measuring from two known points.
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Step 15: Once you have the exact location
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Step 16: mark the bottom of the pier with a felt pen on the paver.
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Step 17: Carefully fill the hole with loose dirt until it is 4 inches (10.2Â cm) deep in the entire hole.
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Step 18: Carefully tamp the dirt with another pier or post while holding onto the pier to prevent it from moving.
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Step 19: Fill the remaining dirt 4 inches (10.2Â cm) at a time and compact.
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Step 20: Use the extra dirt to create a sloped cap around the pier to discourage water from collecting near the pier.
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Step 21: Your efforts should result in a level aligned resting place for the beam.
Detailed Guide
811 was created to help protect people from unintentionally hitting underground utility lines while working on digging projects.
Specification for distance between piers can be found in most books about deck construction.
These holes are one foot square and one foot deep.
The existing ground around the hole should be undisturbed as it provides the lateral support for the post.
Poor positioning of the hole will result in a larger hole and less support. <br , Note the sides are vertical and the bottom is flat. , This will allow you to create a flat level surface to place the paver on.
It also absorbs some of the expansion and contraction that characterizes some soils. , This is important to prevent the weight of the deck from pushing the piers down and creating sags in the deck. , Then check the level in both directions on the posts top.
You may also use a small 12" level on the paver.
If it is not level, add more gravel or sand and recompact. , This deck is attached to a retaining wall and a ledger board is the basis for the level.
Position the pier and strike a line on the pier level with the top of the ledger. , This assures a square cut that allows the beam to rest more completely on the end of the pier.
These piers are 4" pressure treated peeler cores.
You could also use pressure treated 4"x 4" posts. ,, Use the same points for every pier.
Don't measure from pier to pier.
If one pier is off, you will multiply the error. , This will allow you to relocate the pier if it is bumped or move accidentally. , Hold the pier to prevent the dirt from moving it off it proper location. , The dirt should compact to at least 3 inches (7.6Â cm), and the pier should be stable enough to stand on its own. , You should have more dirt that the remaining space in the hole because of pier, paver, and gravel. ,,
About the Author
Thomas Gray
A passionate writer with expertise in creative arts topics. Loves sharing practical knowledge.
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