How to Cut a Mat Using a Utility Knife
Assemble your supplies., Find a sturdy surface for mat cutting., Use only white, pebble surface mat board., Utilize the perfect edges on the sheet of new mat board. , Cut the piece you will need from the top right or left corner., Chose any brand or...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Assemble your supplies.
 Have close at hand your art work that is to be matted, mat board, cardboard or foam core board for backing, a pencil, eraser, a metal ruler or one with a metal edge, a small piece of fine grain sandpaper or an emery board, and tape. -
Step 2: Find a sturdy surface for mat cutting.
Be sure it is larger than the mat you will be cutting and protect it with stiff cardboard.
The hard, compressed type of cardboard on the backs of pads of art paper are sturdy and hard to penetrate with knife cuts.
Join one or more together with tape to create a larger piece, if necessary. , Crescent brand can be found in the vertical bins at the craft store, near the frame department. ,, Â Measure the inside of the frame you will be using and, in pencil, lightly mark the cuts to be done on the mat board to that size. , Be sure the blade is new and perfectly sharp.
For many types, you will need a screw driver to open the handle to position a new blade. , If you should make a bad cut, the important part is saved.
Align the ruler at your pencil mark and hold it securely against the board with enough pressure to keep it from slipping as you run the knife against it.
All of the cuts you will be making will be done slowly, and with a light hand. The hand holding the knife should be relaxed and the knife held loosely.
At first, your cut will barely penetrate the mat board.
On the second and successive cuts the knife it will fall into the groove you established with the first cut.
It will take two more light cuts, to be completely through the board.
Turn the board and cut the second side.
You might have to approach the table from a different direction in order to keep the proper position for cutting, with the knife cutting away from the good part of the mat, into the center or what will become the opening of the mat., If you have measured correctly, it should drop easily into place and be a perfect fit.
Make adjustments at this point if necessary., Mats generally have at least a few inches of white showing around the art piece.
If there is less that, find a larger frame., Determine how many inches on all sides you will need to have the hole in the mat be slightly smaller than the art piece.
If there is a difference, traditionally, the bottom edge can be slightly larger.
Write those four numbers on a piece of scrap paper for ready reference as you work. , Measure in from the four outside edges of your mat and make a series of tiny, elongated dots in pencil, plotting the shape of the cuts for the interior of the mat or mat opening., Place the knife on the mat board with the point of the knife exactly aligned with the top corner of the mat and press hard, straight down, to pierce the board.
Turn the work and repeat on the second side of the corner.
Creating these "L" shapes at each corner will insure perfect corners in your finished mat.
These corner cuts in the board will also be starting and stopping points for your side cuts. , Always cut away from the important part.
In this case have your ruler on the mat side and cut toward the center.
Use three light cuts to get through the board.
Don't attempt to tug or pull the center away.
Keep cutting light strokes with the ruler until the center comes away and drops out., Sand in one direction inward from outside, or good side of your mat.
Don't try to rub, tear or pull any imperfections.
Use slow and methodical strokes of sandpaper or emery board. , Use a pink eraser, an art gum or kneaded eraser.
The "pebbled" surface of the mat board makes erasures invisible. , This can be lighter weight and cheaper cardboard or a piece of foam core board.
Make it slightly smaller than the mat's outside dimensions.
Align the top edge of the backing with that of the mat and tape the two edges with a continuous strip of tape to form a hinge at the top. ,, Check to see it is aligned perfectly by closing the mat.
Open again, and tape the art at intervals with two inch pieces of tape.
Strive for neatness and cut, rather than tear these small pieces of tape. , Â Erase again, because new pencil marks will show up now.
Check to see if you have signed your work and that the signature is showing.
If you cleaned the glass, be sure it is completely dry before closing up the matted art in the frame. -
Step 3: Use only white
-
Step 4: pebble surface mat board.
-
Step 5: Utilize the perfect edges on the sheet of new mat board.
-
Step 6: Cut the piece you will need from the top right or left corner.
-
Step 7: Chose any brand or grade of utility knife.
-
Step 8: Keep in mind to always protect the piece you will be using for your mat.
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Step 9: When you have finished
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Step 10: take the test the piece of mat board to be sure it fits into your frame.
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Step 11: Place your art work on the mat and visually align it in the center.
