How to Make a Sturdier Igloo
Mark out an area to build the Igloo in., Before starting on building the actual Igloo, determine what kind of snow you are dealing with., Find a mold to make the bricks out of., Use a snow shovel to fill the mold with snow, then pack it down., Clear...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Mark out an area to build the Igloo in.
An ideal area should be flat, lacking tall grasses or shrubs, and have a foot of snow or more.
A good measurement is to make a snow angel and build around that.
If the diameter(from the edge to the opposite edge) of the igloo is more than 10 feet(3.2 meters), it will require a perfect dome, which is not practical to build out of snow. -
Step 2: Before starting on building the actual Igloo
Dry powdery snow is not ideal for Igloos.
Wet heavy snow is better.
If all you have is powdery snow, make the igloo lower to the ground and smaller than you normally would.
If the snow has sheets of ice in it or it is ice, compacting it will take longer and the igloo will have to be lower to the ground than normal. , The smaller the size, the longer it will take but the more structurally sound the Igloo will be.
Larger blocks will be quicker, but will have larger spaces in between the individual blocks.
An ideal mold will be 12in long, 8in high, ~10in wide.
The mold should have a bottom and a removable top, ideally.
A flexible mold(plastic/thin metal) is easier to get snow out of than a thick, wooden one.
Do not use a shoe box for this: it will wear away into nothing after awhile. , The more fragile your mold, the more gentile you should be when packing the snow in.
Pack it down and add snow as needed until the compressed snow is somewhere near the top of the mold. ,, Repeat until you have one layer done.
Scoop unpacked snow betwixt the cracks of the blocks for extra insulation. ,, To avoid collapses, build a support beam by stacking several bricks on top of each other perpendicular to one of the walls(and on the wall opposite it). , Once you get to the point where the open top part of the igloo has a diameter of about two feet, you'll need to build a giant "cap" to put on top.
The cap should be much thinner than the rest of the igloo and it should be very well packed.
Place it on top.
Congratulations, you know have a usable igloo. ,, Adding a chimney for fires(better idea than it sounds) can be simple: cut a small(~6in) hole at the top and add snow making it like a funnel facing towards the sky.
This will allow smoke to filter out without letting too much snow/rain/sleet in. -
Step 3: determine what kind of snow you are dealing with.
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Step 4: Find a mold to make the bricks out of.
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Step 5: Use a snow shovel to fill the mold with snow
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Step 6: then pack it down.
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Step 7: Clear snow out of the area where the igloo will be built: it will make sure the igloo does not become uneven as the surrounding snow begins to melt and refreeze.
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Step 8: After you have the mold filled
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Step 9: turn it upside down at the site of the igloo where you want the brick placed.
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Step 10: Remember to leave a small area (about a two feet wide and two feet tall) at the base open for a door.
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Step 11: Continue adding layers
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Step 12: steadily sloping inward.
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Step 13: Build a cap.
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Step 14: Feel free to make smaller(or not) igloos joined to your first one by tunnels for multiple sleeping quarters/storage.
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Step 15: Consider adding a chimney.
Detailed Guide
An ideal area should be flat, lacking tall grasses or shrubs, and have a foot of snow or more.
A good measurement is to make a snow angel and build around that.
If the diameter(from the edge to the opposite edge) of the igloo is more than 10 feet(3.2 meters), it will require a perfect dome, which is not practical to build out of snow.
Dry powdery snow is not ideal for Igloos.
Wet heavy snow is better.
If all you have is powdery snow, make the igloo lower to the ground and smaller than you normally would.
If the snow has sheets of ice in it or it is ice, compacting it will take longer and the igloo will have to be lower to the ground than normal. , The smaller the size, the longer it will take but the more structurally sound the Igloo will be.
Larger blocks will be quicker, but will have larger spaces in between the individual blocks.
An ideal mold will be 12in long, 8in high, ~10in wide.
The mold should have a bottom and a removable top, ideally.
A flexible mold(plastic/thin metal) is easier to get snow out of than a thick, wooden one.
Do not use a shoe box for this: it will wear away into nothing after awhile. , The more fragile your mold, the more gentile you should be when packing the snow in.
Pack it down and add snow as needed until the compressed snow is somewhere near the top of the mold. ,, Repeat until you have one layer done.
Scoop unpacked snow betwixt the cracks of the blocks for extra insulation. ,, To avoid collapses, build a support beam by stacking several bricks on top of each other perpendicular to one of the walls(and on the wall opposite it). , Once you get to the point where the open top part of the igloo has a diameter of about two feet, you'll need to build a giant "cap" to put on top.
The cap should be much thinner than the rest of the igloo and it should be very well packed.
Place it on top.
Congratulations, you know have a usable igloo. ,, Adding a chimney for fires(better idea than it sounds) can be simple: cut a small(~6in) hole at the top and add snow making it like a funnel facing towards the sky.
This will allow smoke to filter out without letting too much snow/rain/sleet in.
About the Author
Gregory Jones
Experienced content creator specializing in cooking guides and tutorials.
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