How to Make a Fake ID
Scan an ID into your computer or printer., Open your scan in an image editing program., Insert the new photo., Change the text fields., Print out your new ID on heavy cardstock., Cut out each side of the new ID. , Glue the two sides together so they...
Step-by-Step Guide
-
Step 1: Scan an ID into your computer or printer.
Make sure to get the front and back, and note any holographic elements. -
Step 2: Open your scan in an image editing program.
Photoshop would be ideal for this, but you can also use free programs like GIMP and Paint.net. , Try to get a photo that's roughly the same resolution and size as the one on the valid ID.
Zoom in or out of the new photo so that the head will be about the same size as in the original photo.
You can also adjust the contrast and brightness to match the original photo.
As long as the new pic isn't too bright or too dark, you're probably fine. , Try to find a font that's close to the one on the current ID. (Courier, with slab serif, was used on a lot of older licenses.) Also, adjust the font size and spacing so that it matches as closely as possible.
Enter a full name, without abbreviations.
The only instance in which you might use an abbreviation is for things like "Albert Smith Jr." or "Thomas Jones III." Put in a realistic birth date.
If you're using a particularly old ID as a template, you don't want to keep it so that it says the new person was born in 1951 but looks
20.
Match the hair and eye color fields to the photo.
See below for a list of abbreviations. , Be sure to print both the front and back. ,, Trim any overlapping edges. , If you'd like to add an extra layer of authenticity to the ID, you can add a hologram.
See the Making Your Own Hologram section below for more help, and be sure you do it before you laminate the ID. , Trim the laminate so it's about 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) from the edge of the paper. -
Step 3: Insert the new photo.
-
Step 4: Change the text fields.
-
Step 5: Print out your new ID on heavy cardstock.
-
Step 6: Cut out each side of the new ID.
-
Step 7: Glue the two sides together so they form a card.
-
Step 8: Add any holograms (optional).
-
Step 9: Laminate the paper ID.
Detailed Guide
Make sure to get the front and back, and note any holographic elements.
Photoshop would be ideal for this, but you can also use free programs like GIMP and Paint.net. , Try to get a photo that's roughly the same resolution and size as the one on the valid ID.
Zoom in or out of the new photo so that the head will be about the same size as in the original photo.
You can also adjust the contrast and brightness to match the original photo.
As long as the new pic isn't too bright or too dark, you're probably fine. , Try to find a font that's close to the one on the current ID. (Courier, with slab serif, was used on a lot of older licenses.) Also, adjust the font size and spacing so that it matches as closely as possible.
Enter a full name, without abbreviations.
The only instance in which you might use an abbreviation is for things like "Albert Smith Jr." or "Thomas Jones III." Put in a realistic birth date.
If you're using a particularly old ID as a template, you don't want to keep it so that it says the new person was born in 1951 but looks
20.
Match the hair and eye color fields to the photo.
See below for a list of abbreviations. , Be sure to print both the front and back. ,, Trim any overlapping edges. , If you'd like to add an extra layer of authenticity to the ID, you can add a hologram.
See the Making Your Own Hologram section below for more help, and be sure you do it before you laminate the ID. , Trim the laminate so it's about 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) from the edge of the paper.
About the Author
Amanda Hart
Enthusiastic about teaching crafts techniques through clear, step-by-step guides.
Rate This Guide
How helpful was this guide? Click to rate: