How to Clean a Fish Tank
Get your cleaning supplies ready., Clean the sides of the aquarium with the algae pad., Decide how much water you are going to change., Siphon out the old water., Clean the gravel., Clean the decorations., Add fresh water., Consider adding aquarium...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Get your cleaning supplies ready.
Run through your checklist and ensure that you've prepped your tools and your workspace.
Properly prepared water in the quantity you'll need to replace.
An algae pad for cleaning the glass inside the tank.
A large bucket (5 gallons or 10 litres, and bigger) dedicated for this purpose.
A simple siphon-type gravel vacuum (NOT a battery-operated gadget).
Filter media (cartridges, sponges, carbon packets, and so on) if you're changing the filter this time.
Aquarium-safe glass cleaner or a vinegar-based solution. 10% bleach solution in a separate container (optional) Metal or plastic razor blade (optional, be careful with acrylic tanks, as these scratch easier) Also, Make sure that if your fish are pretty picky eaters, you put some water cleaner in with siphoning the water.
Siphon half the tank one week, then do the other tank 2-3 weeks later.
This will help your fish adjust to a cleaner climate. -
Step 2: Clean the sides of the aquarium with the algae pad.
Run it along the glass, scrubbing a little as necessary, to remove algae that is sticking to the aquarium.
If you come across a particularly difficult patch of residue, use a razor blade or plastic blade to scrape it off the glass.
You might want to wear rubber gloves to complete this job.
Make sure they haven't been treated with any chemicals.
Do not just use the sponge or scrubber from your kitchen sink or anything that could have the residue of detergent or cleaning chemicals.
A clean, tank-only algae pad will prevent harsh chemicals and detergents from getting into your tank.
This step can also be done after you take out 10-20% of the water. , If you clean your tank on a regular schedule and if your fish are healthy, changing 10-20% of the water once a week should be plenty.
If you have a sick fish, you'll want to change more of the water
- at least 25% to 50%. , Start the siphon and direct the old water into a pail, preferably a five-gallon bucket (or larger if necessary).
It's best to buy a new bucket and use it only for cleaning your fish tank; residue from soaps or detergents can be harmful to your fish.
This means no repurposing the laundry room bucket or the bucket that used to hold your dishwashing cleaning agents.
Aquarium siphons can be purchased that hook up to a sink.
If you have one of these, read over the instructions on how they work.
This type of siphon also prevents water spilling from the bucket.
You can also choose the suction of the water and the temperature when filling the tank using the taps. , Push the gravel vacuum through the gravel.
Fish waste, excess food, and other debris will be sucked into the the vacuum.
If you have very small, weak, or delicate fish, you can put a never-worn stocking over the end of the syphon (but be sure the mesh is large enough to get the debris).
If you have sand substrate, do not use the vacuum like a shovel.
Use just the hose part of the siphon, not the plastic tube, holding it under an inch from the surface to suck up waste without disturbing your sand.
You can use your fingers to run through the sand (provided there are no buried animals to disturb)to help gunk float up that might have gotten trapped under shifting sand. , Tank decorations need cleaning, too! Excess algae is caused by excess nutrients in the water.
You can wipe the decorations off with an algae pad or a never-used soft-bristled toothbrush in the tank water you siphoned out.
Avoid the use of soap; it could harm your fishy friend! If you're having difficulty cleaning the decorations, remove them from the tank and soak the items in a 10% bleach solution for 15 minutes.
Then pour boiling water over them and let them air dry before replacing them in the tank.
Be very careful to remove all bleach, as to not kill your fish.
If your decorations are covered in algae, you may want to feed your fish less or change the water more frequently.
Having a pleco in larger tanks can prevent algae from growing excessively. , Replace the water you took out with fresh, treated water at the temperature of the aquarium.
A thermometer is the way to verify the temperature.
Staying inside the dictated temperature parameters is crucial for the health of your fish.Remember, lukewarm is too hot for most fish.
