How to Reupholster a Chair
Place a chisel under the edge of the tack or other fastener., Tap the end of the chisel with a wooden mallet. , Gently lever the tack (or other fastener) upwards., Store the removed tacks in a bag or place straight into the disposal bin., Use a...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Place a chisel under the edge of the tack or other fastener.
Do this gently and repetitively until the tack becomes free of the wood. , This will avoid accidentally treading on sharp objects. , This is a specialized upholstery tool that removes staples from furniture; these can be purchased online or from specialty stores. , Lever the regulator upwards, pushing on the edge of the wood.
If the timber is polished or the area is on view, place a slim piece of aluminum or other metal strip on the fabric and press into that instead of into the wood.
This will avoid leaving marks from the pressure of the regulator. , The other end will stay intact usually. , Slightly twist as you pull firmly to remove the whole staple from the wood. , Some people prefer the production line approach of lifting the staples with the regulator first, then going back and plucking out each lifted staple next, to save constant chopping and changing between two different actions. , Once the fasteners have been removed, you can take the old fabric off and use the panels to prepare the new fabric. , Don't be lazy here––the effort put in now will pay big dividends in accuracy later.
It helps to draw a basic sketch of the chair in relation to each fabric panel removed and to note a corresponding letter or number to each fabric piece, written on both the sketch and the fabric piece's backing.
Note special tucks, pleats, folds, etc. so that you can repeat these when making up the new upholstery fabric. , This is helpful for adding the fabric panels back on in back-to-front order.
Chair panels are usually labeled as follows:
IB = inside back OB = outside back IW = inside wing OW = outside wing IA = inside arm OA = outside arm S = seat SC = seat cushion FB = front border SB = side border AF = arm facing SK = skirt , As much as possible, try to keep the stuffing intact and not torn apart.
It's original positioning has been settled by years of sitting, so it's already perfect for fitting the chair.
Lift off using both hands right up to your folded elbow pits.
Have a clean, flat place to put the stuffing onto while you continue working with the upholstery. , In some cases, you'll need to cut stuffing that has been glued into place.
Use a knife with a long blade to slide neatly under it, such as a serrated knife or a snap-blade knife.
Slide along and cut as carefully as you can. , You might find that the stuffing has been held in place by more staples or tacks, or by string.
Remove staples or tacks as explained above and simply cut the string. , Does it need repair or can it be left alone? If it can be left alone, you can get on with preparing the new fabric covering.
If not, you'll need to make frame repairs to the chair. , It can be tricky but it is possible to do many frame repairs yourself.
The thing you cannot do is avoid making repairs––a chair left with weaknesses will soon break.
Take the chair to an upholsterer or a cabinet-maker if you're not keen to do self-repairs. , If these need straightening or tightening and re-gluing, do so yourself.
Simply pull the chair rails in different directions to test for wobbliness or weakness.
If there is none, the joints have no issues.
If they move or bend, they need mending.
Older furniture will have staples, screws or tongue-and-groove joints.
Unless you know what you're doing, any broken tongue-and-groove joints may need the help of a professional.
Don't be too forceful when testing––dowel joints that were snug might come loose with too much pulling. , If you need to reglue joints, the corner block will need to removed first.
It is a triangular piece located in the inside corner of the chair seat frame and it might be glued, screwed or nailed in place.
To remove:
Put the end point of a ripping chisel into the edge of the corner block where it meets one side of the chair frame.
Tape the end of the chisel with a wooden mallet.
As the chisel slips in further, lever the block away from the chair frame, pushing downwards.
Be careful not to push too hard or the chisel can snap; if you feel any give, pull the chisel out and push by hand only.
Repeat for other corner blocks. , Lay the chair down on a workbench with the side needing repairing facing upward nearest you (not on the bench).
Hold the chair firmly.
Tap next to the joint with a rubber mallet to try to ease it apart.
If it is stubborn, don't force it.
Remove the parted joint.
Clean and sand it to remove old glue. , If you discover a dowel is broken, it will need to be fixed before restoring the joint in place.
Chisel the dowel flat enough to be drilled on.
Then drill off the old dowel, taking care not to drill into the chair frame's wood.
Squeeze some wood glue into the old dowel hole, then insert the new dowel.
Tap in lightly with a hammer.
Wipe away any excess glue, then let dry completely. , Fill in dowel holes with the wood glue.
Gently but firmly push the joints back together again. , Wipe away excess glue to prevent it from drying as obvious blobs on the chair frame.
Restore the corner blocks, again wiping away excess glue before it dries. , In general, upholstery fabric needs to be strong, to withstand being sat on and moved about on.
The following fabrics are recommended:
Cotton:
Heavy duty cotton is suitable for infrequent domestic use.
Linen:
This is a strong fabric that can stand light to medium domestic use.
It's a lovely upholstery covering that looks classic and wears well.
Jacquard:
This is cotton fabric mixed with synthetics such as nylon or polyester, to strengthen it.
This fabric can handle medium to heavy domestic use and is also suitable for some commercial purposes.
Vinyl:
Also known as synthetic leather, this covering is strong and waterproof.
It can handle medium to heavy domestic use, as well as commercial use.
Just be aware that it's not ideal for hot environments.
Tapestry:
This is a traditional upholstery fabric and it is strong.
It is also often expensive but you may be able to find some in bargain stores.
This fabric can be used for medium to heavy domestic use, and some commercial uses, such as a waiting room chair in a beauty salon.
It's ideal for antique furniture restoration.
Velvet:
This strong and soft fabric is a long-lasting upholstery covering.
It's nice to work with and suits medium to heavy domestic use.
It's a bit of work to clean, so may not be ideal for commercial uses.
If you have leftover upholstery fabric or fabric that is strong enough to use for chair coverings, this might be all you need to use. , This method requires that you took great care with the fabric panels and removed them without cutting into them, as you'll use the old panels for your pattern templates. , Any parts sewn together need to be unpicked, as this will free the seam allowances already made by the prior maker.
Always add sufficient allowances for sewing and attaching of panels when making up the new measurements. , Keep as straight as you possibly can. , Simply lay each former panel direct onto the new fabric and using chalk or invisible fabric pen, draw around each panel in turn. , Key things to bear in mind include:
Cut with the right side facing you––you need to be able to see the fabric grain at all times.
For symmetrical panels, cut halfway, then bend over to check that the panel is exactly the same on its opposite side.
If yes, keep cutting.
Or, make adjustments as needed.
Cut all pieces in the same direction, same thread line.
Mark all cut pieces with the panel names you've chosen, to prevent mix-ups.
Write down the correct indicator for the exact panel piece, using the standard labels recommended above.
Add the directional arrow as well, so you know which way it needs to go.
Be careful about marking delicate fabrics that might show the markings through the other side. , Make adjustments as needed. , This section is deliberately scant due to the fact that you need individual instructions depending on the chair type and the amount and type of panels being sewn.
In general, you'll need to sew seams in place, join front and back panels, arm panels, cushion panels, etc.
You'll also need to stitch a skirt if the chair has one.
You'll also need to add zippers and make any cuts needed to fit around parts of the chair.
Some more precise examples are provided in the chair type sections noted below.
Use straight seams for sewing upholstery fabric.
For pleats, etc., you'll need advanced sewing skills.
If not, ask for help from a more experienced sewer.
Strong fabric can easily break a domestic sewing machine; you may need access to an industrial one, or send the pieces along for someone else to stitch together for you. ,, Refer to the list you made earlier. , Pull taut to ensure no wrinkles and follow the same positions where the tacks, etc. were placed previously.
A tack hammer is required for adding tacks.
Masking tape can be placed over the head to soften its impact against the chair frame. -
Step 2: Tap the end of the chisel with a wooden mallet.
-
Step 3: Gently lever the tack (or other fastener) upwards.
-
Step 4: Store the removed tacks in a bag or place straight into the disposal bin.
-
Step 5: Use a regulator to remove staples.
-
Step 6: Slip the end of the regulator under the center of the staple.
-
Step 7: Wait for one end of the staple to pop out.
-
Step 8: Use pincers
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Step 9: pliers or side cutters to grasp the staple.
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Step 10: Continue until all staples are removed.
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Step 11: Lift the fabric panels off the chair seat
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Step 12: back and arms.
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Step 13: Mark the removed fabric panels with arrows
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Step 14: letters and any other indicators that will help you draw the same pattern for the new fabric.
