How to Plane Wood
Choose the appropriate hand plane for your job., Sharpen the blade of the plane., Adjust the angle of the blade., Plane the surface of the wood., Avoid tear-out by cutting along the grain of the wood., Check the accuracy of your planing.
Step-by-Step Guide
-
Step 1: Choose the appropriate hand plane for your job.
Hand planes come in several different varieties.
The main defining characteristic of each type of hand plane is size.
The longer the body of a plane, the more accurately it will straighten wood, as the length of the body allows the plane to bridge peaks and troughs in the wood's surface.
Shorter planes, however, are often easier to control for precise detail work.
Below are a few of the most common types of hand plane you'll encounter, listed from longest to shortest:
A jointer plane typically has a body length of 22 inches (56 cm) or longer.
These long hand planes are useful for trimming or straightening long pieces of wood, like boards or doors.
A jack plane is slightly shorter than a jointer plane, with a length from 12 to 17 inches (30 to 43 cm).
It is more versatile than the jointer plane because of its shorter length and thus can be used to square both long boards and shorter pieces of rough lumber.
A smoothing plane is about 10 inches (25 cm) long and is the most versatile of all hand planes.
It can be used for general smoothing and straightening of all projects.
A block plane is the smallest type of plane.
This type of plane is too short to effectively straighten long boards, but is ideal for shaving very thin pieces from a surface or working in a tight corner. -
Step 2: Sharpen the blade of the plane.
The blade (also called the iron) of the plane needs to be razor sharp before use
- even new planes should be sharpened.
To sharpen the blade, first place a piece of 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface.
Hold the blade at a 25 or 30 degree angle so that the bevel is flat against the sandpaper.
Maintaining this angle, rub the blade around the sandpaper in a circle while applying downward pressure.
When a burr (an accumulation of metal shavings) forms along its back, the blade is ready to use.
Remove the burr by wiping the back of the blade flat across the sandpaper. , When it comes to planing wood, the angle of the blade dictates how "thick" the shavings you'll take from the surface of the wood will be.
If the blade angle is too deep, you can end up jamming the plane or tearing your wood.
To adjust the blade angle, turn the depth adjustment wheel, which is the small wheel just behind the blade assembly.
Adjust the blade's angle until the tip of the blade protrudes just below the sole of the plane.
It's good policy to start by using a shallow angle, then increasing the depth of the cut if necessary. , Begin smoothing and flattening your wood by placing the plane at the edge of the surface.
As you apply downward pressure on the front knob and press forward with the back handle, push the plane across the surface in a smooth, continuous motion.
Work across the surface of your wood methodically, making sure to pay extra attention to any high spots or uneven spots on the surface of the wood.
A level or straight edge can help you find uneven spots in your wood. , To smooth the surface of the board, you may find that you need to plane in multiple directions.
However, always avoid planing directly against the grain.
Doing so can cause the blade to "catch" under minute, angled imperfections in the surface of the wood.
When this happens, the plane can tear small, rough chunks from the wood's surface, rather than shaving the surface uniformly.
This is called "tear-out".
To fix tear-out, try re-planing the jagged spot along the grain of the wood or sanding it smooth. , Ideally, after you plane your wood, you'll have a smooth, flat surface that sits flush with any adjacent pieces of wood.
Check your wood's flatness and smoothness by laying a straight edge along its surface.
The straight edge should sit flush against the face of the wood regardless of its position.
If, in any position, your straight edge sits on the wood in a way that leaves gaps underneath it, you'll know that the section of the wood your straight edge is making contact with is a high spot.
A try square can be used to check the angle between two adjacent faces of the wood to ensure they sit at a perfect ninety degree angle. -
Step 3: Adjust the angle of the blade.
-
Step 4: Plane the surface of the wood.
-
Step 5: Avoid tear-out by cutting along the grain of the wood.
-
Step 6: Check the accuracy of your planing.
Detailed Guide
Hand planes come in several different varieties.
The main defining characteristic of each type of hand plane is size.
The longer the body of a plane, the more accurately it will straighten wood, as the length of the body allows the plane to bridge peaks and troughs in the wood's surface.
Shorter planes, however, are often easier to control for precise detail work.
Below are a few of the most common types of hand plane you'll encounter, listed from longest to shortest:
A jointer plane typically has a body length of 22 inches (56 cm) or longer.
These long hand planes are useful for trimming or straightening long pieces of wood, like boards or doors.
A jack plane is slightly shorter than a jointer plane, with a length from 12 to 17 inches (30 to 43 cm).
It is more versatile than the jointer plane because of its shorter length and thus can be used to square both long boards and shorter pieces of rough lumber.
A smoothing plane is about 10 inches (25 cm) long and is the most versatile of all hand planes.
It can be used for general smoothing and straightening of all projects.
A block plane is the smallest type of plane.
This type of plane is too short to effectively straighten long boards, but is ideal for shaving very thin pieces from a surface or working in a tight corner.
The blade (also called the iron) of the plane needs to be razor sharp before use
- even new planes should be sharpened.
To sharpen the blade, first place a piece of 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface.
Hold the blade at a 25 or 30 degree angle so that the bevel is flat against the sandpaper.
Maintaining this angle, rub the blade around the sandpaper in a circle while applying downward pressure.
When a burr (an accumulation of metal shavings) forms along its back, the blade is ready to use.
Remove the burr by wiping the back of the blade flat across the sandpaper. , When it comes to planing wood, the angle of the blade dictates how "thick" the shavings you'll take from the surface of the wood will be.
If the blade angle is too deep, you can end up jamming the plane or tearing your wood.
To adjust the blade angle, turn the depth adjustment wheel, which is the small wheel just behind the blade assembly.
Adjust the blade's angle until the tip of the blade protrudes just below the sole of the plane.
It's good policy to start by using a shallow angle, then increasing the depth of the cut if necessary. , Begin smoothing and flattening your wood by placing the plane at the edge of the surface.
As you apply downward pressure on the front knob and press forward with the back handle, push the plane across the surface in a smooth, continuous motion.
Work across the surface of your wood methodically, making sure to pay extra attention to any high spots or uneven spots on the surface of the wood.
A level or straight edge can help you find uneven spots in your wood. , To smooth the surface of the board, you may find that you need to plane in multiple directions.
However, always avoid planing directly against the grain.
Doing so can cause the blade to "catch" under minute, angled imperfections in the surface of the wood.
When this happens, the plane can tear small, rough chunks from the wood's surface, rather than shaving the surface uniformly.
This is called "tear-out".
To fix tear-out, try re-planing the jagged spot along the grain of the wood or sanding it smooth. , Ideally, after you plane your wood, you'll have a smooth, flat surface that sits flush with any adjacent pieces of wood.
Check your wood's flatness and smoothness by laying a straight edge along its surface.
The straight edge should sit flush against the face of the wood regardless of its position.
If, in any position, your straight edge sits on the wood in a way that leaves gaps underneath it, you'll know that the section of the wood your straight edge is making contact with is a high spot.
A try square can be used to check the angle between two adjacent faces of the wood to ensure they sit at a perfect ninety degree angle.
About the Author
Catherine Alvarez
Dedicated to helping readers learn new skills in crafts and beyond.
Rate This Guide
How helpful was this guide? Click to rate: