How to Prune a Pear Tree
Select a central leader and scaffold branches.Once the buds of the tree grow out to about 4 or 5 inches (10 to 12.7 cm), choose a branch to act as a central leader, as well as three to six scaffolds or side branches., Head back the central leader...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Select a central leader and scaffold branches.Once the buds of the tree grow out to about 4 or 5 inches (10 to 12.7 cm)
Remove the rest of the branches.
The central leader should come up from out of the trunk toward the center of the tree.
It should come directly from the base of the tree and should not be growing out of another branch.
The scaffolds should be spaced apart at equal intervals around the trunk and should be spaced apart roughly 6 inches (15.25 cm) vertically.
When cutting away the rest of the branches, cut off the entire branch from the base of the trunk.
The cut should be made just along the outside edge of the collar–where the branch meets the tree.
If you only cut off a portion, the branch will grow back and create structural problems. -
Step 2: choose a branch to act as a central leader
During the second dormant season, cut back the central leader by about one-third its current length to stimulate more vigorous growth.
The cut should be close to a bud growing at an angle greater than 45 degrees.
Alternatively, you could also make the cut near a lateral branch you intend to keep. , Remove the branch at its base, where the branch meets the trunk of the tree.
Oversized branches include any branch with a diameter that exceeds one-half to one-third the diameter of the central leader. , During the second year, you should also remove any damaged branches and any healthy branch that extends out from the trunk at a near vertical angle.
A near-vertical branch includes any branch extending out at an angle less than 45 degrees.
Ideally, however, branches should extend out at between 60 and 75 degrees. , The pruning you do should be kept to a minimum during the first three years so that the tree can produce enough fruiting wood.
Follow the same pruning suggestions made for the second year during the third year.
Head back the central leader by one-half to one-third its current height, eliminate oversized branches, remove damaged branches, and cut off vertical branches.
After the first three years, you can prune the pear tree to produce a crop. , You should do the majority of your heavy pruning during the dormant season, when the tree is not in a state of active growth.
If you live in an area prone to frost, pruning later in the dormant season might be better than pruning early on.
Do the majority of your pruning during the late winter or early spring, before the first leaves and buds begin to form. , This includes branches that are weak, diseased, dead, or otherwise damaged.
It also includes branches growing out in an improper manner.Cut away branches that cross or rub against each other.
Fruit production will be low on these branches, and bark injury is likely to occur, which could invite disease and various pests.
Cut away whichever branch is less productive of the two.
Remove stubs and broken branches since diseases and insects are likely to attack these areas.
Remove downward growing branches.
These do not yield much fruit and can cause problems with rubbing and shade.Cut off whorls, or branches that originate from the same place on the trunk or limb.
The joints there are weak and prone to breaking.
Select the strongest branch and remove the rest.
Prune away branches that grow out at an angle less than 45 degrees from the trunk of the tree. , Use a sharp pruning saw to remove oversized branches that have grown at an excessively rapid pace.
Pear trees have a low yield when they do not receive enough light, and oversized branches generally cause problems by creating too much shade.
As always, cut the branch off at its base, where it meets the trunk of the tree.
Generally, you can spot an oversized branch by comparing it to your original central leader.
An oversized branch will usually be more than three-quarters the diameter of the central leader.
You only want to eliminate two to three interior branches a year.
If you need to get rid of more, spread the work out over two to three winters. , If any branch has grown too long, head them back by cutting the branch to the length of a vigorous lower branch.
The lower branch you choose should be directly below the branch you head off, and it should also be at least one-third of the diameter of the branch being cut back. , Pruning the healthy branches will encourage more vigorous growth.
Shorten the previous year's growth on each main branch by cutting away roughly one-third of it.
Make sure that the bud you cut the branch back to faces an appropriate direction.
Young lateral branches growing out of the main framework should be shortened to five or six buds. , Pear trees bear fruit on short spurs that grow in between the main branches.
Thin these spurs out every few years to encourage better yield.
Completely remove old spurs every two to three years so that they can be replaced by new ones.
If too many small branches grow from these spurs in a single year, thin them out to one or two branches so that the remaining branches will not have to compete for resources. , These are vigorous shoots that appear at the base of the tree or at the location of a previous pruning cut.
They drain nutrients from the tree and should be removed as you spot them.
Cut the shoot off at its base.
If the shoot extends out from the wood of the tree, cut it off where the shoot meets the healthy wood.
If the shoot extends from below the ground at the base of the trunk, cut the shoot off at ground level. , You should cut off any wood damaged by fire blight or similar diseases as you spot it to prevent the infection from spreading to healthy branches.
Fire blight is especially common with pear trees.
The leaves and twigs of a pear tree get fire blight when an infected insect enters fresh buds and growth during the spring.
To save the rest of your tree after an infection occurs, you need to prune the affected shoots at least 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10 cm) below the damaged area.When pruning diseased wood, make sure that you sterilize your pruning shears in a chlorine solution in between cuts. , While not strictly essential, you can prevent too much fruit from going to waste by thinning out the buds after the fruit has set.
Leave at least 5 inches (12.7 cm) of space in between pieces of fruit.
The process reduces the overall yield, but ultimately increases the health and quality of the remaining fruit. -
Step 3: as well as three to six scaffolds or side branches.
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Step 4: Head back the central leader during the second year.
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Step 5: Eliminate oversized branches during the second year.You can have more than six side branches during the second year
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Step 6: but branches that are too thick or large can compete with the central leader and should be removed.
