How to Grow Onions from Seed

Choose the right type of seed for your growing zone., Plan on starting the onion seeds indoors, 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost date., Fill a shallow container with a dampened seed starting mix., Plant the seeds according to the label on your...

25 Steps 5 min read Advanced

Step-by-Step Guide

  1. Step 1: Choose the right type of seed for your growing zone.

    There are three different categories of onions: short-day, long-day, and day-neutral.

    These categories are based on what plant hardiness and growing zone you live in.

    If you choose the wrong type of onion for your area, you may not get a very successful crop.If You live in Zone 7 and warmer, choose short-day onions, such as Red Burgundy, Red Creole, and Vidalia.

    If you live in Zone 6 and colder, choose long-day onions, such as:
    Alisa Craig, Copra, and White Sweet Spanish.(14-16 hours).

    You can grow day-neutral onions, such as Cabernet and Candy, in any growing zone (12-14 hours).

    There are online tools you can use to help you figure out your zone.

    Check a plant hardiness zone map to know your area.
  2. Step 2: Plan on starting the onion seeds indoors

    This will give the seedlings a head start.

    It will allow them to germinate into healthy seedlings before you transplant them outside. , The container should be about 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) deep, and have some drainage holes.

    It can be any shape or size you want. , If you don't have the seed packet anymore, begin by sprinkling the seeds over the damp soil.

    Mist them lightly with water, and then cover them with a 1/8 inch (0.32 centimeters) thick layer of seed mix.

    Gently pat the soil with your hand when you are done. , Cover the seeds with a humidity dome, or cover the seeds in starting mix and plastic.

    Keep them someplace warm, about 70 to 75°F (21 to 24°C).

    If it is too cold where you live, place the containers on a heat mat.

    Expect to see the seedlings emerge after 7 to 10 days., Take off the humidity dome or plastic cover and move the seeds to a cooler spot.

    Keep the soil moist, and remember to fertilize it.

    The best type of fertilizer is diluted fish emulsion or compost tea. , Start hardening them 4 weeks before the last frost date.

    During this time, slowly introduce the seedlings to the outside.

    Start by placing them outside in a sheltered spot for several hours, then bringing them back inside for the rest of the day.

    Increase outdoor exposure little by little every day until you are able to leave them outside overnight.

    The hardening process will help the seedlings get used to colder temperatures, decreased sun, and less watering.

    Transplanting the seedlings outside right away will send the seedlings into shock and could possibly kill them. ,, Spread a 1½ inch (3.81 centimeters) thick layer of 5-10-5 fertilizer over the soil.

    Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of about 8 inches (20.32 centimeters).Make sure that the soil is soft, and free of clots.

    If you can, try adding some organic material into the soil, such as rotted manure or compost intended for gardening.If you can't get 5-10-5 fertilizer, try to find something that is high in phosphorus. , Refer to the packaging that the seeds came in; this will tell you how far apart the seeds should be spaced.

    If you lost the packaging, space the seedlings 3 to 4 inches (7.62 to
    10.16 centimeters) apart.Use a fork to loosen a hole in the dirt, place the seedling into the hole, and then push the dirt back. , Once you have transplanted the seedlings, give them enough water to dampen the soil. , Consider adding some nitrogen to the water to keep the onions healthy.

    You only need to do this until mid-July, however., The leaves are not the only part of the onion that will stick out of the soil; the bulbs will too.

    If the bulbs are not developing out of the ground, you may want to brush some of the soil away from them, so that only the roots and the bottom part of the bulb are in the soil.

    This will help the bulbs dry faster., Begin harvesting when the bulbs are 2 to 3 inches (5.08 to
    7.62 centimeters) in diameter.

    Bend the plants to the ground to avoid top rotting of the bulbs (pink neck).

    Give the bulbs 5 to 6 days to dry and turn brown.

    This will speed up the process of drying the bulbs, as well. ,, Once the outer layer of the onion bulb's skin has dried, it's ready to harvest.

    Place the bulbs in a container, such as a box, bag, or wheel barrow to store the onions you have harvested.

    Make sure the container is warm,, Spread the bulbs out on a screen to provide ample circulation.

    Let them cure in a shed or garage.

    A porch that doesn't get a lot of sunlight will also work.

    If you cure the onions in direct sunlight, the skins will soften and invite bacteria.

    If you cure them someplace damp and humid, they may start to rot. , If you are not braiding your onions together and hanging them up, you will need to store them properly in a bag or box.

    You can store them however you want, as long as they are kept cool and dry.

    Good air circulation is a must.

    Here's a few popular ways to store onions.Store the onions in an onion bag, and hang the bag up.

    Store the onions in a shallow box.

    Use newspaper to keep the bulbs separate.

    Store the onions in nylon stockings.

    Tie a knot in the stocking between each bulb.

    Hang the stocking up.

    When you want to get an onion, simply cut below or above a knot.
  3. Step 3: 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost date.

  4. Step 4: Fill a shallow container with a dampened seed starting mix.

  5. Step 5: Plant the seeds according to the label on your seed packet.

  6. Step 6: Keep the seeds warm and damp until they sprout.

  7. Step 7: Limit the humidity and warmth once the seedlings sprout.

  8. Step 8: Harden the seedlings for 4 weeks before you transplant them outside.

  9. Step 9: Wait until the seedlings are at least 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) tall.This will ensure that the young plants are strong enough to tolerate the outdoor environment.

