How to Use Galvanizing Repair Rods
Pre-clean the parent metal.,If the area to be repaired includes welds, all weld flux residue and weld spatter shall be removed by wire brush, chipping, grinding or power scaling., Use a soft flame, heat gun or soldering iron to heat the parent metal...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Pre-clean the parent metal.
Use emery cloth, a wire brush, sandblasting, etc.
Cleaning galvanized steel surfaces is often done with a stainless steel wire brush.
To ensure a smooth surface result, surface preparation should extend into the surrounding undamaged galvanized coating.
Breaking the oxide layer by agitation is an important key to successful galvanizing repair rod application. ,, Do not heat the surface over 750°F/400°C or allow the surrounding galvanized coating to burn.
If you use a direct flame, please keep it moving.
A direct flame held on the repair area is likely to overheat the solder.
Wire brush the surface during heating.
Pre-flux using flux if there is an adhesion problem.
NOTE:
Many applications do not require flux., If it is necessary to apply the flame directly to the rod to get it started, pull the torch tip back even farther from the work surface and keep it moving., ONCE THE ROD FLOWS, STOP APPLYING THE HEAT! Deposit the desired thickness of galvanizing repair rod.
A stainless steel brush works well to spread the solder and ensure it is adhering.
If additional layers are needed, continue to drag the rod over the area.
Bring back the heat only to keep the surface, not the rod hot enough to push the solder around to where you want it. *Sometimes it is necessary to heat the tip of the rod with the flame to help the solder flow more easily onto the repair area.
Do not heat the rod to the melting point., The most common oversight in repairing galvanized is failing to feather the galvanizing repair material layer into the undamaged galvanized coating.
If they don’t join in sufficient thickness to form a seamless barrier (skin), corrosion will occur right where they meet., The material should bond smoothly.
The repair rod will melt if overheated, but will not bond properly.
Spread the solder deposit evenly over the repair area.
A stainless steel brush works well for this step., The existing coating will help the bonding process, whether adding more solder or just flowing out the previous deposit.
If substantial time has elapsed since the original repair layer was applied, pre-clean the repair area again to remove any oxide coating that will impair bonding.
Again, a stainless steel brush works well for this step.,, -
Step 2: If the area to be repaired includes welds
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Step 3: all weld flux residue and weld spatter shall be removed by wire brush
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Step 4: chipping
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Step 5: grinding or power scaling.
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Step 6: Use a soft flame
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Step 7: heat gun or soldering iron to heat the parent metal repair area to at least 600°F/315°C.
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Step 8: Hold the torch tip 4 to 6 inches (10.2 to 15.2Â cm) away from the parent metal.
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Step 9: Drag the rod over the area to be soldered
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Step 10: until it begins to flow.
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Step 11: Blend the repair into the undamaged galvanized coating.
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Step 12: Observe the deposit.
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Step 13: If you stopped applying and want to apply more rod or flow out the deposit more
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Step 14: let the area cool below the solid temperature and reheat.
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Step 15: Smooth the repair area and remove any excess material with a wire brush.
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Step 16: Repeat these steps to build up additional layers of protection.
Detailed Guide
Use emery cloth, a wire brush, sandblasting, etc.
Cleaning galvanized steel surfaces is often done with a stainless steel wire brush.
To ensure a smooth surface result, surface preparation should extend into the surrounding undamaged galvanized coating.
Breaking the oxide layer by agitation is an important key to successful galvanizing repair rod application. ,, Do not heat the surface over 750°F/400°C or allow the surrounding galvanized coating to burn.
If you use a direct flame, please keep it moving.
A direct flame held on the repair area is likely to overheat the solder.
Wire brush the surface during heating.
Pre-flux using flux if there is an adhesion problem.
NOTE:
Many applications do not require flux., If it is necessary to apply the flame directly to the rod to get it started, pull the torch tip back even farther from the work surface and keep it moving., ONCE THE ROD FLOWS, STOP APPLYING THE HEAT! Deposit the desired thickness of galvanizing repair rod.
A stainless steel brush works well to spread the solder and ensure it is adhering.
If additional layers are needed, continue to drag the rod over the area.
Bring back the heat only to keep the surface, not the rod hot enough to push the solder around to where you want it. *Sometimes it is necessary to heat the tip of the rod with the flame to help the solder flow more easily onto the repair area.
Do not heat the rod to the melting point., The most common oversight in repairing galvanized is failing to feather the galvanizing repair material layer into the undamaged galvanized coating.
If they don’t join in sufficient thickness to form a seamless barrier (skin), corrosion will occur right where they meet., The material should bond smoothly.
The repair rod will melt if overheated, but will not bond properly.
Spread the solder deposit evenly over the repair area.
A stainless steel brush works well for this step., The existing coating will help the bonding process, whether adding more solder or just flowing out the previous deposit.
If substantial time has elapsed since the original repair layer was applied, pre-clean the repair area again to remove any oxide coating that will impair bonding.
Again, a stainless steel brush works well for this step.,,
About the Author
Charlotte Brown
With a background in writing and publishing, Charlotte Brown brings 3 years of hands-on experience to every article. Charlotte believes in making complex topics accessible to everyone.
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