How to Tape and Float Drywall
Cover the nail or screw holes in the drywall., Sand and apply a third thin coat., Begin taping the tapered (or beveled) edges of the drywall joints., Apply a wider, second coat of compound over the area., Cover the second coat with a final thin...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Cover the nail or screw holes in the drywall.
Start with the bottom holes and move upward.
Fill the holes with premixed drywall joint compound using a 2-inch (5.1 cm) putty knife.
Allow the putty to dry, then sand down the rough points.
Apply a second thin (but wider) coat using a 6-inch (15.3 cm) putty or taping knife, floating out or feathering the edges. -
Step 2: Sand and apply a third thin coat.
Use a 6-to-9 inch (5.3 to 23 cm) putty knife.
Sand the last coat down after drying so you can feather the edges. , Apply a coat of joint compound over the area about 1/8 inch (3.18 mm) thick, filling up the cracks in the process.
Dampen a piece of the paper joint tape.
Fiber mesh tape is easier to use, but it is weaker than paper tape.
Begin at the bottom and work the paper over the joint and into the compound using a 4-inch (10.2 cm) putty or taping knife.
Continue until you have covered the entire joint with one coat of joint compound and tape.
Allow this to dry. , Use a 6-inch (15.3 cm) putty knife.
Widen the width of the each following layer until you have filled up the dip, or beveled, edge in the wallboard and the joint appears to be flat. , Only do this once the second coat is dry.
Float out the joint, feathering the edges 12 inches (32 cm) on either side.
A 9-inch (23 cm) or wider putty knife works best for this layer. , Begin to smooth down any rough points with 100 grit sandpaper.
Next, further feather out the edges of the dry compound. , These are not beveled edges — you're looking for edges that have been cut.
You need to widen out each coat of joint compound, floating outward so you feather the edges.
The wider coverage will help prevent the appearance of a bump (or hump) in the flat wall. , Float out the inside corner of the drywall using tape that has been folded in half lengthwise and embedded the same way as a flat joint.
Fill the inside corner joint with compound.
Take folded tape and mash it into the corner with half of the tape on each side of the joint.
The folded edge should be tight in the corner.
Using a special corner tape knife will help.
Begin at the bottom and work up. , Use the corner knife in the seam and a 6-inch (15.2 cm) putty knife on each side as you float out the edges. , Next, spread a third and final coat over the corner joint.
Use the corner knife over the seam and a 9-to-12-inch (23 to
30.6 cm) putty knife on each side.
Again, make sure you float out the edges.
Allow it to dry and give it a final sanding (further flattening out the edges). , Don't use tape as you normally would.
This is recommended to prevent chipping when the corner is bumped or hit when passed by.
Connect the metal corner bead with staples or screws.
Now, apply 2 thin coats of joint compound over the mesh until it is level with the metal corner bead.
Float out the edges, using a 6-inch (15.3 cm) knife on the first coat and a 9-inch (23 cm) knife on the last coat. , Sand down the rough points and feather the edges. , This will help it stick to the joint compound. -
Step 3: Begin taping the tapered (or beveled) edges of the drywall joints.
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Step 4: Apply a wider
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Step 5: second coat of compound over the area.
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Step 6: Cover the second coat with a final thin layer of joint compound.
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Step 7: Allow the coat to dry.
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Step 8: Apply the same 3 coats as above at joints with raw edges.
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Step 9: Apply tape.
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Step 10: Spread a second coat over the taped corner joint after it has dried.
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Step 11: Allow the putty to dry.
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Step 12: Use a reinforced metal corner for outside corners and door openings.
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Step 13: Permit the area to dry between coats of joint compound.
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Step 14: Dampen the paper tape by dipping it in a bucket of water.
Detailed Guide
Start with the bottom holes and move upward.
Fill the holes with premixed drywall joint compound using a 2-inch (5.1 cm) putty knife.
Allow the putty to dry, then sand down the rough points.
Apply a second thin (but wider) coat using a 6-inch (15.3 cm) putty or taping knife, floating out or feathering the edges.
Use a 6-to-9 inch (5.3 to 23 cm) putty knife.
Sand the last coat down after drying so you can feather the edges. , Apply a coat of joint compound over the area about 1/8 inch (3.18 mm) thick, filling up the cracks in the process.
Dampen a piece of the paper joint tape.
Fiber mesh tape is easier to use, but it is weaker than paper tape.
Begin at the bottom and work the paper over the joint and into the compound using a 4-inch (10.2 cm) putty or taping knife.
Continue until you have covered the entire joint with one coat of joint compound and tape.
Allow this to dry. , Use a 6-inch (15.3 cm) putty knife.
Widen the width of the each following layer until you have filled up the dip, or beveled, edge in the wallboard and the joint appears to be flat. , Only do this once the second coat is dry.
Float out the joint, feathering the edges 12 inches (32 cm) on either side.
A 9-inch (23 cm) or wider putty knife works best for this layer. , Begin to smooth down any rough points with 100 grit sandpaper.
Next, further feather out the edges of the dry compound. , These are not beveled edges — you're looking for edges that have been cut.
You need to widen out each coat of joint compound, floating outward so you feather the edges.
The wider coverage will help prevent the appearance of a bump (or hump) in the flat wall. , Float out the inside corner of the drywall using tape that has been folded in half lengthwise and embedded the same way as a flat joint.
Fill the inside corner joint with compound.
Take folded tape and mash it into the corner with half of the tape on each side of the joint.
The folded edge should be tight in the corner.
Using a special corner tape knife will help.
Begin at the bottom and work up. , Use the corner knife in the seam and a 6-inch (15.2 cm) putty knife on each side as you float out the edges. , Next, spread a third and final coat over the corner joint.
Use the corner knife over the seam and a 9-to-12-inch (23 to
30.6 cm) putty knife on each side.
Again, make sure you float out the edges.
Allow it to dry and give it a final sanding (further flattening out the edges). , Don't use tape as you normally would.
This is recommended to prevent chipping when the corner is bumped or hit when passed by.
Connect the metal corner bead with staples or screws.
Now, apply 2 thin coats of joint compound over the mesh until it is level with the metal corner bead.
Float out the edges, using a 6-inch (15.3 cm) knife on the first coat and a 9-inch (23 cm) knife on the last coat. , Sand down the rough points and feather the edges. , This will help it stick to the joint compound.
About the Author
Thomas Stone
Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow lifestyle tutorials.
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