  10. Step 10: Prepare some well-draining

  11. Step 11: phosphorous-rich soil in a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight.

  12. Step 12: Plant the seedlings at least 3 inches (7.62 centimeters) apart.

  13. Step 13: Water the seedlings.

  14. Step 14: Water the onions frequently

  15. Step 15: and never let them dry out.

  16. Step 16: Pull the soil away from the bulbs to expose the tops as they mature.

  17. Step 17: Harvest the bulbs.

  18. Step 18: Trim the leaves down to 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters).If you plan on braiding the onions into a rope

  19. Step 19: like garlic

  20. Step 20: you can leave the leaves longer.

  21. Step 21: Pull the bulbs out of the ground.

  22. Step 22: Cure the onions out of direct sunlight

  23. Step 23: someplace that is warm

  24. Step 24: and has good air circulation.

  25. Step 25: Store the cured onions someplace dry and cool with good air circulation.

Detailed Guide

There are three different categories of onions: short-day, long-day, and day-neutral.

These categories are based on what plant hardiness and growing zone you live in.

If you choose the wrong type of onion for your area, you may not get a very successful crop.If You live in Zone 7 and warmer, choose short-day onions, such as Red Burgundy, Red Creole, and Vidalia.

If you live in Zone 6 and colder, choose long-day onions, such as:
Alisa Craig, Copra, and White Sweet Spanish.(14-16 hours).

You can grow day-neutral onions, such as Cabernet and Candy, in any growing zone (12-14 hours).

There are online tools you can use to help you figure out your zone.

Check a plant hardiness zone map to know your area.

This will give the seedlings a head start.

It will allow them to germinate into healthy seedlings before you transplant them outside. , The container should be about 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) deep, and have some drainage holes.

It can be any shape or size you want. , If you don't have the seed packet anymore, begin by sprinkling the seeds over the damp soil.

Mist them lightly with water, and then cover them with a 1/8 inch (0.32 centimeters) thick layer of seed mix.

Gently pat the soil with your hand when you are done. , Cover the seeds with a humidity dome, or cover the seeds in starting mix and plastic.

Keep them someplace warm, about 70 to 75°F (21 to 24°C).

If it is too cold where you live, place the containers on a heat mat.

Expect to see the seedlings emerge after 7 to 10 days., Take off the humidity dome or plastic cover and move the seeds to a cooler spot.

Keep the soil moist, and remember to fertilize it.

The best type of fertilizer is diluted fish emulsion or compost tea. , Start hardening them 4 weeks before the last frost date.

During this time, slowly introduce the seedlings to the outside.

Start by placing them outside in a sheltered spot for several hours, then bringing them back inside for the rest of the day.

Increase outdoor exposure little by little every day until you are able to leave them outside overnight.

The hardening process will help the seedlings get used to colder temperatures, decreased sun, and less watering.

Transplanting the seedlings outside right away will send the seedlings into shock and could possibly kill them. ,, Spread a 1½ inch (3.81 centimeters) thick layer of 5-10-5 fertilizer over the soil.

Mix the fertilizer into the soil to a depth of about 8 inches (20.32 centimeters).Make sure that the soil is soft, and free of clots.

If you can, try adding some organic material into the soil, such as rotted manure or compost intended for gardening.If you can't get 5-10-5 fertilizer, try to find something that is high in phosphorus. , Refer to the packaging that the seeds came in; this will tell you how far apart the seeds should be spaced.

If you lost the packaging, space the seedlings 3 to 4 inches (7.62 to
10.16 centimeters) apart.Use a fork to loosen a hole in the dirt, place the seedling into the hole, and then push the dirt back. , Once you have transplanted the seedlings, give them enough water to dampen the soil. , Consider adding some nitrogen to the water to keep the onions healthy.

You only need to do this until mid-July, however., The leaves are not the only part of the onion that will stick out of the soil; the bulbs will too.

If the bulbs are not developing out of the ground, you may want to brush some of the soil away from them, so that only the roots and the bottom part of the bulb are in the soil.

This will help the bulbs dry faster., Begin harvesting when the bulbs are 2 to 3 inches (5.08 to
7.62 centimeters) in diameter.

Bend the plants to the ground to avoid top rotting of the bulbs (pink neck).

Give the bulbs 5 to 6 days to dry and turn brown.

This will speed up the process of drying the bulbs, as well. ,, Once the outer layer of the onion bulb's skin has dried, it's ready to harvest.

Place the bulbs in a container, such as a box, bag, or wheel barrow to store the onions you have harvested.

Make sure the container is warm,, Spread the bulbs out on a screen to provide ample circulation.

Let them cure in a shed or garage.

A porch that doesn't get a lot of sunlight will also work.

If you cure the onions in direct sunlight, the skins will soften and invite bacteria.

If you cure them someplace damp and humid, they may start to rot. , If you are not braiding your onions together and hanging them up, you will need to store them properly in a bag or box.

You can store them however you want, as long as they are kept cool and dry.

Good air circulation is a must.

Here's a few popular ways to store onions.Store the onions in an onion bag, and hang the bag up.

Store the onions in a shallow box.

Use newspaper to keep the bulbs separate.

Store the onions in nylon stockings.

Tie a knot in the stocking between each bulb.

Hang the stocking up.

When you want to get an onion, simply cut below or above a knot.

About the Author

D

Dennis Howard

Specializes in breaking down complex practical skills topics into simple steps.

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