If you use tap or faucet water, conditioning the water to remove heavy metals and other toxins that your fish can't process is a must.
The easiest thing to do is plan ahead; an old milk container works great.
Fill it up the day before and leave it uncovered; one day will allow the chlorine to evaporate and the water to become room temperature, the same as your tank.
If you are impulsive, a drop of Decleor will do the trick.
Just make sure the temperature is the same.
A significant change in temperature will kill your fish.
If the nitrates are astronomically high, you can do a special water change of 50% to 75% with distilled water (not normally recommended because the water is so purified, there are no trace nutritional elements for the fish to soak up).
You can also use bottled spring water for water changes (with no conditioner) because this water has none of the bad and all of the good elements. , Many fish (including Mollies, guppies and platies) live longer and healthier lives.
Fresh water aquarium salt also helps to prevent diseases such as ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis). , Wait a few hours for any cloudiness that remains to dissipate, leaving the water sparkling clear.
Although there are water clearing agents on the market, try not to use them.
If the water remains cloudy, it's because of an underlying problem and the agent will only mask (not solve) the issue.
Don't forget that your fish need some space between the water and the top of the tank, so that they have enough oxygen-carbon dioxide exchange to breathe and so that they can extend their top fin comfortably. , Wipe down the outside, including glass, hood, light and tank top.
The ammonia fumes from standard cleaners can hurt your fish, so only use solutions that are designated as aquarium-safe.
If you'd prefer to make your own cleaner, you can use a vinegar-based solution. , The carbon inside of the filter cartridge can become detrimental to your fishes' health if left unchanged.
Not much beneficial bacteria lives inside the filter, most is in the gravel, so changing it will not affect the biological filtration in any way.
The cartridge can be rinsed off weekly when water changes are performed if it appears to be excessively dirty, but you don't want to lose whatever bacteria does happen to set in in the filter.
Rinsing the filter cartridge does not substitute changing it, so it still has to be changed monthly. -
Step 3: Decide how much water you are going to change.
-
Step 4: Siphon out the old water.
-
Step 5: Clean the gravel.
-
Step 6: Clean the decorations.
-
Step 7: Add fresh water.
-
Step 8: Consider adding aquarium salt for fresh water.
-
Step 9: Watch the water.
-
Step 10: Clean the exterior.
-
Step 11: Change the filter cartridge about once a month.
Detailed Guide
Run through your checklist and ensure that you've prepped your tools and your workspace.
Properly prepared water in the quantity you'll need to replace.
An algae pad for cleaning the glass inside the tank.
A large bucket (5 gallons or 10 litres, and bigger) dedicated for this purpose.
A simple siphon-type gravel vacuum (NOT a battery-operated gadget).
Filter media (cartridges, sponges, carbon packets, and so on) if you're changing the filter this time.
Aquarium-safe glass cleaner or a vinegar-based solution. 10% bleach solution in a separate container (optional) Metal or plastic razor blade (optional, be careful with acrylic tanks, as these scratch easier) Also, Make sure that if your fish are pretty picky eaters, you put some water cleaner in with siphoning the water.
Siphon half the tank one week, then do the other tank 2-3 weeks later.
This will help your fish adjust to a cleaner climate.
Run it along the glass, scrubbing a little as necessary, to remove algae that is sticking to the aquarium.
If you come across a particularly difficult patch of residue, use a razor blade or plastic blade to scrape it off the glass.
You might want to wear rubber gloves to complete this job.
Make sure they haven't been treated with any chemicals.
Do not just use the sponge or scrubber from your kitchen sink or anything that could have the residue of detergent or cleaning chemicals.
A clean, tank-only algae pad will prevent harsh chemicals and detergents from getting into your tank.
This step can also be done after you take out 10-20% of the water. , If you clean your tank on a regular schedule and if your fish are healthy, changing 10-20% of the water once a week should be plenty.
If you have a sick fish, you'll want to change more of the water
- at least 25% to 50%. , Start the siphon and direct the old water into a pail, preferably a five-gallon bucket (or larger if necessary).
