How to Install Marble Floor Tile
Wear gloves, eye protection and a facemask., Remove any existing tiles., Clean the floor surface you plan to tile and allow it to dry., Use a long level to make sure the floor area is level., Inspect the tiles., Measure the length and width of the...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Wear gloves
These will protect your hands, eyes and lungs as you install your marble tiles. -
Step 2: eye protection and a facemask.
If you are installing the marble on a floor that is already tiled then you must remove the old tiles first.
Ceramic tiles can be smashed with a hammer and then removed.
Vinyl tiles should be ripped up with a pry bar., Before installing any tiles you will want to make sure that the floor surface beneath the tiles is thoroughly cleaned and dried. , Marble is a very soft tile and can be particularly susceptible to cracking if it is not installed on a level surface.
Use the longest level possible to make sure your floor is level.
You can try sanding down any bumps that raise the floor or filling in any depressions in the floor surface with thin-set cement.
Wait for the cement to completely dry before continuing.
You may also need to lay a plywood subfloor to make the floor level.
Marble should not be installed on a floor that has a change in height that is more than ¼ inch (6 mm) in a distance of 10 feet (3 m). , Run your finger nails over the tiles to make sure there are not cracks or gaps in the polished surface of the tile.
You should not use any tiles that have these cracks or gaps because they might break in the process of installation or use.
Most hardware stores will accept exchanges of tiles that have cracks or gaps in them. , Plan your installation on paper using the floor dimensions and sizes of the tiles.
Decide on your pattern for laying the tiles.
You can lay them in rows or in a pyramid-like structure or in other patterns.
Draw the pattern to scale on paper.
You want to keep most tiles full-sized so that you do not have to cut them.
You also do not want strips of tile that are less than 2 inches (5 cm) wide. , Measure the center of each wall and make a light mark with a pencil.
Then take a chalk snap line and hold it to either end of the centers of two opposing walls.
Lower the line and snap it to the floor to make a chalk line.
Do this for the other two walls as well.
Where the two chalk lines meet is the center of your floor.
You usually want tiles to radiate from the center of your floor. , Continue snapping the chalk line on the floor in the planned grid.
This will mark down where your tiles should go. , Place your tiles within the grid you have created.
This dry-run allows you to identify areas where you will need to cut tiles to fit and will help you determine the best place to start laying the tile based on your pattern and the shape of the area you plan to tile.
If the gap between the last complete tile and the wall is less than 2 inches (5 cm) then you should move the center tile over.
This makes the strip of tile in this area wider, which will look nicer when you lay your tiles. , Be sure to wear heavy-duty work gloves and work one section of the floor at a time.
The adhesive should be thick enough that you can use the notched edge of the trowel to make grooves in the adhesive without showing the floor below, but thin enough that it does not push up between the tiles.
The grooves ensure that the adhesive spreads evenly on the back of the tiles.
Choose the adhesive recommended for your type of marble.
Ask at the location where you purchase your tiles about the proper adhesive to use., Lay the tiles on top of the adhesive within 10 minutes of applying the adhesive.
Be careful not to slide the tiles into place or get adhesive on the top of the tiles.
Sliding the tiles into place will push up the adhesive and make the tiles uneven, causing them to crack.
Adhesive will be difficult to remove from the tops of the tiles. , Use spacers to create the correct spacing between the tiles and keep them even with straight lines along the rows and columns.
You should use 1/8 inch (3 mm) marble tile spacers.
Spacers help ensure proper placement of the tiles. , Check the level of the tiles to ensure that no edge “lips”, or rises above the rest of the tiles.
Take a length of wood and lay it across the tops of the marble tiles, using a hammer to lightly tap the wood down.
This ensures that all the tiles are at the same level.
Use the piece of wood in both directions along the grid to make all the tiles exactly the same level. , Place another tile against the wall so that the edge of the second tile lays on top of the first tile.
Score a line in the first tile using a utility knife to mark your cut line for the correct width of tile needed. , In order to minimize the risk of tiles breaking when they are being cut, saw three-fourths of the length of the tile, turn the tile around and then cut the remaining length.
Repeat the process until you have cut all the specially sized tiles and placed them into the adhesive.
You can usually rent a wet saw for a day from a local hardware store or tool rental company. , If you have put too much adhesive beneath the tiles or push the tiles down too hard then it can push up between the tiles.
If this has happened then you must take a small knife to cut out these extra bits. , Different adhesives take different lengths of time so check the adhesive instructions for the proper drying time.
Do not step on the tiles during this time or else you can make them uneven. , Marble is very soft and prone to damage so it is important to apply a coat of high quality marble sealing agent before proceeding with the grout.
