How to Form Metal With the Masonite Die Forming Process
Masonite die working side is facing downward., Get the needed materials: they're listed in the "Things You'll Need" section below., When deciding the measurement for the die, make sure the edge of the plywood is 2" beyond the outside edge of the...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Masonite die working side is facing downward.
The sheet metal shown is galvanized.
Visualize the process: draw an outline of the simple design/shape you wish on the surface of the plywood that you already faced with Masonite (either regular Masonite used for plain, brown clipboards, or double hardened Masonite).
Cut out and remove the inner shape thus leaving the die (the outer part).
Bolt/Screw your desired sheet metal onto the die, with nut, to cover the side to be hammer-tooled/worked downward into the die, to form the metal into the die; unbolt it; trim off margins (or not if will be framed); finish the "metal art" as desired (smooth or texture, burnish or polish, clear coat or paint (or both), etc.).
Another die forming technique is to form sheet metal with hydraulic pressed in die forming, instead of hammering. -
Step 2: Get the needed materials: they're listed in the "Things You'll Need" section below.
When you get your Masonite sheets, either the Regular Masonite that is used for clip boards (only one side is hardened while the other side is not and also is not smooth) or double hardened Masonite (each side is hardened and smooth) which produces sharper edges on the sheet metal than regular Masonite because the unhardened edge will become rounded off. , The thickness of the built-up layers of plywood will be equal to the desired depth of the finished product.
Example: if the design is 4" in diameter and the finished product desired will be 1" deep the plywood with the Masonite face(s) should be 8" square and 1" thick.
If the end product is going to have two sides make sure each side is a mirror image (opposite) of the other
-- or like the back/or other side of the object
-- bolted to the opposite side of the die
-- or completely separate as a somewhat different shape, e.g.: the back or other side of a head or body is an opposite/mirror image.
On a face (head) one might have an eye nose and/or mouth shape as a final (added) layer to carefully hammer into those, for dull features (not detailed)... ,, The paper should be the same size as the plywood.,,, If the blade isn't kept straight and vertical
-- but at different angles on each edge, the outside edges of the design hammered into the sheet metal will not be identical for each half to match to form a 2-sided, 3-D object.,,,, Drill these holes in each corner.
Drill through both the metal and the plywood at the same time., (This is opposite of tempering for adding hardness by suddenly cooling in cool/cold water for example.),, Be sure to not do too much along one edge at once
-- but instead, work around and around to keep the forming consistent and aligned., Or if you made the die deep enough, then you can have metal on both sides, and so hammer into each side, but less than halfway, if you have the metal sides mounted back to back for convenience., -
Step 3: When deciding the measurement for the die
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Step 4: make sure the edge of the plywood is 2" beyond the outside edge of the design to make extra room for the sheet metal to be bolted onto the die and to be strong.
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Step 5: Make sure each die for each side has Masonite glued onto the working side(s).
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Step 6: Draw the outline of the design onto a piece of craft paper or thick paper (a paper bag is perfect).
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Step 7: Glue the paper design onto the plywood and let dry to follow when you cut out the shape.
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Step 8: Drill holes into the plywood on the inside edge of the design for the jigsaw blade
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Step 9: as a starter hole.
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Step 10: Cut the design from the plywood with the jigsaw
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Step 11: saber saw or coping saw (drill a starter hole to insert the blade)
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Step 12: making sure to keep the blade straight
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Step 13: vertical
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Step 14: not at an angle with the edge of the plywood
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Step 15: forming the outlined shape straight through
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Step 16: carefully
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Step 17: if you are going to use each half.
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Step 18: Place the sheet metal on top of the die.
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Step 19: Make sure the sheet metal lines up with the sides of the Masonite faced plywood.
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Step 20: Tape the sheet metal to the die with painters
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Step 21: masking tape.
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Step 22: Measure and cut at least four holes all of the way through the plywood
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Step 23: the same size as your four bolts.
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Step 24: Make sure to anneal (soften
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Step 25: remove stress from) the brittle metal with sufficient heat and gradually cooling
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Step 26: if you are using brass
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Step 27: copper or sterling silver.
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Step 28: Bolt the metal to the die using the bolts/screws
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Step 29: nuts or tee nuts.
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Step 30: Sink the metal into the die using the hard plastic hammer.
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Step 31: Unbolt the first side and flip the die over and use that side to repeat the sinking process again for a second half (mirror image).
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Step 32: Finish by attaching the two mirror halves or by following whatever the design calls for.
Detailed Guide
The sheet metal shown is galvanized.
Visualize the process: draw an outline of the simple design/shape you wish on the surface of the plywood that you already faced with Masonite (either regular Masonite used for plain, brown clipboards, or double hardened Masonite).
Cut out and remove the inner shape thus leaving the die (the outer part).
Bolt/Screw your desired sheet metal onto the die, with nut, to cover the side to be hammer-tooled/worked downward into the die, to form the metal into the die; unbolt it; trim off margins (or not if will be framed); finish the "metal art" as desired (smooth or texture, burnish or polish, clear coat or paint (or both), etc.).
Another die forming technique is to form sheet metal with hydraulic pressed in die forming, instead of hammering.
When you get your Masonite sheets, either the Regular Masonite that is used for clip boards (only one side is hardened while the other side is not and also is not smooth) or double hardened Masonite (each side is hardened and smooth) which produces sharper edges on the sheet metal than regular Masonite because the unhardened edge will become rounded off. , The thickness of the built-up layers of plywood will be equal to the desired depth of the finished product.
Example: if the design is 4" in diameter and the finished product desired will be 1" deep the plywood with the Masonite face(s) should be 8" square and 1" thick.
If the end product is going to have two sides make sure each side is a mirror image (opposite) of the other
-- or like the back/or other side of the object
-- bolted to the opposite side of the die
-- or completely separate as a somewhat different shape, e.g.: the back or other side of a head or body is an opposite/mirror image.
On a face (head) one might have an eye nose and/or mouth shape as a final (added) layer to carefully hammer into those, for dull features (not detailed)... ,, The paper should be the same size as the plywood.,,, If the blade isn't kept straight and vertical
-- but at different angles on each edge, the outside edges of the design hammered into the sheet metal will not be identical for each half to match to form a 2-sided, 3-D object.,,,, Drill these holes in each corner.
Drill through both the metal and the plywood at the same time., (This is opposite of tempering for adding hardness by suddenly cooling in cool/cold water for example.),, Be sure to not do too much along one edge at once
-- but instead, work around and around to keep the forming consistent and aligned., Or if you made the die deep enough, then you can have metal on both sides, and so hammer into each side, but less than halfway, if you have the metal sides mounted back to back for convenience.,
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Teresa Young
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