It's best to buy a new bucket and use it only for cleaning your fish tank; residue from soaps or detergents can be harmful to your fish.
This means no repurposing the laundry room bucket or the bucket that used to hold your dishwashing cleaning agents.
Aquarium siphons can be purchased that hook up to a sink.
If you have one of these, read over the instructions on how they work.
This type of siphon also prevents water spilling from the bucket.
You can also choose the suction of the water and the temperature when filling the tank using the taps. , Push the gravel vacuum through the gravel.
Fish waste, excess food, and other debris will be sucked into the the vacuum.
If you have very small, weak, or delicate fish, you can put a never-worn stocking over the end of the syphon (but be sure the mesh is large enough to get the debris).
If you have sand substrate, do not use the vacuum like a shovel.
Use just the hose part of the siphon, not the plastic tube, holding it under an inch from the surface to suck up waste without disturbing your sand.
You can use your fingers to run through the sand (provided there are no buried animals to disturb)to help gunk float up that might have gotten trapped under shifting sand. , Tank decorations need cleaning, too! Excess algae is caused by excess nutrients in the water.
You can wipe the decorations off with an algae pad or a never-used soft-bristled toothbrush in the tank water you siphoned out.
Avoid the use of soap; it could harm your fishy friend! If you're having difficulty cleaning the decorations, remove them from the tank and soak the items in a 10% bleach solution for 15 minutes.
Then pour boiling water over them and let them air dry before replacing them in the tank.
Be very careful to remove all bleach, as to not kill your fish.
If your decorations are covered in algae, you may want to feed your fish less or change the water more frequently.
Having a pleco in larger tanks can prevent algae from growing excessively. , Replace the water you took out with fresh, treated water at the temperature of the aquarium.
A thermometer is the way to verify the temperature.
Staying inside the dictated temperature parameters is crucial for the health of your fish.Remember, lukewarm is too hot for most fish.
If you use tap or faucet water, conditioning the water to remove heavy metals and other toxins that your fish can't process is a must.
The easiest thing to do is plan ahead; an old milk container works great.
Fill it up the day before and leave it uncovered; one day will allow the chlorine to evaporate and the water to become room temperature, the same as your tank.
If you are impulsive, a drop of Decleor will do the trick.
Just make sure the temperature is the same.
A significant change in temperature will kill your fish.
If the nitrates are astronomically high, you can do a special water change of 50% to 75% with distilled water (not normally recommended because the water is so purified, there are no trace nutritional elements for the fish to soak up).
You can also use bottled spring water for water changes (with no conditioner) because this water has none of the bad and all of the good elements. , Many fish (including Mollies, guppies and platies) live longer and healthier lives.
Fresh water aquarium salt also helps to prevent diseases such as ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis). , Wait a few hours for any cloudiness that remains to dissipate, leaving the water sparkling clear.
Although there are water clearing agents on the market, try not to use them.
If the water remains cloudy, it's because of an underlying problem and the agent will only mask (not solve) the issue.
Don't forget that your fish need some space between the water and the top of the tank, so that they have enough oxygen-carbon dioxide exchange to breathe and so that they can extend their top fin comfortably. , Wipe down the outside, including glass, hood, light and tank top.
The ammonia fumes from standard cleaners can hurt your fish, so only use solutions that are designated as aquarium-safe.
If you'd prefer to make your own cleaner, you can use a vinegar-based solution. , The carbon inside of the filter cartridge can become detrimental to your fishes' health if left unchanged.
Not much beneficial bacteria lives inside the filter, most is in the gravel, so changing it will not affect the biological filtration in any way.
The cartridge can be rinsed off weekly when water changes are performed if it appears to be excessively dirty, but you don't want to lose whatever bacteria does happen to set in in the filter.
Rinsing the filter cartridge does not substitute changing it, so it still has to be changed monthly.
About the Author
Sara Brown
Enthusiastic about teaching DIY projects techniques through clear, step-by-step guides.
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