This seal is also important because marble is very porous and grout can cause stains in the tiles.
Apply the sealing agent over the tops of the marble.
Even if you prefer the color and look of unsealed marble you can use a “grout release”-type sealer to prevent grout from sticking to the marble tiles. , Grout, or mortar, will be used ot fill in the spaces between the tiles.
Be sure to wear a dust mask, safety goggles, and heavy-duty work gloves.
Wear a long-sleeve shirt to avoid any possible damage to your skin from contact with the grout.
Mix only enough as will be used in 15-20 minutes of work or else the extra can dry out and harden. , This prepares the spaces for the grout or mortar. , Spread the concrete evenly over the spaces between the tiles using a squeegee.
Be careful to avoid getting cement on the tops of the tiles.
Some will inevitably get on top of the tiles but you want to minimize the amount.
Try to push it into the spaces as much as possible to create a tight fight.
Wipe up any grout on top of the tiles as you go. , Use a squeegee to spread out the grout and leave a smooth surface in the cracks.
You can also use a gloved finger to run down the grooves and smooth the top of the grout. , Use a damp sponge to wipe down the tops of the tiles to remove any excess grout.
Try not to get extra moisture into the grout or else it can make it too wet. , Allow the grout to dry for the length of time required by the manufacturer.
Some will require long curing times to ensure maximum strength., Use a disposable sponge applicator to paint the grout with a grout sealer.
This will help prevent stains and dirt from permanently discoloring the grout.
It will also make cleaning easier later on. , Clean your tools with water or acetone to remove the excess grout or mortar and prepare them for use once again. -
Step 3: Remove any existing tiles.
-
Step 4: Clean the floor surface you plan to tile and allow it to dry.
-
Step 5: Use a long level to make sure the floor area is level.
-
Step 6: Inspect the tiles.
-
Step 7: Measure the length and width of the floor and create a layout on paper.
-
Step 8: Mark the center of your floor.
-
Step 9: Mark your grid on the floor using the chalk line.
-
Step 10: Place the tiles in the pattern.
-
Step 11: Apply a layer of thin-set adhesive on the floor surface using a notched trowel.
-
Step 12: Lay marble tiles firmly in the thin-set adhesive.
-
Step 13: Position the tiles in place using spacers.
-
Step 14: Check the level of the tiles.
-
Step 15: Measure the dimension of any partial tiles needed by placing one tile on top of the full tile closest to the wall.
-
Step 16: Use a wet saw to cut the tiles to fit in the edges along the walls or special spaces.
-
Step 17: Remove any excess adhesive between the tiles.
-
Step 18: Leave tiles undisturbed 24-48 hours to allow adhesive to dry completely.
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Step 19: Seal the marble.
-
Step 20: Mix grout according to the instructions on the packaging.
-
Step 21: Dampen the spaces between the tiles using a moist sponge.
-
Step 22: Fill the spaces with cement.
-
Step 23: Use a squeegee to spread out the grout.
-
Step 24: Use a clean sponge to wipe down the surface of the marble tiles.
-
Step 25: Allow the grout to dry.
-
Step 26: Seal the grout.
-
Step 27: Clean tools with water or acetone.
Detailed Guide
These will protect your hands, eyes and lungs as you install your marble tiles.
If you are installing the marble on a floor that is already tiled then you must remove the old tiles first.
Ceramic tiles can be smashed with a hammer and then removed.
Vinyl tiles should be ripped up with a pry bar., Before installing any tiles you will want to make sure that the floor surface beneath the tiles is thoroughly cleaned and dried. , Marble is a very soft tile and can be particularly susceptible to cracking if it is not installed on a level surface.
Use the longest level possible to make sure your floor is level.
You can try sanding down any bumps that raise the floor or filling in any depressions in the floor surface with thin-set cement.
Wait for the cement to completely dry before continuing.
You may also need to lay a plywood subfloor to make the floor level.
Marble should not be installed on a floor that has a change in height that is more than ¼ inch (6 mm) in a distance of 10 feet (3 m). , Run your finger nails over the tiles to make sure there are not cracks or gaps in the polished surface of the tile.
You should not use any tiles that have these cracks or gaps because they might break in the process of installation or use.
Most hardware stores will accept exchanges of tiles that have cracks or gaps in them. , Plan your installation on paper using the floor dimensions and sizes of the tiles.
Decide on your pattern for laying the tiles.
You can lay them in rows or in a pyramid-like structure or in other patterns.
Draw the pattern to scale on paper.
You want to keep most tiles full-sized so that you do not have to cut them.