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Step 15: As you remove the panels
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Step 16: list their order.
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Step 17: Lift the stuffing out gently.
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Step 18: Cut glued stuffing.
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Step 19: Remove other fasteners.
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Step 20: Check the chair base.
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Step 21: Decide whether you're up to doing this part by yourself or whether you'd prefer it done professionally.
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Step 22: Check glued joints first.
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Step 23: Check for corner blocks.
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Step 24: Repair the joints.
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Step 25: Replace broken dowels.
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Step 26: Restore the joints.
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Step 27: Clamp the entire chair frame to put sufficient pressure on the joints to dry in place.
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Step 28: Choose the right type of fabric.
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Step 29: Measure the new fabric to make new coverings.
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Step 30: Unpick the panels.
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Step 31: Iron the panels flat.
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Step 32: Use the old panels to make new templates.
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Step 33: Cut the fabric panels.
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Step 34: Lay each panel on the chair to check for fit.
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Step 35: Sew as required.
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Step 36: Restore the stuffing where appropriate.
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Step 37: Replace the panels on in the backwards order to that in which you removed them.
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Step 38: Hammer tacks
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Step 39: staple staples or use other fasteners to keep the new fabric in place.
Detailed Guide
Do this gently and repetitively until the tack becomes free of the wood. , This will avoid accidentally treading on sharp objects. , This is a specialized upholstery tool that removes staples from furniture; these can be purchased online or from specialty stores. , Lever the regulator upwards, pushing on the edge of the wood.
If the timber is polished or the area is on view, place a slim piece of aluminum or other metal strip on the fabric and press into that instead of into the wood.
This will avoid leaving marks from the pressure of the regulator. , The other end will stay intact usually. , Slightly twist as you pull firmly to remove the whole staple from the wood. , Some people prefer the production line approach of lifting the staples with the regulator first, then going back and plucking out each lifted staple next, to save constant chopping and changing between two different actions. , Once the fasteners have been removed, you can take the old fabric off and use the panels to prepare the new fabric. , Don't be lazy here––the effort put in now will pay big dividends in accuracy later.
It helps to draw a basic sketch of the chair in relation to each fabric panel removed and to note a corresponding letter or number to each fabric piece, written on both the sketch and the fabric piece's backing.
Note special tucks, pleats, folds, etc. so that you can repeat these when making up the new upholstery fabric. , This is helpful for adding the fabric panels back on in back-to-front order.
Chair panels are usually labeled as follows:
IB = inside back OB = outside back IW = inside wing OW = outside wing IA = inside arm OA = outside arm S = seat SC = seat cushion FB = front border SB = side border AF = arm facing SK = skirt , As much as possible, try to keep the stuffing intact and not torn apart.
It's original positioning has been settled by years of sitting, so it's already perfect for fitting the chair.
Lift off using both hands right up to your folded elbow pits.
Have a clean, flat place to put the stuffing onto while you continue working with the upholstery. , In some cases, you'll need to cut stuffing that has been glued into place.
Use a knife with a long blade to slide neatly under it, such as a serrated knife or a snap-blade knife.
Slide along and cut as carefully as you can. , You might find that the stuffing has been held in place by more staples or tacks, or by string.
Remove staples or tacks as explained above and simply cut the string. , Does it need repair or can it be left alone? If it can be left alone, you can get on with preparing the new fabric covering.
If not, you'll need to make frame repairs to the chair. , It can be tricky but it is possible to do many frame repairs yourself.
The thing you cannot do is avoid making repairs––a chair left with weaknesses will soon break.
Take the chair to an upholsterer or a cabinet-maker if you're not keen to do self-repairs. , If these need straightening or tightening and re-gluing, do so yourself.
Simply pull the chair rails in different directions to test for wobbliness or weakness.
If there is none, the joints have no issues.
If they move or bend, they need mending.
Older furniture will have staples, screws or tongue-and-groove joints.
Unless you know what you're doing, any broken tongue-and-groove joints may need the help of a professional.
Don't be too forceful when testing––dowel joints that were snug might come loose with too much pulling. , If you need to reglue joints, the corner block will need to removed first.
