How to Do Budding in Plants
Cut a “budstick” from its source., Carve a “bud shield” for grafting., Make a T-cut in the new plant., Create a pocket., Trim the bud shield if needed., Graft the bud shield to the root stock.
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Cut a “budstick” from its source.
Search for fully matured buds growing along the original plant (often called a “scion” in budding).
Prioritize branches that are still actively growing well away from the plant’s stem, on the outside of the scion’s canopy.
Look for buds that appear fat and healthy where leaf stems grow from the branch.
Cut the branch from the scion and then snip away any leaves from the branch.
This is now your “budstick.”When cutting away the leaves, make your cut at the base of the blades so that the stem is still attached to the branch.
Matured buds of one species of plant may look considerably different from another.
Search online for images and descriptions for the particular plant that you are budding. -
Step 2: Carve a “bud shield” for grafting.
Hold the bud stick so that the leaf stem is pointing away from you.
Use a sharpened knife to begin your cut roughly a half-inch below the stem’s base.
Slice into the bud stick toward the leaf stem.
Curve your blade into the wood and then outward, in a crescent-moon motion, so that it comes out a half-inch above the stem.
You should now have a small shaving of wood to graft into a new plant, the bud itself, and the leaf stem to use as a handle, all in one piece (this piece is called a “bud shield”).To make sure the bud doesn’t go flying, remove the blade from the budstick just before it breaks the surface on its way out.
From the outside, slice a cut a half-inch above the stem, as though crossing a “T” along the top of your original cut.
These cuts should be as smooth as possible.
Rough sawing actions with your knife will prevent the wood from successfully grafting with the new plant. , Choose a smooth spot on the stem of the new plant (called a “root stock”) to graft your bud to.
Make the vertical cut first, from top to bottom, along the stem.
Keep it to the same size as the length of your bud shield.
Then make a horizontal cut along the top to form your “T.”Alternately, you can make your horizontal cut along the bottom of the vertical cut.
This will allow excess water or sap to drain from the root stock more efficiently. , Peel the bark away from your T-cut.
Start from the inside corners where the vertical and horizontal cuts meet.
Peel outward until a triangle of the plant’s tissue is exposed.
Stop here, without tearing the peeled bark off the stem.If the bark resists peeling, this may be a sign that the root stock has not fully recovered from its winter dormancy.
Wait until its dormant cycle is completely over before grafting.
Usually this is during the height of summer., Hold the bud shield by its leaf stem.
Line it up with the vertical cut in the root stock.
Place the bud shield’s wood shaving against the root stock’s exposed tissue.
If the top of the wood shaving is higher than the root stock’s horizontal cut, cut off the extra wood so that it doesn’t stick out., Once the bud shield lines up perfectly with the root stock’s vertical cut, line the two up.
Smooth the two flaps of peeled bark over the bud shield to cover it.
Wind grafting tape around and around the root stock to seal the graft, leaving only the bud shield’s leaf stem and bud exposed.
Let the plant heal for two to three weeks, then remove the grafting tape.
Trim the root stock above the bud shield to motivate growth from the scion budIf it is too late in the season to expect growth immediately, wait until winter to trim the top of the root stock.
Budding rubbers, which break down naturally, can be used instead of grafting tape. -
Step 3: Make a T-cut in the new plant.
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Step 4: Create a pocket.
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Step 5: Trim the bud shield if needed.
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Step 6: Graft the bud shield to the root stock.
Detailed Guide
Search for fully matured buds growing along the original plant (often called a “scion” in budding).
Prioritize branches that are still actively growing well away from the plant’s stem, on the outside of the scion’s canopy.
Look for buds that appear fat and healthy where leaf stems grow from the branch.
Cut the branch from the scion and then snip away any leaves from the branch.
This is now your “budstick.”When cutting away the leaves, make your cut at the base of the blades so that the stem is still attached to the branch.
Matured buds of one species of plant may look considerably different from another.
Search online for images and descriptions for the particular plant that you are budding.
Hold the bud stick so that the leaf stem is pointing away from you.
Use a sharpened knife to begin your cut roughly a half-inch below the stem’s base.
Slice into the bud stick toward the leaf stem.
Curve your blade into the wood and then outward, in a crescent-moon motion, so that it comes out a half-inch above the stem.
You should now have a small shaving of wood to graft into a new plant, the bud itself, and the leaf stem to use as a handle, all in one piece (this piece is called a “bud shield”).To make sure the bud doesn’t go flying, remove the blade from the budstick just before it breaks the surface on its way out.
From the outside, slice a cut a half-inch above the stem, as though crossing a “T” along the top of your original cut.
These cuts should be as smooth as possible.
Rough sawing actions with your knife will prevent the wood from successfully grafting with the new plant. , Choose a smooth spot on the stem of the new plant (called a “root stock”) to graft your bud to.
Make the vertical cut first, from top to bottom, along the stem.
Keep it to the same size as the length of your bud shield.
Then make a horizontal cut along the top to form your “T.”Alternately, you can make your horizontal cut along the bottom of the vertical cut.
This will allow excess water or sap to drain from the root stock more efficiently. , Peel the bark away from your T-cut.
Start from the inside corners where the vertical and horizontal cuts meet.
Peel outward until a triangle of the plant’s tissue is exposed.
Stop here, without tearing the peeled bark off the stem.If the bark resists peeling, this may be a sign that the root stock has not fully recovered from its winter dormancy.
Wait until its dormant cycle is completely over before grafting.
Usually this is during the height of summer., Hold the bud shield by its leaf stem.
Line it up with the vertical cut in the root stock.
Place the bud shield’s wood shaving against the root stock’s exposed tissue.
If the top of the wood shaving is higher than the root stock’s horizontal cut, cut off the extra wood so that it doesn’t stick out., Once the bud shield lines up perfectly with the root stock’s vertical cut, line the two up.
Smooth the two flaps of peeled bark over the bud shield to cover it.
Wind grafting tape around and around the root stock to seal the graft, leaving only the bud shield’s leaf stem and bud exposed.
Let the plant heal for two to three weeks, then remove the grafting tape.
Trim the root stock above the bud shield to motivate growth from the scion budIf it is too late in the season to expect growth immediately, wait until winter to trim the top of the root stock.
Budding rubbers, which break down naturally, can be used instead of grafting tape.
About the Author
Frances Chavez
Writer and educator with a focus on practical lifestyle knowledge.
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