How to Make 3D Images Using StereoPhoto Maker
Find a subject with a foreground and background objects to give the photo depth., Take a photo 10 to 15 feet (3.0 to 4.6 m) away from the main subject., Move the images to your computer.
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Find a subject with a foreground and background objects to give the photo depth.
Unless you're using two digital cameras at the same time, you're going to be pretty much stuck with taking still life shots for now.
You can try asking a friend to hold still between shots, but good luck having it work with kids or animals.
If you plan on viewing your 3D pictures with red-blue anaglyph glasses, it's best to avoid photographing things that are red or cyan. -
Step 2: Take a photo 10 to 15 feet (3.0 to 4.6 m) away from the main subject.
Then slide the camera about
2.5" to the right for the right eye picture.
Try to be consistent.
If you sometimes take the right picture first and sometimes the left first, you'll have a hard time knowing which is which.
Make it a habit to always take the left picture first.
It's best if your camera is on a tripod, but if you are doing this hand-held try to keep the camera as still as possible as you move to take the second shot.
Keep the overall framing of the pictures the same while you are shifting.
Try to keep whatever is touching the bottom of the frame the same in both images to minimize vertical error. , If you're using a digital camera, it's useful to organize the images for easier processing later.
Create a folder called "3D Photos".
Inside 3D Photos create some sub folders.
One might be named "Original Right" or "OR" and "Original Left" or "OL".
Create another folder called "Anaglyph" and perhaps another called "Side by Side".
These are for storing your finished work.
Move the images from your camera into the 3D Photos folder, and then move the right shots into the "OR" folder and the left shots into the "OL" folder.
There should be the same number of shots in each folder.
Rename the files.
Suppose you've started by taking five pairs of images.
You might name them Photo1-L, Photo1-R, Photo2-L, Photo2-R, Photo3-L, Photo3-R, and so on.
If you've taken 10 or 20 or 50 or several hundred "stereo pairs" of images, renaming them individually would take a long time.
There's a way to rename a whole folder full of files (Multi-Rename) in SPM that's described later in this tutorial. -
Step 3: Move the images to your computer.
Detailed Guide
Unless you're using two digital cameras at the same time, you're going to be pretty much stuck with taking still life shots for now.
You can try asking a friend to hold still between shots, but good luck having it work with kids or animals.
If you plan on viewing your 3D pictures with red-blue anaglyph glasses, it's best to avoid photographing things that are red or cyan.
Then slide the camera about
2.5" to the right for the right eye picture.
Try to be consistent.
If you sometimes take the right picture first and sometimes the left first, you'll have a hard time knowing which is which.
Make it a habit to always take the left picture first.
It's best if your camera is on a tripod, but if you are doing this hand-held try to keep the camera as still as possible as you move to take the second shot.
Keep the overall framing of the pictures the same while you are shifting.
Try to keep whatever is touching the bottom of the frame the same in both images to minimize vertical error. , If you're using a digital camera, it's useful to organize the images for easier processing later.
Create a folder called "3D Photos".
Inside 3D Photos create some sub folders.
One might be named "Original Right" or "OR" and "Original Left" or "OL".
Create another folder called "Anaglyph" and perhaps another called "Side by Side".
These are for storing your finished work.
Move the images from your camera into the 3D Photos folder, and then move the right shots into the "OR" folder and the left shots into the "OL" folder.
There should be the same number of shots in each folder.
Rename the files.
Suppose you've started by taking five pairs of images.
You might name them Photo1-L, Photo1-R, Photo2-L, Photo2-R, Photo3-L, Photo3-R, and so on.
If you've taken 10 or 20 or 50 or several hundred "stereo pairs" of images, renaming them individually would take a long time.
There's a way to rename a whole folder full of files (Multi-Rename) in SPM that's described later in this tutorial.
About the Author
Cheryl Jimenez
Enthusiastic about teaching crafts techniques through clear, step-by-step guides.
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