How to Whitewash Furniture
Place the furniture over a drop cloth., Remove old sealant with a chemical stripper (optional)., Wash the furniture with vinegar and water., Sand the furniture., Wipe with a clean cloth.This removes the dust sanding creates, and results in a clean...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Place the furniture over a drop cloth.
You can use newspapers instead, or any other material to catch the drips. -
Step 2: Remove old sealant with a chemical stripper (optional).
If the wood is covered with a sealant, using a chemical stripper gets rid of it much quicker than sandpaper:
Warning: chemical strippers are extremely caustic.
Use only in ventilated areas and cover your skin, eyes, and mouth (with a respirator).Brush the stripper onto the wood with as few strokes as possible.
Cover the whole surface, but manipulate the stripper as little as possible for maximum results.
Wait 3–5 minutes while the stripper dissolves the sealant.
Scrape the dissolved "goop" off the wood.
Steel wool is helpful for hard to reach corners.
If you use chemical stripper, do not skip washing the wood with vinegar and water.
This will neutralize the stripper and make the wood safe to work with and able to hold whitewash. (Alternatively, you can use turpentine, mineral spirits, or a paint neutralizer.), Dilute white vinegar with equal parts water and use it to wash the wood.
The vinegar solution is effective at removing stains and dirt which could cause the whitewash to apply unevenly.
Treating the wood this way also enhances its ability to absorb the whitewash.Wait for the furniture to dry completely before continuing. , Gently use a medium or fine grit sandpaperor sander to rub the surfaces you will whitewash.
This gives the wood an even texture and makes the whitewash attach strongly and evenly.If the piece has an existing layer of paint, lacquer, or stain, you'll need to sand it off entirely.,, You can buy this ready made as "wood stain" or "white wash pickling"
or make your own by mixing paint and water.
When mixing your own, a 2:1 ratio of latex paint and water will create a very thick layer of whitewash, while a 1:1 and 1:2 ratio result in successively thinner mixes.
Similarly, you can make your own whitewash by mixing turpentine into an oil-based paint until the desired consistency is reached.
For both homemade and store-bought products, stir the mixture thoroughly before using.
Any "stain" or "pickling" should work for any type of wood.
Purchase a whitewash stain, not a whitewash paint.
The latter is a lime and chalk based paint, which will take much longer to dry and obscure the wood grain. , Use a paint brush, foam roller, or clean rag to apply long strokes to the surface of the furniture.
As the mixture will dry more quickly than standard paint, apply the whitewash product in relatively small sections rather than attempting to coat the entire piece.
For oak or other wood with large grain and pores, apply the whitewash against the grain to ensure it covers the contour of the wood.
This technique is called "pickling".
For pine and most other woods, apply the whitewash in the direction of the wood grain for best results.
It may be quickest to apply the whitewash in long, even strips the length of the surface, allowing you to wipe off the excess (see below) in one motion before moving to the next strip.Use a sponge to whitewash hard to reach areas such as corners., Before the whitewash dries, use a clean rag to rub the whitewash into the grain and knots of the wood and even the brush strokes into one level coating.This is especially important for oak and other wood with large pores.
You can skip this step if you prefer the intentional "amateur" look of individual brush strokes. , Before the whitewash can completely dry, use a clean cloth to wipe any excess from the furniture surface.
This helps to make the wood grain more visible through the product.
You can use a dry sponge instead.
If the excess blobs have already dried, use sandpaper to remove them. , Applying additional layers (and again wiping off the excess) will create a thicker layer that obscures more of the wood grain.
This incremental process makes it easy to create the exact combination of color and wood grain that is right for the project.
One coat is often enough, especially if you mixed your own whitewash to the desired consistency.
If you find yourself adding more than three layers, you may want to use a thicker whitewash. , After the whitewashing is completely dried, apply a clear water-based sealant over the surface.
This will protect the whitewash job and allow it to look fresh and new for a long time.
Most sealants can be applied using a brush or even a lint free sponge.
Always use a clear water-based sealant.
Oil-based sealants may give your furniture a yellow tinge that detracts from the intended color color.
Apply the sealant in long even strokes. -
Step 3: Wash the furniture with vinegar and water.
-
Step 4: Sand the furniture.
