How to Replace the Front Brakes on a 2001‐2005 Chevrolet Impala
Get your tools ready., Prepare for safety., Drive the car to a flat surface., Loosen the lug nuts., Unlock your steering wheel by turning the key in the ignition to between OFF and ACC position, if desired., Position the lifting jack in the center...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Get your tools ready.
Before starting the job there is a number of required tools you must have.
They're listed in the Things You'll Need section of this page.
Most should be available with a basic garage tool set.
If you don't have a specific one, most auto parts stores will allow you to rent one out by paying a deposit which is returned after the tool is. . , Now that you have all the tools to do the job you'll need to make sure it's done safely.
Safety glasses, closed or steel toe shoes, working gloves and preferably pants are all recommended., Place chocks or a solid piece of wood behind either of the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving. , Loosen the front lug nuts using a breaker bar and a 19mm socket.
Do not remove the lug nuts completely! A quarter of a turn in the counter clockwise direction should be enough.
If you have a wheel lock nut, always remove it first and install last! , This will unlock the wheel and keep your battery off.
Make sure to roll down a window or keep a door open so you don't lock your keys in the car. , Place a small wooden board between the jack and the frame to prevent any damage.
You don't have to worry about this if the lifting surface of your jack is rubber., Watch for any movement or slippage of the jack.
If positioned properly it will lift the vehicle straight and directly upwards.
If you see any tilt or slippage, stop immediately.
Assess the situation and lower the car very slowly.
Re-position the jack properly and repeat the lifting procedure., This should be enough the position the jack stands underneath the support location.
It is identified by two cutouts in the pinch-weld of the car., Then lower the jack onto them until they touch.
It is always a good idea to leave the jack just touching the lifting spot, it provides additional safety and saves time later on when lowering the car., Do this by giving the car a slight push down on the hood and sideways on the fender. , Turn the steering wheel in the direction such that it gives you better access to caliper bolts. (Working on the drivers side, turn the wheel to the left)., Using a ratcheting wrench and a 15mm socket.
On this model they are integrated with caliper pins so put them on a rag to be cleaned and re-greased later.
Notice that the pins are different.
One of them has a rubber insert on it and that one always goes in the top caliper hole., Do this by tugging on it or placing a small pry bar between it and the rotor to pry it off.
Use a rubber strap or a piece of wire to secure the rotor to the suspension spring.
This will prevent any potential damage to the brake hose.
If the caliper pin bolts do not move and appear to be seized, stop immediately! Put the wheels back on and have an automotive shop perform the brake job.
Removing seized caliper pins requires additional tools. , Using a 15mm socket.
These may be very tight and it might be easier to loosen with a breaker bar.
Remove the bolts and remove the caliper bracket.
Use a small hammer to make the pads come out of the bracket.
Although sometimes they can be removed by hand. , Do this by pulling and wiggling it side to side.
If it is stuck use penetrating oil in the holes where the lug studs come out, let it rest for a few minutes.
Proceed to tap the back of the rotor with a hammer while alternating sides to gradually remove it from the hub. , It does not have to be perfect, as long as major rust is removed.
If your pads came with hardware (metal shims) you can remove the old ones from the caliper bracket and use a wire brush to clean the rust off from underneath the old shims.
If you do not have new shims, do not remove the old ones.
Just use the wire brush to clean the rust off from the top of the old shims. ,, You will notice it is oily.
This is done by the manufacturer to prevent corrosion while storing and transporting parts.
This oil film needs to be removed by spraying all rotor surfaces with brake parts cleaner.
Be very careful using this spray since it is a strong irritant to the eyes and skin.
Always use protective eye-ware and gloves.
Brake parts cleaner usually dries and evaporates pretty quickly but if it does not just wipe it off with a clean rag.
It is always a good idea to compare the new rotor to the old one and verify they are the same size. , Take one of the lug nuts and thread it on any stud by hand as far as it will go.
This will make the rotor stay in place and ease the rest of the installation. , Your caliper bracket should be free of rust on the shim surface at this point.
If you removed the old shims, install the new ones now.
A good set of brake pads usually comes with a small packet of high temperature brake grease.
Apply a very small amount of grease onto the shim surfaces as shown in the picture.
Manufacturer calls to put thread locking compound onto the caliper bolts. , Torque the bolts to 133 lb.ft (180 N.m). , If you look closely you may notice the brake pads are not the same.
Two of them should be with small tabs on them and two without.
The pad with a small tab goes on the inside surface of the rotor. , This might be a little tricky.
Install the far part of the pad first and gently push in the middle of the pad.
It should slide right in.
Do the same on the outer side of the caliper bracket. , In order to do this you need to compress the piston first.
It is recommended that you open the bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the drain pan below.
Use a 10mm wrench to brake loose the bleeder.
Do not use excessive force.
If the bleeder does not come loose, stop immediately! Breaking the bleeder will render the caliper unusable and you will have to purchase a new one.
If the bleeder does not come lose, open the hood of the car and remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir, this will release pressure as the caliper piston is being compressed., Position the large C-clamp on the caliper as shown in the picture below.
