How to Make an Oriental Bag
Cut the background fabric., Prepare the cut., Fusible Wadding Cut., Make the lining cut., Plan the strip., Join and cut the strips., Make the first background strip., Sew the strips., Make the second background strip., Repeat., Fuse the wadding...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Cut the background fabric.
From the background fabric, cut the following:
Two 5in wide strips across the width of the fabric.
From one strip, crosscut one 4 1⁄2 x 8 1⁄2in rectangle for the base and two 2 1⁄2in wide strips across the width of the fabric, each trimmed to 32in, for the handles.
From the second strip, cut a 5 x 25in rectangle for the bag top section and a 4 x 6in rectangle for the fastening tab.
One 9in wide strip across the width of the fabric.
Cross-cut to give 24 1 1⁄2 x 9in rectangles for the design panel. -
Step 2: Prepare the cut.
Take the two fat quarters and place them right sides together on your cutting mat.
Keeping them together, fold in half width wise.
Making sure you cut through all four layers, cut 12 1 1⁄2in wide strips. , From the fusible wadding, cut the following:
One 8 x 24in rectangle for the design panel One 4 x 8in rectangle for the base Two 2 x 24in strips for the bag top section. , From the lining, cut the following:
One 8 1⁄2 x 25in rectangle Two 5 x 9in rectangles If you are using a fat quarter, cut two 81⁄2 x 13in rectangles and join with a 1⁄2in seam to make a 81⁄2 x 25in rectangle. , Take the 9 x 24in piece of medium weight interfacing and using a soft pencil, draw 23 lines at 1in intervals.
See Figure
2. , Take each of the 12 pairs of contrast strips cut from the fat quarters and, keeping each pair right sides together, join them lengthwise.
Press the seam open and then fold the piece along the stitching line so that the right sides are to the outside.
Cut each piece in half to yield two pieces each 1 1⁄4 x 9in. , Take one strip of background fabric and place it, right side up, onto the marked interfacing so that the edge of the strip lies along the first marked line.
The strip will have a 1⁄2in seam allowance overhanging the bottom edge of the interfacing.
See Figure
4. , Take a stitched double contrast strip and place on top of the background strip, matching the raw edges.
A 1⁄4in of the background fabric will show underneath the stitched edge of the double strip.
Stitch through all layers 1⁄4in from the raw edges.
See Figure
5. , Place a second background strip right side down directly on top of the contrast strip.
Stitch again through all layers 1⁄4in from the raw edges.
Turn this second strip over to the right side and finger press in place; the contrast strip will form a lose flap.
You can combine steps 7 and 8 and stitch all the layers together in one operation., Repeat steps 7 and 8 until all 24 strips are stitched onto the interfacing with a background strip under each double contrast strip.
See Figures 5–6., Fuse the 8 x 24in rectangle of wadding onto the back of the panel, matching the two short edges and leaving a 1⁄2in gap down each long edge., Turn the panel to the right side and stitch the strips in place with matching thread along the centre of the work, pushing all the strips in the same direction, with the first contrast fabric on top. , Working along one edge of the work, fold the edges of the strips so that the contrast fabric is visible and pin in place.
Take care not to pull the pieces tight or the shape of your work will be distorted.
Do not fold the last strip as yet, just pin in place. , Stitch the folded edges in place with matching thread so that the stitching passes through the points.
Repeat with the opposite edge of the piece.
Trim the long edges to a scant 1⁄4 inch (10.2 cm) from the stitched line, making sure that the last strip is just pinned in place.
The piece should measure 81⁄2in wide. , The wadding should butt together to avoid a bulky join.
Fold and stitch both ends of the last strip in place., Iron the 4 x 8in piece of fusible wadding onto the wrong side of the base fabric, leaving 1⁄4in all round.
Secure the base with simple quilting (optional) and mark the centre of each side of the base with a pin. , Mark the lower edge of the design panel in four equal sections, beginning at the seam.
Position the join in the panel to the centre of one of the short sides of the base.
Right sides together, pin the base to the design panel, easing the panel to fit the base.
Stitch together with a 1⁄4in seam, clipping the edges of the design panel at the corners of the base.
Again, the edges of the wadding should butt together to avoid a bulky join. , Press the two 2 x 24in strips of fusible wadding onto the wrong side of the 5 x 25in bag top section, leaving a 1⁄8in gap between the two pieces and 1⁄2in all the way round.
Right sides together, fold in half and stitch with a 1⁄2in seam; press open. , Take the 2 1/2x32in strips.
Wrong sides together, press each long strip in half.
Open up and bring the side edges to the centre and refold along the crease line.
This will give you four thicknesses of fabric.
Beginning 2 1⁄2in from the top end, stitch down the long (open double fold) side close to the edge, finishing 2 1⁄2in from the bottom end. , Cut two pieces of piping cord each 27in long (It’s a good idea to wrap clear sticky tape around each cut end to prevent fraying).
Attach a safety pin to one end and thread through the handle tube, leaving 21⁄2in of unstitched fabric only at each end. , Take the 4 x 6in pieces of fabric and fusible interfacing: fuse the interfacing to the wrong side., Mark a point at the end of one short side and draw diagonal lines to it from the sides to form the tab point.
Stitch with a 1⁄4in seam along the dotted lines.
Trim away the excess fabric and the bulk from the points.
Turn through to the right side, press and top stitch close to the edge around three finished sides.
Work a buttonhole at the point. , Position both ends of one handle onto the top edge of one side (right side) of the design panel with right sides together and the handles an equal distance from the centre.
Stitch in place 1⁄4in from the edge.
Right sides together, stitch the fastening tab in the centre.
See Figure
16. , Pin the top bag section to the top edge of the bag, right sides together and matching the joins in both pieces.
Using a 1⁄4in seam, stitch all round the top of the bag; press so that the edges of the wadding butt together to avoid a bulky join. ,, Place the template plastic between the two 5 x 9in lining pieces so that the right sides of the fabric are outside.
Stitch all round, close the edge of the plastic.
You may need to use the zipper foot to stitch close to the edge. , Stitch the seam in two parts.
Sew 1⁄2in along the seam, leave a 5in gap and then continue sewing to the end., Position the join to the centre of one of the short sides of the base.
Stitch together with a 1⁄2in seam, clipping the edges of the lining at the corners of the base., Make sure that the top edges are in line, that vertical seams are matching and that the handles and straps are tucked inside.
Stitch around the top edge with a 1⁄2in seam.
Turn the bag right side out through the gap in the lining.
Slipstitch the lining closed., Make sure that the lining is in place.
Quilt four horizontal rows 1⁄2in apart through all layers of the top section, including the lower part of the handles and the tab., -
Step 3: Fusible Wadding Cut.
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Step 4: Make the lining cut.
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Step 5: Plan the strip.
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Step 6: Join and cut the strips.
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Step 7: Make the first background strip.
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Step 8: Sew the strips.
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Step 9: Make the second background strip.
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Step 10: Repeat.
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Step 11: Fuse the wadding.
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Step 12: Stitch the strips.
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Step 13: Pin contrast fabric.
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Step 14: Piece the strips.
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Step 15: With right sides together
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Step 16: join the two short edges together with a 1⁄4in seam to form a tube.
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Step 17: Prepare the base.
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Step 18: Join the design panel and the base.
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Step 19: Prepare the bag top section.
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Step 20: Prepare the handles.
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Step 21: Thread the handle tube.
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Step 22: Fasten the tab.
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Step 23: Fold the piece in half lengthwise
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Step 24: right sides together.
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Step 25: Attaching the handles and fastening tab.
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Step 26: Attach the bag top.
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Step 27: Stitch the second handle on the back design panel.
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Step 28: Creating the lining pieces.
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Step 29: Take the 8 1⁄2 x 25in rectangle of lining fabric and fold in half right sides together.
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Step 30: Right sides together
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Step 31: pin the base to the lining piece (as for the bag).
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Step 32: Turn the bag to the wrong side and put the lining inside the bag so that the right side of the bag and the right side of the lining are together.
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Step 33: Fold the top edge of the bag so that it folds naturally along the 1⁄8in gap left between the two strips of fusible wadding inside the top section.
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Step 34: Stitch the button in place and your bag is complete.
Detailed Guide
From the background fabric, cut the following:
Two 5in wide strips across the width of the fabric.
From one strip, crosscut one 4 1⁄2 x 8 1⁄2in rectangle for the base and two 2 1⁄2in wide strips across the width of the fabric, each trimmed to 32in, for the handles.
From the second strip, cut a 5 x 25in rectangle for the bag top section and a 4 x 6in rectangle for the fastening tab.
One 9in wide strip across the width of the fabric.
Cross-cut to give 24 1 1⁄2 x 9in rectangles for the design panel.
Take the two fat quarters and place them right sides together on your cutting mat.
Keeping them together, fold in half width wise.
Making sure you cut through all four layers, cut 12 1 1⁄2in wide strips. , From the fusible wadding, cut the following:
One 8 x 24in rectangle for the design panel One 4 x 8in rectangle for the base Two 2 x 24in strips for the bag top section. , From the lining, cut the following:
One 8 1⁄2 x 25in rectangle Two 5 x 9in rectangles If you are using a fat quarter, cut two 81⁄2 x 13in rectangles and join with a 1⁄2in seam to make a 81⁄2 x 25in rectangle. , Take the 9 x 24in piece of medium weight interfacing and using a soft pencil, draw 23 lines at 1in intervals.
See Figure
2. , Take each of the 12 pairs of contrast strips cut from the fat quarters and, keeping each pair right sides together, join them lengthwise.
Press the seam open and then fold the piece along the stitching line so that the right sides are to the outside.