-
Step 5: Wipe with a clean cloth.This removes the dust sanding creates
-
Step 6: and results in a clean surface to work with.
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Step 7: Purchase or create the whitewash mixture.
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Step 8: Apply the whitewash to the furniture.
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Step 9: Work the whitewash into the wood (optional).
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Step 10: Wipe the whitewashed area.
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Step 11: Add additional layers if you desire.
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Step 12: Seal the whitewashed furniture (Optional) .
Detailed Guide
You can use newspapers instead, or any other material to catch the drips.
If the wood is covered with a sealant, using a chemical stripper gets rid of it much quicker than sandpaper:
Warning: chemical strippers are extremely caustic.
Use only in ventilated areas and cover your skin, eyes, and mouth (with a respirator).Brush the stripper onto the wood with as few strokes as possible.
Cover the whole surface, but manipulate the stripper as little as possible for maximum results.
Wait 3–5 minutes while the stripper dissolves the sealant.
Scrape the dissolved "goop" off the wood.
Steel wool is helpful for hard to reach corners.
If you use chemical stripper, do not skip washing the wood with vinegar and water.
This will neutralize the stripper and make the wood safe to work with and able to hold whitewash. (Alternatively, you can use turpentine, mineral spirits, or a paint neutralizer.), Dilute white vinegar with equal parts water and use it to wash the wood.
The vinegar solution is effective at removing stains and dirt which could cause the whitewash to apply unevenly.
Treating the wood this way also enhances its ability to absorb the whitewash.Wait for the furniture to dry completely before continuing. , Gently use a medium or fine grit sandpaperor sander to rub the surfaces you will whitewash.
This gives the wood an even texture and makes the whitewash attach strongly and evenly.If the piece has an existing layer of paint, lacquer, or stain, you'll need to sand it off entirely.,, You can buy this ready made as "wood stain" or "white wash pickling"
or make your own by mixing paint and water.
When mixing your own, a 2:1 ratio of latex paint and water will create a very thick layer of whitewash, while a 1:1 and 1:2 ratio result in successively thinner mixes.
Similarly, you can make your own whitewash by mixing turpentine into an oil-based paint until the desired consistency is reached.
For both homemade and store-bought products, stir the mixture thoroughly before using.
Any "stain" or "pickling" should work for any type of wood.
Purchase a whitewash stain, not a whitewash paint.
The latter is a lime and chalk based paint, which will take much longer to dry and obscure the wood grain. , Use a paint brush, foam roller, or clean rag to apply long strokes to the surface of the furniture.
As the mixture will dry more quickly than standard paint, apply the whitewash product in relatively small sections rather than attempting to coat the entire piece.
For oak or other wood with large grain and pores, apply the whitewash against the grain to ensure it covers the contour of the wood.
This technique is called "pickling".
For pine and most other woods, apply the whitewash in the direction of the wood grain for best results.
It may be quickest to apply the whitewash in long, even strips the length of the surface, allowing you to wipe off the excess (see below) in one motion before moving to the next strip.Use a sponge to whitewash hard to reach areas such as corners., Before the whitewash dries, use a clean rag to rub the whitewash into the grain and knots of the wood and even the brush strokes into one level coating.This is especially important for oak and other wood with large pores.
You can skip this step if you prefer the intentional "amateur" look of individual brush strokes. , Before the whitewash can completely dry, use a clean cloth to wipe any excess from the furniture surface.
This helps to make the wood grain more visible through the product.
You can use a dry sponge instead.
If the excess blobs have already dried, use sandpaper to remove them. , Applying additional layers (and again wiping off the excess) will create a thicker layer that obscures more of the wood grain.
This incremental process makes it easy to create the exact combination of color and wood grain that is right for the project.
One coat is often enough, especially if you mixed your own whitewash to the desired consistency.
If you find yourself adding more than three layers, you may want to use a thicker whitewash. , After the whitewashing is completely dried, apply a clear water-based sealant over the surface.
This will protect the whitewash job and allow it to look fresh and new for a long time.
Most sealants can be applied using a brush or even a lint free sponge.
Always use a clear water-based sealant.
Oil-based sealants may give your furniture a yellow tinge that detracts from the intended color color.
Apply the sealant in long even strokes.
About the Author
Theresa Hart
Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow home improvement tutorials.
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