How to Make a Sash
Decide on your desired dimensions.The sash needs to be long enough to tie around your waist in a knot or bow, depending on your preference., Cut out your sash fabric and interfacing., Place the interfacing on the fabric., Set up a cover cloth...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Decide on your desired dimensions.The sash needs to be long enough to tie around your waist in a knot or bow
For most waist sizes, a sash measuring 2 yards (1.8 m) in length will provide plenty of fabric to create a bow.
The width is nothing more than a matter of preference, but you need to multiply the desired width by two to create a front and a back, and you must add an extra 1/2 inch (13 mm) for a seam allowance. -
Step 2: depending on your preference.
You need to cut out one large rectangle of fabric for your sash using the measurements you decided on.
You also need to cut out an equally large piece of thin fusible interfacing using the same dimensions. , The shiny side of the interfacing is the side covered with adhesive, and it needs to be the side facing your fabric.
The interfacing should be applied to the underside or "wrong" side of you sash fabric and pinned in place. , The cover cloth should be a piece of heat-tolerant material, like an old cotton pillowcase.
Lay the cloth over the sash and the interfacing and dampen it using a spray bottle filled with water. , The iron should already be warmed up to a low setting.
Do not slide the iron across the cover cloth.
Instead, press it onto the cloth in one spot, starting near the edge of the sash, for about 10 seconds.
Pressing the iron creates steam and allows the interfacing to fuse to the fabric. , After each section is fused together, lift the iron and move it over to the spot directly next to the newly fused portion.
Continue until the entire length of the sash has been fused with the interfacing.
Move and re-wet the cover cloth as necessary. , After the fabric has cooled to the touch, remove the cover cloth and test the fusing by tugging gently on the edge of the interfacing and the edge of the fabric.
If the two stick together, it was a success.
If not, repeat the interfacing steps or try a different type of interfacing. , The sash should be just as long but half as wide.
The underside or wrong sides should face outward while the "right" sides or outer sides face together.
Pin and iron the fold in place. , Temporarily fold the sash in half width-wise so that both ends meet together.
Pin in place.
With the permanent lengthwise fold at the top and the open end at the bottom, cut a short diagonal line starting at the upper corner where the two ends meet.
Cut through all layers of fabric and unfold to its original length.
By cutting the ends at the same time, you ensure that the edges will be symmetrical. , Leave a 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance.
Start from the upper corner of one angled edge and sew down along the edge, through the bottom, and up along the opposing edge to seal the sash.
As you sew, though, you need to leave an opening along the bottom of the sash about 4 inches (10 cm) long so that you will be able to turn the sash right side out. , Trim the seam allowances off at the four corners of your sash so that it will be easier to turn it back the right way. , You can do this by using your fingers to gently pushing and pulling the fabric through the opening left at the bottom of your sash, or you can coax the fabric through the hole with a capped pen, blunt pencil, or wooden dowel. , After the sash has been turned right side out, use an iron to gently press the folds in place.
The sash must fold exactly where the seam is.
Otherwise, the seam will be exposed as you wear it. , You can either use a slip stitch or a ladder stitch to seal the hole.
Alternatively, you can top-stitch around the entire edge to seal the hole while giving your sash a more uniform look. -
Step 3: Cut out your sash fabric and interfacing.
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Step 4: Place the interfacing on the fabric.
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Step 5: Set up a cover cloth.
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Step 6: Press a warm iron onto the cloth.
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Step 7: Fuse the rest of the interfacing to the rest of the fabric.
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Step 8: Slowly remove the cover cloth.
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Step 9: Fold your fabric in half lengthwise.
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Step 10: Cut the ends at an angle.
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Step 11: Sew along the raw edges.
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Step 12: Cut off the corners.
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Step 13: Turn the fabric right side out.
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Step 14: Press the sash again.
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Step 15: Close the hole.
Detailed Guide
For most waist sizes, a sash measuring 2 yards (1.8 m) in length will provide plenty of fabric to create a bow.
The width is nothing more than a matter of preference, but you need to multiply the desired width by two to create a front and a back, and you must add an extra 1/2 inch (13 mm) for a seam allowance.
You need to cut out one large rectangle of fabric for your sash using the measurements you decided on.
You also need to cut out an equally large piece of thin fusible interfacing using the same dimensions. , The shiny side of the interfacing is the side covered with adhesive, and it needs to be the side facing your fabric.
The interfacing should be applied to the underside or "wrong" side of you sash fabric and pinned in place. , The cover cloth should be a piece of heat-tolerant material, like an old cotton pillowcase.
Lay the cloth over the sash and the interfacing and dampen it using a spray bottle filled with water. , The iron should already be warmed up to a low setting.
Do not slide the iron across the cover cloth.
Instead, press it onto the cloth in one spot, starting near the edge of the sash, for about 10 seconds.
Pressing the iron creates steam and allows the interfacing to fuse to the fabric. , After each section is fused together, lift the iron and move it over to the spot directly next to the newly fused portion.
Continue until the entire length of the sash has been fused with the interfacing.
Move and re-wet the cover cloth as necessary. , After the fabric has cooled to the touch, remove the cover cloth and test the fusing by tugging gently on the edge of the interfacing and the edge of the fabric.
If the two stick together, it was a success.
If not, repeat the interfacing steps or try a different type of interfacing. , The sash should be just as long but half as wide.
The underside or wrong sides should face outward while the "right" sides or outer sides face together.
Pin and iron the fold in place. , Temporarily fold the sash in half width-wise so that both ends meet together.
Pin in place.
With the permanent lengthwise fold at the top and the open end at the bottom, cut a short diagonal line starting at the upper corner where the two ends meet.
Cut through all layers of fabric and unfold to its original length.
By cutting the ends at the same time, you ensure that the edges will be symmetrical. , Leave a 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance.
Start from the upper corner of one angled edge and sew down along the edge, through the bottom, and up along the opposing edge to seal the sash.
As you sew, though, you need to leave an opening along the bottom of the sash about 4 inches (10 cm) long so that you will be able to turn the sash right side out. , Trim the seam allowances off at the four corners of your sash so that it will be easier to turn it back the right way. , You can do this by using your fingers to gently pushing and pulling the fabric through the opening left at the bottom of your sash, or you can coax the fabric through the hole with a capped pen, blunt pencil, or wooden dowel. , After the sash has been turned right side out, use an iron to gently press the folds in place.
The sash must fold exactly where the seam is.
Otherwise, the seam will be exposed as you wear it. , You can either use a slip stitch or a ladder stitch to seal the hole.
Alternatively, you can top-stitch around the entire edge to seal the hole while giving your sash a more uniform look.
About the Author
Justin Allen
A passionate writer with expertise in hobbies topics. Loves sharing practical knowledge.
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