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Step 7: Remove other undesirable branches.
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Step 8: Train prune for the first three years.
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Step 9: Prune during the dormant season.
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Step 10: Remove any branch that threatens the health of the tree.
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Step 11: Open up the tree.
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Step 12: Reduce any excessive height and spread.
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Step 13: Shorten the previous year's growth overall.
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Step 14: Focus on the spurs.
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Step 15: Remove watersprouts and rootsuckers.
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Step 16: Cut off diseased wood.
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Step 17: Thin out the fruit.
Detailed Guide
Remove the rest of the branches.
The central leader should come up from out of the trunk toward the center of the tree.
It should come directly from the base of the tree and should not be growing out of another branch.
The scaffolds should be spaced apart at equal intervals around the trunk and should be spaced apart roughly 6 inches (15.25 cm) vertically.
When cutting away the rest of the branches, cut off the entire branch from the base of the trunk.
The cut should be made just along the outside edge of the collar–where the branch meets the tree.
If you only cut off a portion, the branch will grow back and create structural problems.
During the second dormant season, cut back the central leader by about one-third its current length to stimulate more vigorous growth.
The cut should be close to a bud growing at an angle greater than 45 degrees.
Alternatively, you could also make the cut near a lateral branch you intend to keep. , Remove the branch at its base, where the branch meets the trunk of the tree.
Oversized branches include any branch with a diameter that exceeds one-half to one-third the diameter of the central leader. , During the second year, you should also remove any damaged branches and any healthy branch that extends out from the trunk at a near vertical angle.
A near-vertical branch includes any branch extending out at an angle less than 45 degrees.
Ideally, however, branches should extend out at between 60 and 75 degrees. , The pruning you do should be kept to a minimum during the first three years so that the tree can produce enough fruiting wood.
Follow the same pruning suggestions made for the second year during the third year.
Head back the central leader by one-half to one-third its current height, eliminate oversized branches, remove damaged branches, and cut off vertical branches.
After the first three years, you can prune the pear tree to produce a crop. , You should do the majority of your heavy pruning during the dormant season, when the tree is not in a state of active growth.
If you live in an area prone to frost, pruning later in the dormant season might be better than pruning early on.
Do the majority of your pruning during the late winter or early spring, before the first leaves and buds begin to form. , This includes branches that are weak, diseased, dead, or otherwise damaged.
It also includes branches growing out in an improper manner.Cut away branches that cross or rub against each other.
Fruit production will be low on these branches, and bark injury is likely to occur, which could invite disease and various pests.
Cut away whichever branch is less productive of the two.
Remove stubs and broken branches since diseases and insects are likely to attack these areas.
Remove downward growing branches.
These do not yield much fruit and can cause problems with rubbing and shade.Cut off whorls, or branches that originate from the same place on the trunk or limb.
The joints there are weak and prone to breaking.
Select the strongest branch and remove the rest.
Prune away branches that grow out at an angle less than 45 degrees from the trunk of the tree. , Use a sharp pruning saw to remove oversized branches that have grown at an excessively rapid pace.
Pear trees have a low yield when they do not receive enough light, and oversized branches generally cause problems by creating too much shade.
As always, cut the branch off at its base, where it meets the trunk of the tree.
Generally, you can spot an oversized branch by comparing it to your original central leader.
An oversized branch will usually be more than three-quarters the diameter of the central leader.
You only want to eliminate two to three interior branches a year.
If you need to get rid of more, spread the work out over two to three winters. , If any branch has grown too long, head them back by cutting the branch to the length of a vigorous lower branch.
The lower branch you choose should be directly below the branch you head off, and it should also be at least one-third of the diameter of the branch being cut back. , Pruning the healthy branches will encourage more vigorous growth.
Shorten the previous year's growth on each main branch by cutting away roughly one-third of it.
Make sure that the bud you cut the branch back to faces an appropriate direction.
Young lateral branches growing out of the main framework should be shortened to five or six buds. , Pear trees bear fruit on short spurs that grow in between the main branches.
Thin these spurs out every few years to encourage better yield.
Completely remove old spurs every two to three years so that they can be replaced by new ones.
If too many small branches grow from these spurs in a single year, thin them out to one or two branches so that the remaining branches will not have to compete for resources. , These are vigorous shoots that appear at the base of the tree or at the location of a previous pruning cut.
They drain nutrients from the tree and should be removed as you spot them.
Cut the shoot off at its base.
If the shoot extends out from the wood of the tree, cut it off where the shoot meets the healthy wood.
If the shoot extends from below the ground at the base of the trunk, cut the shoot off at ground level. , You should cut off any wood damaged by fire blight or similar diseases as you spot it to prevent the infection from spreading to healthy branches.
Fire blight is especially common with pear trees.
The leaves and twigs of a pear tree get fire blight when an infected insect enters fresh buds and growth during the spring.
To save the rest of your tree after an infection occurs, you need to prune the affected shoots at least 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10 cm) below the damaged area.When pruning diseased wood, make sure that you sterilize your pruning shears in a chlorine solution in between cuts. , While not strictly essential, you can prevent too much fruit from going to waste by thinning out the buds after the fruit has set.
Leave at least 5 inches (12.7 cm) of space in between pieces of fruit.
The process reduces the overall yield, but ultimately increases the health and quality of the remaining fruit.
About the Author
Natalie Hill
Committed to making creative arts accessible and understandable for everyone.
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