Begin to turn the handle of the C-clamp to compress the piston until it is flush with the surface of the caliper.
If the piston is very hard to move, your caliper might be seized and will have to be replaced. , Discard the old brake pad., Failure to perform this step correctly will cause your brake pedal to be very soft and may become a safety issue.
Ensure that the pin boots are not folded over and are positioned in the way that the pins will fit in them. , Remember that the pin with a rubber insert goes in the top hole and through the rubber pin boot.
Tighten the bolts and torque them to 70 lb.ft (95 N.m).
Remove the lug nut supporting the rotor on the hub. , Afterwards replace the cap of the brake fluid reservoir., Put the wheels back on the studs and hand tighten the lug nuts.
Remember to keep the wheel flush on the surface of the rotor.
Tighten the lug nuts as much as you can by holding the wheel with your free hand., Stop lowering immediately after the wheels make contact with the ground.
There should be minimal weight on the wheels.
Just enough to prevent them from moving., If you have a locking nut make sure to install it last and never toque it; just hand tighten.
A good way to retain the star pattern and make the locking nut last to be tightened is to start torquing the lug nut directly opposite of the locking nut. , It is a good idea to check or remove all the tools and old parts from underneath the car before lowering it., Repeat this 3-4 times or until the pedal gets stiff.,, Make sure everything is working properly and that there is no abnormal noise.
Brand new brake pads might cause a slight hissing noise upon braking.
You may also notice a strange smell after driving.
This is all normal and should only last one or two days.
Follow brake pad manufacturer recommendation on break in procedure. -
Step 2: Prepare for safety.
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Step 3: Drive the car to a flat surface.
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Step 4: Loosen the lug nuts.
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Step 5: Unlock your steering wheel by turning the key in the ignition to between OFF and ACC position
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Step 6: if desired.
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Step 7: Position the lifting jack in the center underneath the thick aluminum sub frame.
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Step 8: Begin lifting slowly.
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Step 9: Lift the vehicle so the wheels are about 3-4 inches from the ground.
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Step 10: Place your jack stands underneath the frame rails.
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Step 11: Verify that the car is properly positioned on the jack stands.
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Step 12: Remove all the lug nuts from the front wheels and remove the wheels.
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Step 13: Loosen the two caliper bolts and pull them out.
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Step 14: Remove the caliper.
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Step 15: Loosen the two caliper bracket bolts.
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Step 16: Remove the rotor.
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Step 17: Clean the contact surface between the rotor and wheel hub from any excess rust and corrosion.
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Step 18: Clean and re-grease the caliper pins and set them aside away from dust or debris.
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Step 19: Take your new rotor out of its package.
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Step 20: Install the rotor onto the wheel hub.
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Step 21: Install the caliper bracket.
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Step 22: Tighten the two 15mm bolts.
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Step 23: Install the brake pads.
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Step 24: Install the brake pads into the caliper bracket.
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Step 25: Reinstall the caliper.
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Step 26: Use the old brake pad to prevent damage to the piston boot.
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Step 27: Tighten the bleeder just snug and loosen the C-clamp.
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Step 28: Install the caliper back on the caliper bracket while making sure the bleeder is pointing up and that the brake hose is not twisted or kinked.
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Step 29: Install the caliper bolt pins through the caliper and into the caliper bracket.
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Step 30: Double check everything and repeat the whole process on the other side of the car.
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Step 31: Install the wheels.
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Step 32: Raise the car a few inches above the jack stands in order to remove them and lower the vehicle very slowly.
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Step 33: Torque the lug nuts to 100 lb.ft (136 N.m) in a star pattern.
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Step 34: Lower the car completely and remove the jack.
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Step 35: Sit inside the car and depress the brake pedal very slowly about 3/4 distance and release just as slowly.
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Step 36: Remove the wheel chocks.
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Step 37: Take the vehicle for a test drive.
Detailed Guide
Before starting the job there is a number of required tools you must have.
They're listed in the Things You'll Need section of this page.
Most should be available with a basic garage tool set.
If you don't have a specific one, most auto parts stores will allow you to rent one out by paying a deposit which is returned after the tool is. . , Now that you have all the tools to do the job you'll need to make sure it's done safely.
Safety glasses, closed or steel toe shoes, working gloves and preferably pants are all recommended., Place chocks or a solid piece of wood behind either of the rear wheels to prevent the car from moving. , Loosen the front lug nuts using a breaker bar and a 19mm socket.
Do not remove the lug nuts completely! A quarter of a turn in the counter clockwise direction should be enough.
If you have a wheel lock nut, always remove it first and install last! , This will unlock the wheel and keep your battery off.
Make sure to roll down a window or keep a door open so you don't lock your keys in the car. , Place a small wooden board between the jack and the frame to prevent any damage.
You don't have to worry about this if the lifting surface of your jack is rubber., Watch for any movement or slippage of the jack.
If positioned properly it will lift the vehicle straight and directly upwards.
If you see any tilt or slippage, stop immediately.
Assess the situation and lower the car very slowly.
Re-position the jack properly and repeat the lifting procedure., This should be enough the position the jack stands underneath the support location.
