How to Nail Into Brick

Use nails to support light to medium weight attachments., Purchase masonry nails., Pre-drill the lumber., Tap in the central nail., Put on safety goggles., Nail the object to the mortar.

6 Steps 3 min read Medium

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Use nails to support light to medium weight attachments.

    Masonry nails can support furring strips, shelf brackets, or boards up to 1½" thick (38mm; the thickness of a 2 x 4).They are built for anchoring into the mortar joints between bricks.

    Use sleeve anchors instead for heavyweight attachments, or if you need to anchor an object directly into the brick itself.If your wall is a single layer of brick with an exterior surface, the nails could open small cracks in the mortar and allow water to seep through.Use an adhesive or other non-penetrating method instead, or plan to waterproof the exterior.
  2. Step 2: Purchase masonry nails.

    Masonry nails are made from hardened steel, and usually grooved or threaded.Ordinary nails cannot penetrate into masonry.

    Choose nails long enough to penetrate about 1¼ to 1½ inches (32–38mm) into the wall, plus the thickness of the board you are attaching.Cut masonry nails are a variety with flat, tapering sides and a blunt point.

    These are less likely to split lumber, but are not strictly necessary.

    Use studs instead when fastening thin metal and plastic, or when supporting a plaque, pipe support, or other object that might need replacement.

    Studs leave a threaded end protruding from the wall so you can fasten the object with an easily removed nut., If you are nailing lumber to the wall, drilling the holes through the board will make the job easier.

    Hold the lumber up against the wall and mark hole positions every 18–24 inches (45–60cm), with each hole positioned over the mortar joints, not the bricks themselves.

    Return the lumber to your workbench and drill through these marks with a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of your nails., Before placing the board against the wall, tap a nail through the central hole using a hammer.

    If you are using cut nails, align them so the tapering sides are parallel with the wood grain., Both the masonry nails and the brick are brittle objects that can shatter when struck at an angle.

    Wear goggles or safety glasses to protect against flying shards. , Place the object against the wall, with the nail lined up over the mortar, not the brick face.

    Use the small sledgehammer to drive the nail forcefully into the mortar.

    Strike the head of the nail squarely and keep the nail at a right angle to the mortar to minimize the chance of breaking.

    Drive the nail in until the head is flush with the board's surface.Hammer the remaining nails the same way.

    If you have a big job or find it difficult to drive in the nails with a sledgehammer, get a stud driver instead.

    Insert the nail in the hollow tube and strike the end of the driver with a hammer.

    This allows for faster, straighter nailing with less chance of chipping the masonry.
  3. Step 3: Pre-drill the lumber.

  4. Step 4: Tap in the central nail.

  5. Step 5: Put on safety goggles.

  6. Step 6: Nail the object to the mortar.

Detailed Guide

Masonry nails can support furring strips, shelf brackets, or boards up to 1½" thick (38mm; the thickness of a 2 x 4).They are built for anchoring into the mortar joints between bricks.

Use sleeve anchors instead for heavyweight attachments, or if you need to anchor an object directly into the brick itself.If your wall is a single layer of brick with an exterior surface, the nails could open small cracks in the mortar and allow water to seep through.Use an adhesive or other non-penetrating method instead, or plan to waterproof the exterior.

Masonry nails are made from hardened steel, and usually grooved or threaded.Ordinary nails cannot penetrate into masonry.

Choose nails long enough to penetrate about 1¼ to 1½ inches (32–38mm) into the wall, plus the thickness of the board you are attaching.Cut masonry nails are a variety with flat, tapering sides and a blunt point.

These are less likely to split lumber, but are not strictly necessary.

Use studs instead when fastening thin metal and plastic, or when supporting a plaque, pipe support, or other object that might need replacement.

Studs leave a threaded end protruding from the wall so you can fasten the object with an easily removed nut., If you are nailing lumber to the wall, drilling the holes through the board will make the job easier.

Hold the lumber up against the wall and mark hole positions every 18–24 inches (45–60cm), with each hole positioned over the mortar joints, not the bricks themselves.

Return the lumber to your workbench and drill through these marks with a drill bit slightly smaller than the diameter of your nails., Before placing the board against the wall, tap a nail through the central hole using a hammer.

If you are using cut nails, align them so the tapering sides are parallel with the wood grain., Both the masonry nails and the brick are brittle objects that can shatter when struck at an angle.

Wear goggles or safety glasses to protect against flying shards. , Place the object against the wall, with the nail lined up over the mortar, not the brick face.

Use the small sledgehammer to drive the nail forcefully into the mortar.

Strike the head of the nail squarely and keep the nail at a right angle to the mortar to minimize the chance of breaking.

Drive the nail in until the head is flush with the board's surface.Hammer the remaining nails the same way.

If you have a big job or find it difficult to drive in the nails with a sledgehammer, get a stud driver instead.

Insert the nail in the hollow tube and strike the end of the driver with a hammer.

This allows for faster, straighter nailing with less chance of chipping the masonry.

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Patricia Armstrong

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