How to Make a Plaster Mask
Prepare your work area., Prepare your supplies., Prepare your subject., Ask your subject to get into position., Rub petroleum jelly all over the subject's face(You can also use oil instead)., Construct the first layer of the mask., Examine the base...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Prepare your work area.
Choose a room where you have a lot of space to spread out, since working with plaster can get messy.
Lay newspapers or a drop cloth on the floor.
Have paper towels handy in case a stray drip lands outside the covered area. -
Step 2: Prepare your supplies.
Cut bandage plaster into strips.
You will need enough strips to make three layers of plaster over the face.
The strips should be about 2-3 inches wide by 3 inches (5-7.5 cm x
7.5 cm) long.
Make some strips longer, shorter, wider or thinner.
You'll need strips to cover all areas of the face.
Place the strips in a bowl.
Set out a second bowl filled with warm water that you will use to wet the strips. , The person whose face you are using to mold the mask should wear clothing that he or she doesn't mind getting wet with drips of plaster.
Decide how much of the subject's face you plan to cover.
It's best to have a conversation with your subject about his or her comfort level.
If you wish to cover the entire face, make sure the nostril area is left clear so that the subject can breathe freely.
The process is easiest if the subject lies on the floor, but if he or she prefers to sit in a chair, wrap towels around his or her neck and shoulders.
Ask your subject to tie back his or her hair, and to pin bangs away from the face. , Again, it's easier to work with a subject who is lying on the floor face up.
Whether the subject chooses to lie on the floor or sit in a chair, instruct him or her to keep still throughout the process.
Laughing or moving the face will distort the mask. , Place it especially at the hairline, on the eyebrows, and around the sides of the nose.
Don't skip this step, since it prevents your subject from experiencing pain when the mask is removed. , Working one strip at a time, dip strips in the bowl of warm water, then run your fingers over the strips to remove excess water.
The strips have more plaster on one side than the other; lay them on the subject with the side with less plaster face down.
Create an even base layer, and avoid leaving gaps between strips.
Dampen a smaller strip and lay it diagonally along the nose, starting above the left eyebrow and ending next to the right nostril.
Ensure the subject is able to breathe freely at all times.
Dampen another strip and place it diagonally in the opposite direction, forming an "X" across the bridge of the nose.
Dampen and place a larger strip across the forehead, overlapping the tops of the "X"
smoothing the plaster as you go.
Add the remaining strips.
Avoiding the triangle from the tip of the nose to the midpoint of the upper lip, repeat the dampening and placement of strips until there are none left.
Cut any strip to size as needed. , Check to see if any skin shows through.
Check to see that the pieces are overlapping properly and are not too spread out. , Focusing first on the weak areas, begin layering on more strips.
This time use larger strips and try to create a uniform layer with as few bumps as possible. , Cut strips or clean up a bit before applying the third layer, as you want the mask to set, but not start drying. , Begin at the edges, and fold the tails of the strips down around the edges of the mask to smooth them out.
This gets rid of the sharp corners left by the initial layers.
Begin building prominent features.
Create a bigger nose, eyebrow ridges, and so on to add character to the mask.
Do this by adding narrow pieces in layers and smoothing into shape.
Regardless of what features you build, make sure to reinforce weak areas, like the nose and eye areas, by adding extra strips there. , After about fifteen minutes, your subject's face will begin to feel itchy.
Ask the subject to gently move his or her face
- lift eyebrows, crinkle the nose, and so on
- to start loosening the mask. , When the subject no longer feels "stuck" to the mask, gently slide your fingers along the edges to lift it away, moving your fingers inward toward the center of the mask as you lift.
While the mask is still pliable, use a hole punch or awl to poke holes about an inch back from the eyes, to run ribbon or string through.
Place the mask on a rack to dry, preferably overnight. , You may add additional features by attaching and coating them with additional plaster strips using the same overlapping techniques you used for the base.
Consider adding such appendages as a beak (fold a paper plate in half) or horns (use cotton candy/fairy floss tubes or cones), or big bumps (use scrunched up newspaper balls).
Cover them completely with plaster strips.
For natural-looking features, such as higher cheekbones or a pointy nose, use paper-based modeling clay.
Spread a base layer of the clay onto the mask, then sculpt features with the clay.
Cover with plaster strips and allow to dry overnight. , Use sandpaper to smooth the bumps from the surface of the mask.
You may also choose to cover the mask with white tissue paper; spread the mask with glue, lay on the tissue paper, and allow it to dry.
Smooth and cover the back of the mask, too, since you won't want rough plaster directly touching the wearer's face. , Use a variety of paints, or glue on feathers, sequins, beads and other decorative items.
If you want to paint the mask, brush it with a layer of gesso first.
Allow the gesso to dry before you start painting.
When you are finished decorating the mask, slip a ribbon or string through the two holes and knot the ends, so you'll be able to fasten the mask to someone's face. -
Step 3: Prepare your subject.
-
Step 4: Ask your subject to get into position.
-
Step 5: Rub petroleum jelly all over the subject's face(You can also use oil instead).
-
Step 6: Construct the first layer of the mask.