It is identified by two cutouts in the pinch-weld of the car., Then lower the jack onto them until they touch.
It is always a good idea to leave the jack just touching the lifting spot, it provides additional safety and saves time later on when lowering the car., Do this by giving the car a slight push down on the hood and sideways on the fender. , Turn the steering wheel in the direction such that it gives you better access to caliper bolts. (Working on the drivers side, turn the wheel to the left)., Using a ratcheting wrench and a 15mm socket.
On this model they are integrated with caliper pins so put them on a rag to be cleaned and re-greased later.
Notice that the pins are different.
One of them has a rubber insert on it and that one always goes in the top caliper hole., Do this by tugging on it or placing a small pry bar between it and the rotor to pry it off.
Use a rubber strap or a piece of wire to secure the rotor to the suspension spring.
This will prevent any potential damage to the brake hose.
If the caliper pin bolts do not move and appear to be seized, stop immediately! Put the wheels back on and have an automotive shop perform the brake job.
Removing seized caliper pins requires additional tools. , Using a 15mm socket.
These may be very tight and it might be easier to loosen with a breaker bar.
Remove the bolts and remove the caliper bracket.
Use a small hammer to make the pads come out of the bracket.
Although sometimes they can be removed by hand. , Do this by pulling and wiggling it side to side.
If it is stuck use penetrating oil in the holes where the lug studs come out, let it rest for a few minutes.
Proceed to tap the back of the rotor with a hammer while alternating sides to gradually remove it from the hub. , It does not have to be perfect, as long as major rust is removed.
If your pads came with hardware (metal shims) you can remove the old ones from the caliper bracket and use a wire brush to clean the rust off from underneath the old shims.
If you do not have new shims, do not remove the old ones.
Just use the wire brush to clean the rust off from the top of the old shims. ,, You will notice it is oily.
This is done by the manufacturer to prevent corrosion while storing and transporting parts.
This oil film needs to be removed by spraying all rotor surfaces with brake parts cleaner.
Be very careful using this spray since it is a strong irritant to the eyes and skin.
Always use protective eye-ware and gloves.
Brake parts cleaner usually dries and evaporates pretty quickly but if it does not just wipe it off with a clean rag.
It is always a good idea to compare the new rotor to the old one and verify they are the same size. , Take one of the lug nuts and thread it on any stud by hand as far as it will go.
This will make the rotor stay in place and ease the rest of the installation. , Your caliper bracket should be free of rust on the shim surface at this point.
If you removed the old shims, install the new ones now.
A good set of brake pads usually comes with a small packet of high temperature brake grease.
Apply a very small amount of grease onto the shim surfaces as shown in the picture.
Manufacturer calls to put thread locking compound onto the caliper bolts. , Torque the bolts to 133 lb.ft (180 N.m). , If you look closely you may notice the brake pads are not the same.
Two of them should be with small tabs on them and two without.
The pad with a small tab goes on the inside surface of the rotor. , This might be a little tricky.
Install the far part of the pad first and gently push in the middle of the pad.
It should slide right in.
Do the same on the outer side of the caliper bracket. , In order to do this you need to compress the piston first.
It is recommended that you open the bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the drain pan below.
Use a 10mm wrench to brake loose the bleeder.
Do not use excessive force.
If the bleeder does not come loose, stop immediately! Breaking the bleeder will render the caliper unusable and you will have to purchase a new one.
If the bleeder does not come lose, open the hood of the car and remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir, this will release pressure as the caliper piston is being compressed., Position the large C-clamp on the caliper as shown in the picture below.
Begin to turn the handle of the C-clamp to compress the piston until it is flush with the surface of the caliper.
If the piston is very hard to move, your caliper might be seized and will have to be replaced. , Discard the old brake pad., Failure to perform this step correctly will cause your brake pedal to be very soft and may become a safety issue.
Ensure that the pin boots are not folded over and are positioned in the way that the pins will fit in them. , Remember that the pin with a rubber insert goes in the top hole and through the rubber pin boot.
Tighten the bolts and torque them to 70 lb.ft (95 N.m).
Remove the lug nut supporting the rotor on the hub. , Afterwards replace the cap of the brake fluid reservoir., Put the wheels back on the studs and hand tighten the lug nuts.
Remember to keep the wheel flush on the surface of the rotor.
Tighten the lug nuts as much as you can by holding the wheel with your free hand., Stop lowering immediately after the wheels make contact with the ground.
There should be minimal weight on the wheels.
Just enough to prevent them from moving., If you have a locking nut make sure to install it last and never toque it; just hand tighten.
A good way to retain the star pattern and make the locking nut last to be tightened is to start torquing the lug nut directly opposite of the locking nut. , It is a good idea to check or remove all the tools and old parts from underneath the car before lowering it., Repeat this 3-4 times or until the pedal gets stiff.,, Make sure everything is working properly and that there is no abnormal noise.
Brand new brake pads might cause a slight hissing noise upon braking.
You may also notice a strange smell after driving.
This is all normal and should only last one or two days.
Follow brake pad manufacturer recommendation on break in procedure.
About the Author
Betty Reynolds
Experienced content creator specializing in crafts guides and tutorials.
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