Cut each piece in half to yield two pieces each 1 1⁄4 x 9in. , Take one strip of background fabric and place it, right side up, onto the marked interfacing so that the edge of the strip lies along the first marked line.
The strip will have a 1⁄2in seam allowance overhanging the bottom edge of the interfacing.
See Figure
4. , Take a stitched double contrast strip and place on top of the background strip, matching the raw edges.
A 1⁄4in of the background fabric will show underneath the stitched edge of the double strip.
Stitch through all layers 1⁄4in from the raw edges.
See Figure
5. , Place a second background strip right side down directly on top of the contrast strip.
Stitch again through all layers 1⁄4in from the raw edges.
Turn this second strip over to the right side and finger press in place; the contrast strip will form a lose flap.
You can combine steps 7 and 8 and stitch all the layers together in one operation., Repeat steps 7 and 8 until all 24 strips are stitched onto the interfacing with a background strip under each double contrast strip.
See Figures 5–6., Fuse the 8 x 24in rectangle of wadding onto the back of the panel, matching the two short edges and leaving a 1⁄2in gap down each long edge., Turn the panel to the right side and stitch the strips in place with matching thread along the centre of the work, pushing all the strips in the same direction, with the first contrast fabric on top. , Working along one edge of the work, fold the edges of the strips so that the contrast fabric is visible and pin in place.
Take care not to pull the pieces tight or the shape of your work will be distorted.
Do not fold the last strip as yet, just pin in place. , Stitch the folded edges in place with matching thread so that the stitching passes through the points.
Repeat with the opposite edge of the piece.
Trim the long edges to a scant 1⁄4 inch (10.2 cm) from the stitched line, making sure that the last strip is just pinned in place.
The piece should measure 81⁄2in wide. , The wadding should butt together to avoid a bulky join.
Fold and stitch both ends of the last strip in place., Iron the 4 x 8in piece of fusible wadding onto the wrong side of the base fabric, leaving 1⁄4in all round.
Secure the base with simple quilting (optional) and mark the centre of each side of the base with a pin. , Mark the lower edge of the design panel in four equal sections, beginning at the seam.
Position the join in the panel to the centre of one of the short sides of the base.
Right sides together, pin the base to the design panel, easing the panel to fit the base.
Stitch together with a 1⁄4in seam, clipping the edges of the design panel at the corners of the base.
Again, the edges of the wadding should butt together to avoid a bulky join. , Press the two 2 x 24in strips of fusible wadding onto the wrong side of the 5 x 25in bag top section, leaving a 1⁄8in gap between the two pieces and 1⁄2in all the way round.
Right sides together, fold in half and stitch with a 1⁄2in seam; press open. , Take the 2 1/2x32in strips.
Wrong sides together, press each long strip in half.
Open up and bring the side edges to the centre and refold along the crease line.
This will give you four thicknesses of fabric.
Beginning 2 1⁄2in from the top end, stitch down the long (open double fold) side close to the edge, finishing 2 1⁄2in from the bottom end. , Cut two pieces of piping cord each 27in long (It’s a good idea to wrap clear sticky tape around each cut end to prevent fraying).
Attach a safety pin to one end and thread through the handle tube, leaving 21⁄2in of unstitched fabric only at each end. , Take the 4 x 6in pieces of fabric and fusible interfacing: fuse the interfacing to the wrong side., Mark a point at the end of one short side and draw diagonal lines to it from the sides to form the tab point.
Stitch with a 1⁄4in seam along the dotted lines.
Trim away the excess fabric and the bulk from the points.
Turn through to the right side, press and top stitch close to the edge around three finished sides.
Work a buttonhole at the point. , Position both ends of one handle onto the top edge of one side (right side) of the design panel with right sides together and the handles an equal distance from the centre.
Stitch in place 1⁄4in from the edge.
Right sides together, stitch the fastening tab in the centre.
See Figure
16. , Pin the top bag section to the top edge of the bag, right sides together and matching the joins in both pieces.
Using a 1⁄4in seam, stitch all round the top of the bag; press so that the edges of the wadding butt together to avoid a bulky join. ,, Place the template plastic between the two 5 x 9in lining pieces so that the right sides of the fabric are outside.
Stitch all round, close the edge of the plastic.
You may need to use the zipper foot to stitch close to the edge. , Stitch the seam in two parts.
Sew 1⁄2in along the seam, leave a 5in gap and then continue sewing to the end., Position the join to the centre of one of the short sides of the base.
Stitch together with a 1⁄2in seam, clipping the edges of the lining at the corners of the base., Make sure that the top edges are in line, that vertical seams are matching and that the handles and straps are tucked inside.
Stitch around the top edge with a 1⁄2in seam.
Turn the bag right side out through the gap in the lining.
Slipstitch the lining closed., Make sure that the lining is in place.
Quilt four horizontal rows 1⁄2in apart through all layers of the top section, including the lower part of the handles and the tab.,
About the Author
Judith James
Specializes in breaking down complex home improvement topics into simple steps.
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