-
Step 7: Examine the base layer for weak areas.
-
Step 8: Make the second layer.
-
Step 9: Take a break and let the mask set.
-
Step 10: Commence the third layer.
-
Step 11: Allow the mask to begin drying.
-
Step 12: Remove the mask.
-
Step 13: Attach additional elements with more strips.
-
Step 14: Smooth the surface of the mask.
-
Step 15: Decorate the mask.
Detailed Guide
Choose a room where you have a lot of space to spread out, since working with plaster can get messy.
Lay newspapers or a drop cloth on the floor.
Have paper towels handy in case a stray drip lands outside the covered area.
Cut bandage plaster into strips.
You will need enough strips to make three layers of plaster over the face.
The strips should be about 2-3 inches wide by 3 inches (5-7.5 cm x
7.5 cm) long.
Make some strips longer, shorter, wider or thinner.
You'll need strips to cover all areas of the face.
Place the strips in a bowl.
Set out a second bowl filled with warm water that you will use to wet the strips. , The person whose face you are using to mold the mask should wear clothing that he or she doesn't mind getting wet with drips of plaster.
Decide how much of the subject's face you plan to cover.
It's best to have a conversation with your subject about his or her comfort level.
If you wish to cover the entire face, make sure the nostril area is left clear so that the subject can breathe freely.
The process is easiest if the subject lies on the floor, but if he or she prefers to sit in a chair, wrap towels around his or her neck and shoulders.
Ask your subject to tie back his or her hair, and to pin bangs away from the face. , Again, it's easier to work with a subject who is lying on the floor face up.
Whether the subject chooses to lie on the floor or sit in a chair, instruct him or her to keep still throughout the process.
Laughing or moving the face will distort the mask. , Place it especially at the hairline, on the eyebrows, and around the sides of the nose.
Don't skip this step, since it prevents your subject from experiencing pain when the mask is removed. , Working one strip at a time, dip strips in the bowl of warm water, then run your fingers over the strips to remove excess water.
The strips have more plaster on one side than the other; lay them on the subject with the side with less plaster face down.
Create an even base layer, and avoid leaving gaps between strips.
Dampen a smaller strip and lay it diagonally along the nose, starting above the left eyebrow and ending next to the right nostril.
Ensure the subject is able to breathe freely at all times.
Dampen another strip and place it diagonally in the opposite direction, forming an "X" across the bridge of the nose.
Dampen and place a larger strip across the forehead, overlapping the tops of the "X"
smoothing the plaster as you go.
Add the remaining strips.
Avoiding the triangle from the tip of the nose to the midpoint of the upper lip, repeat the dampening and placement of strips until there are none left.
Cut any strip to size as needed. , Check to see if any skin shows through.
Check to see that the pieces are overlapping properly and are not too spread out. , Focusing first on the weak areas, begin layering on more strips.
This time use larger strips and try to create a uniform layer with as few bumps as possible. , Cut strips or clean up a bit before applying the third layer, as you want the mask to set, but not start drying. , Begin at the edges, and fold the tails of the strips down around the edges of the mask to smooth them out.
This gets rid of the sharp corners left by the initial layers.
Begin building prominent features.
Create a bigger nose, eyebrow ridges, and so on to add character to the mask.
Do this by adding narrow pieces in layers and smoothing into shape.
Regardless of what features you build, make sure to reinforce weak areas, like the nose and eye areas, by adding extra strips there. , After about fifteen minutes, your subject's face will begin to feel itchy.
Ask the subject to gently move his or her face
- lift eyebrows, crinkle the nose, and so on
- to start loosening the mask. , When the subject no longer feels "stuck" to the mask, gently slide your fingers along the edges to lift it away, moving your fingers inward toward the center of the mask as you lift.
While the mask is still pliable, use a hole punch or awl to poke holes about an inch back from the eyes, to run ribbon or string through.
Place the mask on a rack to dry, preferably overnight. , You may add additional features by attaching and coating them with additional plaster strips using the same overlapping techniques you used for the base.
Consider adding such appendages as a beak (fold a paper plate in half) or horns (use cotton candy/fairy floss tubes or cones), or big bumps (use scrunched up newspaper balls).
Cover them completely with plaster strips.
For natural-looking features, such as higher cheekbones or a pointy nose, use paper-based modeling clay.
Spread a base layer of the clay onto the mask, then sculpt features with the clay.
Cover with plaster strips and allow to dry overnight. , Use sandpaper to smooth the bumps from the surface of the mask.
You may also choose to cover the mask with white tissue paper; spread the mask with glue, lay on the tissue paper, and allow it to dry.
Smooth and cover the back of the mask, too, since you won't want rough plaster directly touching the wearer's face. , Use a variety of paints, or glue on feathers, sequins, beads and other decorative items.
If you want to paint the mask, brush it with a layer of gesso first.
Allow the gesso to dry before you start painting.
When you are finished decorating the mask, slip a ribbon or string through the two holes and knot the ends, so you'll be able to fasten the mask to someone's face.
About the Author
Carolyn Graham
Professional writer focused on creating easy-to-follow pet care tutorials.
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