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Step 12: Use a ruler and measure in from the outside edges of your mat.
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Step 13: Set your art aside.
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Step 14: Cut the corners first.
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Step 15: To cut the mat sides
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Step 16: repeat the steps described above.
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Step 17: Use sandpaper on rough spots.
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Step 18: Erase all pencil lines.
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Step 19: Cut a piece of cardboard to serve as backing.
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Step 20: Fold the mat and backing closed and tape from side to side on the outside to reinforce the hinge.
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Step 21: Place your art on the backing.
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Step 22: Set the matted piece into the frame and check to see that there is nothing between the glass and the art
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Step 23: such as eraser crumbs
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Step 24: lint or fuzz.
Detailed Guide
 Have close at hand your art work that is to be matted, mat board, cardboard or foam core board for backing, a pencil, eraser, a metal ruler or one with a metal edge, a small piece of fine grain sandpaper or an emery board, and tape.
Be sure it is larger than the mat you will be cutting and protect it with stiff cardboard.
The hard, compressed type of cardboard on the backs of pads of art paper are sturdy and hard to penetrate with knife cuts.
Join one or more together with tape to create a larger piece, if necessary. , Crescent brand can be found in the vertical bins at the craft store, near the frame department. ,, Â Measure the inside of the frame you will be using and, in pencil, lightly mark the cuts to be done on the mat board to that size. , Be sure the blade is new and perfectly sharp.
For many types, you will need a screw driver to open the handle to position a new blade. , If you should make a bad cut, the important part is saved.
Align the ruler at your pencil mark and hold it securely against the board with enough pressure to keep it from slipping as you run the knife against it.
All of the cuts you will be making will be done slowly, and with a light hand. The hand holding the knife should be relaxed and the knife held loosely.
At first, your cut will barely penetrate the mat board.
On the second and successive cuts the knife it will fall into the groove you established with the first cut.
It will take two more light cuts, to be completely through the board.
Turn the board and cut the second side.
You might have to approach the table from a different direction in order to keep the proper position for cutting, with the knife cutting away from the good part of the mat, into the center or what will become the opening of the mat., If you have measured correctly, it should drop easily into place and be a perfect fit.
Make adjustments at this point if necessary., Mats generally have at least a few inches of white showing around the art piece.
If there is less that, find a larger frame., Determine how many inches on all sides you will need to have the hole in the mat be slightly smaller than the art piece.
If there is a difference, traditionally, the bottom edge can be slightly larger.
Write those four numbers on a piece of scrap paper for ready reference as you work. , Measure in from the four outside edges of your mat and make a series of tiny, elongated dots in pencil, plotting the shape of the cuts for the interior of the mat or mat opening., Place the knife on the mat board with the point of the knife exactly aligned with the top corner of the mat and press hard, straight down, to pierce the board.
Turn the work and repeat on the second side of the corner.
Creating these "L" shapes at each corner will insure perfect corners in your finished mat.
These corner cuts in the board will also be starting and stopping points for your side cuts. , Always cut away from the important part.
In this case have your ruler on the mat side and cut toward the center.
Use three light cuts to get through the board.
Don't attempt to tug or pull the center away.
Keep cutting light strokes with the ruler until the center comes away and drops out., Sand in one direction inward from outside, or good side of your mat.
Don't try to rub, tear or pull any imperfections.
Use slow and methodical strokes of sandpaper or emery board. , Use a pink eraser, an art gum or kneaded eraser.
The "pebbled" surface of the mat board makes erasures invisible. , This can be lighter weight and cheaper cardboard or a piece of foam core board.
Make it slightly smaller than the mat's outside dimensions.
Align the top edge of the backing with that of the mat and tape the two edges with a continuous strip of tape to form a hinge at the top. ,, Check to see it is aligned perfectly by closing the mat.
Open again, and tape the art at intervals with two inch pieces of tape.
Strive for neatness and cut, rather than tear these small pieces of tape. , Â Erase again, because new pencil marks will show up now.
Check to see if you have signed your work and that the signature is showing.
If you cleaned the glass, be sure it is completely dry before closing up the matted art in the frame.
About the Author
Donald Gonzalez
A passionate writer with expertise in creative arts topics. Loves sharing practical knowledge.
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