You also do not want strips of tile that are less than 2 inches (5 cm) wide. , Measure the center of each wall and make a light mark with a pencil.
Then take a chalk snap line and hold it to either end of the centers of two opposing walls.
Lower the line and snap it to the floor to make a chalk line.
Do this for the other two walls as well.
Where the two chalk lines meet is the center of your floor.
You usually want tiles to radiate from the center of your floor. , Continue snapping the chalk line on the floor in the planned grid.
This will mark down where your tiles should go. , Place your tiles within the grid you have created.
This dry-run allows you to identify areas where you will need to cut tiles to fit and will help you determine the best place to start laying the tile based on your pattern and the shape of the area you plan to tile.
If the gap between the last complete tile and the wall is less than 2 inches (5 cm) then you should move the center tile over.
This makes the strip of tile in this area wider, which will look nicer when you lay your tiles. , Be sure to wear heavy-duty work gloves and work one section of the floor at a time.
The adhesive should be thick enough that you can use the notched edge of the trowel to make grooves in the adhesive without showing the floor below, but thin enough that it does not push up between the tiles.
The grooves ensure that the adhesive spreads evenly on the back of the tiles.
Choose the adhesive recommended for your type of marble.
Ask at the location where you purchase your tiles about the proper adhesive to use., Lay the tiles on top of the adhesive within 10 minutes of applying the adhesive.
Be careful not to slide the tiles into place or get adhesive on the top of the tiles.
Sliding the tiles into place will push up the adhesive and make the tiles uneven, causing them to crack.
Adhesive will be difficult to remove from the tops of the tiles. , Use spacers to create the correct spacing between the tiles and keep them even with straight lines along the rows and columns.
You should use 1/8 inch (3 mm) marble tile spacers.
Spacers help ensure proper placement of the tiles. , Check the level of the tiles to ensure that no edge “lips”, or rises above the rest of the tiles.
Take a length of wood and lay it across the tops of the marble tiles, using a hammer to lightly tap the wood down.
This ensures that all the tiles are at the same level.
Use the piece of wood in both directions along the grid to make all the tiles exactly the same level. , Place another tile against the wall so that the edge of the second tile lays on top of the first tile.
Score a line in the first tile using a utility knife to mark your cut line for the correct width of tile needed. , In order to minimize the risk of tiles breaking when they are being cut, saw three-fourths of the length of the tile, turn the tile around and then cut the remaining length.
Repeat the process until you have cut all the specially sized tiles and placed them into the adhesive.
You can usually rent a wet saw for a day from a local hardware store or tool rental company. , If you have put too much adhesive beneath the tiles or push the tiles down too hard then it can push up between the tiles.
If this has happened then you must take a small knife to cut out these extra bits. , Different adhesives take different lengths of time so check the adhesive instructions for the proper drying time.
Do not step on the tiles during this time or else you can make them uneven. , Marble is very soft and prone to damage so it is important to apply a coat of high quality marble sealing agent before proceeding with the grout.
This seal is also important because marble is very porous and grout can cause stains in the tiles.
Apply the sealing agent over the tops of the marble.
Even if you prefer the color and look of unsealed marble you can use a “grout release”-type sealer to prevent grout from sticking to the marble tiles. , Grout, or mortar, will be used ot fill in the spaces between the tiles.
Be sure to wear a dust mask, safety goggles, and heavy-duty work gloves.
Wear a long-sleeve shirt to avoid any possible damage to your skin from contact with the grout.
Mix only enough as will be used in 15-20 minutes of work or else the extra can dry out and harden. , This prepares the spaces for the grout or mortar. , Spread the concrete evenly over the spaces between the tiles using a squeegee.
Be careful to avoid getting cement on the tops of the tiles.
Some will inevitably get on top of the tiles but you want to minimize the amount.
Try to push it into the spaces as much as possible to create a tight fight.
Wipe up any grout on top of the tiles as you go. , Use a squeegee to spread out the grout and leave a smooth surface in the cracks.
You can also use a gloved finger to run down the grooves and smooth the top of the grout. , Use a damp sponge to wipe down the tops of the tiles to remove any excess grout.
Try not to get extra moisture into the grout or else it can make it too wet. , Allow the grout to dry for the length of time required by the manufacturer.
Some will require long curing times to ensure maximum strength., Use a disposable sponge applicator to paint the grout with a grout sealer.
This will help prevent stains and dirt from permanently discoloring the grout.
It will also make cleaning easier later on. , Clean your tools with water or acetone to remove the excess grout or mortar and prepare them for use once again.
About the Author
Samuel Rogers
Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow practical skills tutorials.
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