How to Paint Pottery
First make sure you know what cone your bisque ware has been fired to., Select a soft paintbrush., Rinse your bisque ware quickly under cold water to remove dust and other impurities that may cause glaze defects., If you have a banding wheel, use...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: First make sure you know what cone your bisque ware has been fired to.
Choose a glaze that is made for that cone level! -
Step 2: Select a soft paintbrush.
Some people prefer large, flat Chinese wash brushes.
Make sure the brush is clean! , Do not dry it, it will dry on its own fairly quickly.
Besides, a little dampness will help the glaze go on more smoothly. ,, Then make sure the lid is on tightly and shake it up. , Pour some glaze into the bowl or pot and swirl it around so that it covers the entire inside, then pour it back into the bottle.
If the inside has holes or the shape is not conducive to this method, then paint 3 coats on the inside.
If you are pouring it in, you only need ONE COAT.
Do not bother painting the rim yet.... , Try not to get any glaze on the bottom of the pot.
If it is high fire clay and glaze (cone 3 or higher), then leave at least 1/4" before the bottom of the pot unglazed.
Some people use wax. ,,,,,,, Read the labels! , You just paint enough to cover and fire them on, then clear glaze them with 2-3 coats of transparent glaze and fire them again. , Just make sure you have about 3 coats of glaze for the best results.
Too little and the results will be streaky and not shiny, too much and it will run and drip and ruin your pots and shelves. -
Step 3: Rinse your bisque ware quickly under cold water to remove dust and other impurities that may cause glaze defects.
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Step 4: If you have a banding wheel
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Step 5: use it!
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Step 6: Stir your glaze thoroughly with a clean fork.
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Step 7: Glaze the inside first.
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Step 8: Turn the pot upside down on the banding wheel and paint 3 coats over the outside.
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Step 9: After the glaze is dry enough to handle
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Step 10: then turn it right side up and paint the rim with 2-3 coats and touch up any missed areas.
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Step 11: Let the pot dry and wipe off the bottom with a damp sponge prior to firing.
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Step 12: Fire it to the correct cone.
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Step 13: I usually have an assembly line of pots that I glaze this way
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Step 14: except that I layer multiple colors for interesting effects.
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Step 15: Experiment and make test tiles for more predictable results.
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Step 16: Keep a notebook so that you can remember combinations of glazes that works and doesn't work.
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Step 17: Always use lead-free glazes.
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Step 18: Under glazes are fun to use to if you like to paint a lot of detail.
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Step 19: Have fun
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Step 20: I personally love glazing by brushing
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Step 21: to me it is more exciting and personal that dipping in large vats of glaze.
Detailed Guide
Choose a glaze that is made for that cone level!
Some people prefer large, flat Chinese wash brushes.
Make sure the brush is clean! , Do not dry it, it will dry on its own fairly quickly.
Besides, a little dampness will help the glaze go on more smoothly. ,, Then make sure the lid is on tightly and shake it up. , Pour some glaze into the bowl or pot and swirl it around so that it covers the entire inside, then pour it back into the bottle.
If the inside has holes or the shape is not conducive to this method, then paint 3 coats on the inside.
If you are pouring it in, you only need ONE COAT.
Do not bother painting the rim yet.... , Try not to get any glaze on the bottom of the pot.
If it is high fire clay and glaze (cone 3 or higher), then leave at least 1/4" before the bottom of the pot unglazed.
Some people use wax. ,,,,,,, Read the labels! , You just paint enough to cover and fire them on, then clear glaze them with 2-3 coats of transparent glaze and fire them again. , Just make sure you have about 3 coats of glaze for the best results.
Too little and the results will be streaky and not shiny, too much and it will run and drip and ruin your pots and shelves.
About the Author
Kayla Henderson
Specializes in breaking down complex lifestyle topics into simple steps.
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