How to Keep Poinsettias Growing To Next Christmas

Inspect the plant for bugs (most plants won't show bugs in the greenhouse but they will show up after about two weeks in the home)., If you want to keep over that particular plant, several applications of soapy water to the plant and potting soil...

9 Steps 3 min read Medium

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Inspect the plant for bugs (most plants won't show bugs in the greenhouse but they will show up after about two weeks in the home).

    If the plant is infected, it is best to throw it out and purchase another for keeping over.
  2. Step 2: If you want to keep over that particular plant

    Mealy bugs are the main concern and can be removed by dabbing them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.

    However, this should be done before the infection spreads or gets too large or you may never kill them all. , The plant should be allowed to go dry to the touch between watering and be watered only sparingly (over-watering is the leading cause of plant death in the winter months inside, the plant is not actively growing and is not taking up the normal food it would during the growing season, and if watered to much the plant will end up sitting in water and problems like moss, mold, rot and leaf yellow may accrue).

    When the temperatures at night get above 10 C, the plant can then be moved outside. , If a small bushy plant is your goal, the entire plant should be trimmed down to about "inches above the main trunk.

    If you want a larger plant, simply pinch the tops of each main branch and continue this until about July.

    If a topiary is your goal, then remove all of the branches except for the tallest, straightest main branch and do not pinch the plant on the top, just remove the side shoots for the remainder of the season. , Doing this will cause what leaves are left to scorch and fall off and may kill the weakened plant.

    Place the plant in full shade then move the plant out of the shade in two weeks to part shade then two weeks later to full or part sun for the remainder of the season.

    This will allow the plant to harden off and get used to the new conditions outside. , Fertilize every fifth watering or every two weeks (whichever comes last) with a poinsettia fertilizer or house plant fertilizer.

    Or, if you would like, try a diluted evergreen fertilizer to help promote leaf growth (at this stage all you want is leaf growth, no flowers). , This process can take up to 2 months and sometimes longer, depending on conditions and the variety of plant you have.

    Switch from a nitrogen based fertilizer to an even houseplant fertilizer or one made for poinsettias, and reduce fertilizing by half.

    Begin the routine of long nights/short days needed to initiate buds: 13 hours of uninterrupted darkness, 11 hours of bright sunshine each day.

    Keep temperatures in the low 60's at night.

    Turn pot regularly for even light. (Note:
    Darkness must be total
    - light from a street lamp or even that cast by headlights from passing cars is enough to disrupt bud formation.) Discontinue darkness routine after about 2 months and place plant in the sunniest window in the house.

    Reduce fertilizer: don't over water!
  3. Step 3: several applications of soapy water to the plant and potting soil should rid it of most infestations.

  4. Step 4: Place the plant in a cool (not cold) room with curtain filtered sunlight and cut back on the watering.

  5. Step 5: Decide what kind of plant you want to end up with for Christmas.

  6. Step 6: Do not set the plant in full sun at first.

  7. Step 7: Start watering regularly.

  8. Step 8: When it is time to bring the plant in for fall

  9. Step 9: start the processes of turning the top leaves red (or pink or whatever color they were last winter).

Detailed Guide

If the plant is infected, it is best to throw it out and purchase another for keeping over.

Mealy bugs are the main concern and can be removed by dabbing them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.

However, this should be done before the infection spreads or gets too large or you may never kill them all. , The plant should be allowed to go dry to the touch between watering and be watered only sparingly (over-watering is the leading cause of plant death in the winter months inside, the plant is not actively growing and is not taking up the normal food it would during the growing season, and if watered to much the plant will end up sitting in water and problems like moss, mold, rot and leaf yellow may accrue).

When the temperatures at night get above 10 C, the plant can then be moved outside. , If a small bushy plant is your goal, the entire plant should be trimmed down to about "inches above the main trunk.

If you want a larger plant, simply pinch the tops of each main branch and continue this until about July.

If a topiary is your goal, then remove all of the branches except for the tallest, straightest main branch and do not pinch the plant on the top, just remove the side shoots for the remainder of the season. , Doing this will cause what leaves are left to scorch and fall off and may kill the weakened plant.

Place the plant in full shade then move the plant out of the shade in two weeks to part shade then two weeks later to full or part sun for the remainder of the season.

This will allow the plant to harden off and get used to the new conditions outside. , Fertilize every fifth watering or every two weeks (whichever comes last) with a poinsettia fertilizer or house plant fertilizer.

Or, if you would like, try a diluted evergreen fertilizer to help promote leaf growth (at this stage all you want is leaf growth, no flowers). , This process can take up to 2 months and sometimes longer, depending on conditions and the variety of plant you have.

Switch from a nitrogen based fertilizer to an even houseplant fertilizer or one made for poinsettias, and reduce fertilizing by half.

Begin the routine of long nights/short days needed to initiate buds: 13 hours of uninterrupted darkness, 11 hours of bright sunshine each day.

Keep temperatures in the low 60's at night.

Turn pot regularly for even light. (Note:
Darkness must be total
- light from a street lamp or even that cast by headlights from passing cars is enough to disrupt bud formation.) Discontinue darkness routine after about 2 months and place plant in the sunniest window in the house.

Reduce fertilizer: don't over water!

About the Author

C

Charlotte Brown

With a background in writing and publishing, Charlotte Brown brings 3 years of hands-on experience to every article. Charlotte believes in making complex topics accessible to everyone.

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