How to Blue a Gun Barrel
Polish the gun barrel and other parts to be blued., Ready the parts to be dipped in the cleaning and bluing solutions., Dip the gun parts in a cleaning solution bath., Rinse off the cleaning solution in cold water., Dip the gun parts in the bluing...
Step-by-Step Guide
-
Step 1: Polish the gun barrel and other parts to be blued.
This is to remove any surface rust and other red oxides that would flake off during the process, as well as any pits or scratches that may exist.
You can use either 000 steel wool or 600 to 1200-grit sandpaper to polish the metal., The chemicals that are used in the bluing process proper are caustic chemicals.
Depending on which chemical you use to clean the gun metal prior to bluing it, it may be caustic as well.
In addition to wearing rubber gloves when working with these chemicals, it’s helpful to rig up the parts before dipping so they can be easily removed from the bluing bath.
Cut a length of soft wire longer than the gun barrel so that it is long enough to protrude from either end.
After threading the wire through the barrel, bend both ends into hooks that can be grasped without touching the barrel and be suspended on hooks or a length of cord or wire outside of the chemical baths.
Smaller parts can be held in a stainless steel basket. , Parts should be immersed in the bath for 10 to 15 minutes and scrubbed while being immersed to remove any oil, dirt, or grease that could get in the way of the bluing process.
You can use any of the following chemical cleaners, provided you read and follow all directions for its use, handling, and disposal:
One chemical cleaner that was reportedly discontinued contained sodium metasilicate, found in a number of commercial floor strippers.A cleaner that can be used in its place is sodium triphosphate, a component of a number of commercial detergents.Some bluing product manufacturers recommend using naphtha, followed by washing the metal in a mild dishwashing detergent.Some hobbyist 'bluers' use a special cleaning oil, followed by acetone (nail polish remover) to clean the metal, while others use denatured alcohol.(One such cleaning oil, a mixture of mineral and vegetable oils, alcohol, alkaline salts, and benzyl acetate, is sold commercially under the name “Ballistol.”), Rinsing should take no more than 2 to 3 minutes.
If you’ve used dishwashing detergent to remove the cleaning chemical, you may instead need to use hot water to rinse., The bluing solution used in hot bluing is a caustic salt mixture of potassium nitrate and sodium hydroxide known as “Traditional Caustic Black.”This solution must be heated to a temperature of from 275 to 311 degrees F (135 to 155 degrees C), depending on the makeup of the bluing solution.
Before heating the bluing solution, stir it thoroughly to break up any clumps of bluing salt that may occur on the surface or at the bottom of the tank holding the solution.
When dipping gun barrels in bluing solution, dip them at an angle to allow any air bubbles that may form to escape.
Be sure to immerse the barrel completely.
Swirl the metal basket containing smaller gun parts around in the solution to ensure the parts are completely coated with the bluing solution.
Leave the gun parts in the bluing solution from 15 to 30 minutes.
Check to see when the metal has reached the desired shade of bluing and remove it from the solution at that time.
Stainless steel gun parts are immersed in a different chemical solution, this one made of a mixture of nitrates and chromates.
It is heated to temperatures similar to the nitrate-hydroxide mixture., Swirl the parts through the cold water to help wash away the bluing salts. , This will boil off any remaining bluing solution residue.
Simple parts need to be immersed for 5 to 10 minutes, while complex or ornate parts may need to be immersed for up to 30 minutes.
If the gun has any soldered parts, you can apply a chemical to these parts that will color the soldering to match the rest of the metal.
Use a cotton swab for this. , This will protect the finish from rust, sweat, and body oil.
Leave the parts in the oil bath for 45 to 60 minutes, until they have cooled. -
Step 2: Ready the parts to be dipped in the cleaning and bluing solutions.
-
Step 3: Dip the gun parts in a cleaning solution bath.
-
Step 4: Rinse off the cleaning solution in cold water.
-
Step 5: Dip the gun parts in the bluing solution.
-
Step 6: Rinse off the bluing solution in cold water.
-
Step 7: Immerse the gun parts in boiling water.
-
Step 8: Immerse the treated parts in a bath of water-displacing oil.
Detailed Guide
This is to remove any surface rust and other red oxides that would flake off during the process, as well as any pits or scratches that may exist.
You can use either 000 steel wool or 600 to 1200-grit sandpaper to polish the metal., The chemicals that are used in the bluing process proper are caustic chemicals.
Depending on which chemical you use to clean the gun metal prior to bluing it, it may be caustic as well.
In addition to wearing rubber gloves when working with these chemicals, it’s helpful to rig up the parts before dipping so they can be easily removed from the bluing bath.
Cut a length of soft wire longer than the gun barrel so that it is long enough to protrude from either end.
After threading the wire through the barrel, bend both ends into hooks that can be grasped without touching the barrel and be suspended on hooks or a length of cord or wire outside of the chemical baths.
Smaller parts can be held in a stainless steel basket. , Parts should be immersed in the bath for 10 to 15 minutes and scrubbed while being immersed to remove any oil, dirt, or grease that could get in the way of the bluing process.
You can use any of the following chemical cleaners, provided you read and follow all directions for its use, handling, and disposal:
One chemical cleaner that was reportedly discontinued contained sodium metasilicate, found in a number of commercial floor strippers.A cleaner that can be used in its place is sodium triphosphate, a component of a number of commercial detergents.Some bluing product manufacturers recommend using naphtha, followed by washing the metal in a mild dishwashing detergent.Some hobbyist 'bluers' use a special cleaning oil, followed by acetone (nail polish remover) to clean the metal, while others use denatured alcohol.(One such cleaning oil, a mixture of mineral and vegetable oils, alcohol, alkaline salts, and benzyl acetate, is sold commercially under the name “Ballistol.”), Rinsing should take no more than 2 to 3 minutes.
If you’ve used dishwashing detergent to remove the cleaning chemical, you may instead need to use hot water to rinse., The bluing solution used in hot bluing is a caustic salt mixture of potassium nitrate and sodium hydroxide known as “Traditional Caustic Black.”This solution must be heated to a temperature of from 275 to 311 degrees F (135 to 155 degrees C), depending on the makeup of the bluing solution.
Before heating the bluing solution, stir it thoroughly to break up any clumps of bluing salt that may occur on the surface or at the bottom of the tank holding the solution.
When dipping gun barrels in bluing solution, dip them at an angle to allow any air bubbles that may form to escape.
Be sure to immerse the barrel completely.
Swirl the metal basket containing smaller gun parts around in the solution to ensure the parts are completely coated with the bluing solution.
Leave the gun parts in the bluing solution from 15 to 30 minutes.
Check to see when the metal has reached the desired shade of bluing and remove it from the solution at that time.
Stainless steel gun parts are immersed in a different chemical solution, this one made of a mixture of nitrates and chromates.
It is heated to temperatures similar to the nitrate-hydroxide mixture., Swirl the parts through the cold water to help wash away the bluing salts. , This will boil off any remaining bluing solution residue.
Simple parts need to be immersed for 5 to 10 minutes, while complex or ornate parts may need to be immersed for up to 30 minutes.
If the gun has any soldered parts, you can apply a chemical to these parts that will color the soldering to match the rest of the metal.
Use a cotton swab for this. , This will protect the finish from rust, sweat, and body oil.
Leave the parts in the oil bath for 45 to 60 minutes, until they have cooled.
About the Author
Kayla Ford
Enthusiastic about teaching home improvement techniques through clear, step-by-step guides.
Rate This Guide
How helpful was this guide? Click to rate: