How to Seal and Patch Your Basement Walls and Floors

Preparation: On unpainted concrete surfaces, proper preparation includes washing with trisodium phosphate (TSP)., Application: After simple one-to-one mixing of my two part epoxy (I can mix one gallon at a time and easily apply it by myself without...

13 Steps 2 min read Medium

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Preparation: On unpainted concrete surfaces

    This will get your basement walls and floor ready for application of your coating.

    With the two-part water base epoxy coating that I use, an application over a damp surface helps the first coat penetrate into the concrete for a deep bond.
  2. Step 2: proper preparation includes washing with trisodium phosphate (TSP).

    The material will seep into the porous concrete like a first coat of paint would.

    I like to apply with 1/2" or 3/8" nap rollers for a nice, thick coat that is applied at a rate of 125 to 150 square feet per gallon on walls and 175 to 200 square feet per gallon on floors. ,, I find that using hydraulic cement is only a temporary patch because the material is so brittle.

    Concrete by itself is worse.

    I use the two-part epoxy coating mixed with Sand Mix or Portland Cement and sand mixed with the epoxy for all crack-filling, unless it is actively leaking.

    Also, I prefer to patch the walls after applying my first coat of the epoxy coating, which acts a primer for patching.

    I then apply my second coat for a beautifully painted surface.

    A great trick for the cold joint or floor joint is to use the back of a spoon for a nice smooth cove.

    This method forces the mortar deep into the joint, the polymer in the mix allowing some flexibility and movement. ,, They can be dangerous to work with in tight areas. , Now what are you going to do?
  3. Step 3: Application: After simple one-to-one mixing of my two part epoxy (I can mix one gallon at a time and easily apply it by myself without a problem)

  4. Step 4: I apply the first coat with rollers and cut in with paint brush.

  5. Step 5: The second coat adheres to the first for a pinhole free application.

  6. Step 6: Patching cracks

  7. Step 7: snap tie holes and the cold joint where the floor meets the wall is the only way sealing the basement will work.

  8. Step 8: Avoid clear coatings

  9. Step 9: since they don't cover up the surfaces you have coated and repaired

  10. Step 10: which are likely unsightly.

  11. Step 11: Avoid coatings loaded with solvents and VOCs.

  12. Step 12: Avoid coatings without money back guarantees in case of failure

  13. Step 13: including companies known to not honor theirs.

Detailed Guide

This will get your basement walls and floor ready for application of your coating.

With the two-part water base epoxy coating that I use, an application over a damp surface helps the first coat penetrate into the concrete for a deep bond.

The material will seep into the porous concrete like a first coat of paint would.

I like to apply with 1/2" or 3/8" nap rollers for a nice, thick coat that is applied at a rate of 125 to 150 square feet per gallon on walls and 175 to 200 square feet per gallon on floors. ,, I find that using hydraulic cement is only a temporary patch because the material is so brittle.

Concrete by itself is worse.

I use the two-part epoxy coating mixed with Sand Mix or Portland Cement and sand mixed with the epoxy for all crack-filling, unless it is actively leaking.

Also, I prefer to patch the walls after applying my first coat of the epoxy coating, which acts a primer for patching.

I then apply my second coat for a beautifully painted surface.

A great trick for the cold joint or floor joint is to use the back of a spoon for a nice smooth cove.

This method forces the mortar deep into the joint, the polymer in the mix allowing some flexibility and movement. ,, They can be dangerous to work with in tight areas. , Now what are you going to do?

About the Author

C

Carolyn Wood

Dedicated to helping readers learn new skills in home improvement and beyond.

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