How to Install Carpet

Step-by-Step Guide

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   Step 1: Your first step is to get rid of the old carpet.

   Start by removing the moldings around the floor and take the door off the entrance, so you can get the old carpet out and the new carpet in easier.
   
   Give the old carpet a good vacuuming so you won't be breathing in dust, and then use a utility knife to cut the carpet into strips about 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to
   1.2 m) wide (most cities require that for pick up)
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   Step 2: Start at one end and pull the carpet off the tackless strips and roll it up in sections.

   Some people feel that you can reuse the existing underlay, but in most cases it will be worn out just like the carpet, so you're better off getting rid of it as well. , This is a good time to check your sub-floor and securely fasten any floorboards that may be loose so they won't squeak under the new carpet (use 1 1/2" screws into the underlying floor joists). , Leave a space of about 1/2" between the strips and the wall, and be sure the pins or tacks face towards the wall. (They're called tackless strips even though they have two or three rows or very sharp tacks, because using these "tackless strips" means you don't need to "tack" carpet down.) At corners, make sure the tackless strips are butted tightly against each other. , Butt the strips against each other
   - don't overlap them
   - then staple the underlay down along the inside edge of the tackless strip.
   
   Trim the excess underlay along the inside of the tackless strip and use duct tape to seal the seams. a small bead of glue can be used on concrete floors to hold the pad in place. , The overlay can then be trimmed so the carpet fits properly.
   
   To cut your first section, measure the room at its longest point and add 6 inches (15.2 cm) to that measurement.
   
   Mark the back of your carpet on both edges with that measurement and join the two marks with a chalk line.
   
   Fold the carpet over on itself, and using a straight edge and a sharp utility knife, cut through the backside of your carpet.
   
   Be sure to place a piece of scrap board underneath your cut line to protect the underlying carpet. , Be sure the carpet pile is running the same way in both pieces, and that the carpet piece is large enough to overlap the wall by 4 to 6 inches (10.2 to
   15.2 cm), as well as overlapping the first piece of carpet by 4 to 6 inches (10.2 to
   15.2 cm). (Try to layout your carpet pieces so the seams won't be in noticeable areas, but obviously sometimes that just isn't possible.) , After cutting the carpet, center a piece of seaming tape on the floor underneath where they join, adhesive side up.
   
   Use the seaming iron to activate the adhesive (the iron goes on the tape, not on top of the carpet), and then butt the edges together and seal the seam with a rolling pin or a carpet roller. , A knee kicker is a solid metal tool about 18" long with "teeth" that will grip the carpet on one end, and a heavily padded "butt" on the other.
   
   Place the toothed end of the kicker about 3" from the wall and drive your knee forcefully into the padded end of the tool.
   
   This will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip where the tacks will grab it and hold it firmly in place. , A carpet stretcher is similar to knee kicker, but much longer.
   
   Put one end of the carpet stretcher against the wall where the carpet is already attached and place the other end about 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the far wall.
   
   The carpet stretcher also has teeth to grip the carpet, and when you push on the activation lever, it will stretch the carpet over the tackless strip near the far wall. ,, At the doorway, trim the carpet so the edge is centered under the closed door and install a door edge strip.
   
   Finally, cut any vent openings and install the molding on the baseboards. , Stretch your back, check to see if your knees still work, and then take some time to admire what all your hard work has accomplished. ,
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   Step 3: DO NOT REMOVE THE TACKSTRIPS and make sure the floor is clean and dry.

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   Step 4: Install new tackless strips if it is new construction or you are going over hardwood floor or vinyl around the perimeter of the room

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   Step 5: but not in front of doorways.

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   Step 6: Put the under pad down in strips that butt up to or reach the tackless strips.

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   Step 7: To install carpet properly

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   Step 8: you need to start with a piece that overlaps the edge of the floor by 4 to 6 inches (10.2 to 15.2 cm).

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   Step 9: If your room is wide enough that you're going to need another piece of carpet

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    Step 10: follow the same process with the second piece - measure

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    Step 11: mark and trim.

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    Step 12: Where the carpet pieces will join

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    Step 13: overlap the two pieces

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    Step 14: and then using a utility knife or a rented seam cutter

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    Step 15: cut through both pieces of carpet

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    Step 16: ensuring the edges will match exactly.

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    Step 17: Use a knee kicker to attach the carpet along one edge.

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    Step 18: A carpet stretcher will finish attaching the carpet.

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    Step 19: Work your way around the room stretching the carpet over the tackless strips

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    Step 20: and trim the carpet near the wall with a utility knife or a wall trimmer.

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    Step 21: Using a stair tool

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    Step 22: tuck the carpet down into the gap between the tackless strips and the wall.

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    Step 23: That's it.

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    Step 24: Finished.

Detailed Guide

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