How to Make a Hidden Blade
Gather your parts and tools., Take the drawer slide apart., Remove the ball bearing track from the middle tier., Cut the tier to the length of your forearm., Pinch the tier's edges., Cut out the center of the tier., Cut the ball bearing track...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Gather your parts and tools.
This hidden blade is the real deal, and you're probably going to need to take a trip to the hardware store to get all the right parts and tools.
You can get all of these parts for between 35 and 40 dollars depending on where you live.
Here's what you'll need to make your own hidden blade:
Hidden blade parts:
A 14-inch standard drawer slide.
Get a flat drawer slide meant to be fitted to the middle of a drawer.
This will become the case for the hidden blade.2 extension springs, 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) by 1 1⁄2 inch (3.8 cm),
8.46 pound work weight.
The springs should look thick and fat.A pack of flathead Phillips screws size #8-32 thread, 2 inches (5.1 cm) long, with nuts.
A key ring that will slip easily over your finger.
Some fishing line.
Get clear line so you won't be able to see it against your hand.
A 14-inch piece of aluminum metal sheeting.
A 14-inch piece of cardboard.
Industrial strength velcro.
An old belt or piece of leather.
Tools you'll need:
A pair of pliers.
A dremel.
A drill.
Scissors.
A metal file.
Some WD-40. -
Step 2: Take the drawer slide apart.
The drawer slide will consist of three separate tiers.
Start by pushing the black latch under the top tier and removing the top tier from the slide, then bend the metal tab located at the end of the large bottom tier and slide out the middle tier, the one with the ball bearing track inside it.
You can put the top and bottom tiers away, since you won't need them for the rest of the project.
You'll also have extra ball bearings.
Save these in case you lose parts as you go along; you might need replacements. , Do this by popping off the tab or cap at the end of the tier, making sure to save it.
Slide out the ball bearing track and make sure to keep all of the ball bearings. , Hold your arm in front of you with your elbow bent and your palm facing up.
Lay the tier against your forearm, with the end of the tier resting at your wrist.
Decide how much length you'll need to take off to have the tier rest comfortably against your arm; it should end a few inches from your elbow crease.
Use the dremel to cut the appropriate length from the end of the tier that does not have a cap.
Do not cut off the end of the tier where you popped off the tab or cap to take out the ball bearing track.
You'll need to be able to replace that piece later.
Use the metal file to file down any sharp edges after you make the cut.
Take safety precautions when you're cutting the metal.
Wear safety goggles and work in an appropriate workspace. , Use the pliers to bend in the two end edges of the tier on the side that does not have a cap.
This will prevent the ball bearing track from falling out when you slide it back in. , Cut out a rectangular piece of metal from the center of the tier with the dremel.
Make sure you don't cut out the area where the cap will be reattached at one end of the tier, and leave an inch of metal at the pinched end of the tier as well.
Discard the rectangular piece you cut out, and file the sharp edges on the tier. , It should have five openings, and you'll need to cut it so that it you've got a row of just three.
Use the dremel to make a straight cut to shorten the ball bearing track.
The shortened track should hold 6 ball bearings on each side.
If your tier is on the longer side and you can fit a longer track inside it, you can cut the ball bearing track down to four openings instead.
Don't cut it shorter than 3, though, since it needs to have at least 3 openings to work properly. , Use the drill to create two holes in the track between the openings.
Ensure the holes are big enough for the screws to fit. , Take the plastic tab you removed from the middle tier.
Drill a hole the same size as the holes on the ball bearing track.
You'll need to be able to fasten it to the track when it's time to put the contraption together. -
Step 3: Remove the ball bearing track from the middle tier.
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Step 4: Cut the tier to the length of your forearm.
-
Step 5: Pinch the tier's edges.
-
Step 6: Cut out the center of the tier.
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Step 7: Cut the ball bearing track.
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Step 8: Drill holes in the ball bearing track.
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Step 9: Drill a hole in the tier tab.
Detailed Guide
This hidden blade is the real deal, and you're probably going to need to take a trip to the hardware store to get all the right parts and tools.
You can get all of these parts for between 35 and 40 dollars depending on where you live.
Here's what you'll need to make your own hidden blade:
Hidden blade parts:
A 14-inch standard drawer slide.
Get a flat drawer slide meant to be fitted to the middle of a drawer.
This will become the case for the hidden blade.2 extension springs, 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm) by 1 1⁄2 inch (3.8 cm),
8.46 pound work weight.
The springs should look thick and fat.A pack of flathead Phillips screws size #8-32 thread, 2 inches (5.1 cm) long, with nuts.
A key ring that will slip easily over your finger.
Some fishing line.
Get clear line so you won't be able to see it against your hand.
A 14-inch piece of aluminum metal sheeting.
A 14-inch piece of cardboard.
Industrial strength velcro.
An old belt or piece of leather.
Tools you'll need:
A pair of pliers.
A dremel.
A drill.
Scissors.
A metal file.
Some WD-40.
The drawer slide will consist of three separate tiers.
Start by pushing the black latch under the top tier and removing the top tier from the slide, then bend the metal tab located at the end of the large bottom tier and slide out the middle tier, the one with the ball bearing track inside it.
You can put the top and bottom tiers away, since you won't need them for the rest of the project.
You'll also have extra ball bearings.
Save these in case you lose parts as you go along; you might need replacements. , Do this by popping off the tab or cap at the end of the tier, making sure to save it.
Slide out the ball bearing track and make sure to keep all of the ball bearings. , Hold your arm in front of you with your elbow bent and your palm facing up.
Lay the tier against your forearm, with the end of the tier resting at your wrist.
Decide how much length you'll need to take off to have the tier rest comfortably against your arm; it should end a few inches from your elbow crease.
Use the dremel to cut the appropriate length from the end of the tier that does not have a cap.
Do not cut off the end of the tier where you popped off the tab or cap to take out the ball bearing track.
You'll need to be able to replace that piece later.
Use the metal file to file down any sharp edges after you make the cut.
Take safety precautions when you're cutting the metal.
Wear safety goggles and work in an appropriate workspace. , Use the pliers to bend in the two end edges of the tier on the side that does not have a cap.
This will prevent the ball bearing track from falling out when you slide it back in. , Cut out a rectangular piece of metal from the center of the tier with the dremel.
Make sure you don't cut out the area where the cap will be reattached at one end of the tier, and leave an inch of metal at the pinched end of the tier as well.
Discard the rectangular piece you cut out, and file the sharp edges on the tier. , It should have five openings, and you'll need to cut it so that it you've got a row of just three.
Use the dremel to make a straight cut to shorten the ball bearing track.
The shortened track should hold 6 ball bearings on each side.
If your tier is on the longer side and you can fit a longer track inside it, you can cut the ball bearing track down to four openings instead.
Don't cut it shorter than 3, though, since it needs to have at least 3 openings to work properly. , Use the drill to create two holes in the track between the openings.
Ensure the holes are big enough for the screws to fit. , Take the plastic tab you removed from the middle tier.
Drill a hole the same size as the holes on the ball bearing track.
You'll need to be able to fasten it to the track when it's time to put the contraption together.
About the Author
Gary Thompson
A passionate writer with expertise in lifestyle topics. Loves sharing practical knowledge.
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