It is a triangular piece located in the inside corner of the chair seat frame and it might be glued, screwed or nailed in place.
To remove:
Put the end point of a ripping chisel into the edge of the corner block where it meets one side of the chair frame.
Tape the end of the chisel with a wooden mallet.
As the chisel slips in further, lever the block away from the chair frame, pushing downwards.
Be careful not to push too hard or the chisel can snap; if you feel any give, pull the chisel out and push by hand only.
Repeat for other corner blocks. , Lay the chair down on a workbench with the side needing repairing facing upward nearest you (not on the bench).
Hold the chair firmly.
Tap next to the joint with a rubber mallet to try to ease it apart.
If it is stubborn, don't force it.
Remove the parted joint.
Clean and sand it to remove old glue. , If you discover a dowel is broken, it will need to be fixed before restoring the joint in place.
Chisel the dowel flat enough to be drilled on.
Then drill off the old dowel, taking care not to drill into the chair frame's wood.
Squeeze some wood glue into the old dowel hole, then insert the new dowel.
Tap in lightly with a hammer.
Wipe away any excess glue, then let dry completely. , Fill in dowel holes with the wood glue.
Gently but firmly push the joints back together again. , Wipe away excess glue to prevent it from drying as obvious blobs on the chair frame.
Restore the corner blocks, again wiping away excess glue before it dries. , In general, upholstery fabric needs to be strong, to withstand being sat on and moved about on.
The following fabrics are recommended:
Cotton:
Heavy duty cotton is suitable for infrequent domestic use.
Linen:
This is a strong fabric that can stand light to medium domestic use.
It's a lovely upholstery covering that looks classic and wears well.
Jacquard:
This is cotton fabric mixed with synthetics such as nylon or polyester, to strengthen it.
This fabric can handle medium to heavy domestic use and is also suitable for some commercial purposes.
Vinyl:
Also known as synthetic leather, this covering is strong and waterproof.
It can handle medium to heavy domestic use, as well as commercial use.
Just be aware that it's not ideal for hot environments.
Tapestry:
This is a traditional upholstery fabric and it is strong.
It is also often expensive but you may be able to find some in bargain stores.
This fabric can be used for medium to heavy domestic use, and some commercial uses, such as a waiting room chair in a beauty salon.
It's ideal for antique furniture restoration.
Velvet:
This strong and soft fabric is a long-lasting upholstery covering.
It's nice to work with and suits medium to heavy domestic use.
It's a bit of work to clean, so may not be ideal for commercial uses.
If you have leftover upholstery fabric or fabric that is strong enough to use for chair coverings, this might be all you need to use. , This method requires that you took great care with the fabric panels and removed them without cutting into them, as you'll use the old panels for your pattern templates. , Any parts sewn together need to be unpicked, as this will free the seam allowances already made by the prior maker.
Always add sufficient allowances for sewing and attaching of panels when making up the new measurements. , Keep as straight as you possibly can. , Simply lay each former panel direct onto the new fabric and using chalk or invisible fabric pen, draw around each panel in turn. , Key things to bear in mind include:
Cut with the right side facing you––you need to be able to see the fabric grain at all times.
For symmetrical panels, cut halfway, then bend over to check that the panel is exactly the same on its opposite side.
If yes, keep cutting.
Or, make adjustments as needed.
Cut all pieces in the same direction, same thread line.
Mark all cut pieces with the panel names you've chosen, to prevent mix-ups.
Write down the correct indicator for the exact panel piece, using the standard labels recommended above.
Add the directional arrow as well, so you know which way it needs to go.
Be careful about marking delicate fabrics that might show the markings through the other side. , Make adjustments as needed. , This section is deliberately scant due to the fact that you need individual instructions depending on the chair type and the amount and type of panels being sewn.
In general, you'll need to sew seams in place, join front and back panels, arm panels, cushion panels, etc.
You'll also need to stitch a skirt if the chair has one.
You'll also need to add zippers and make any cuts needed to fit around parts of the chair.
Some more precise examples are provided in the chair type sections noted below.
Use straight seams for sewing upholstery fabric.
For pleats, etc., you'll need advanced sewing skills.
If not, ask for help from a more experienced sewer.
Strong fabric can easily break a domestic sewing machine; you may need access to an industrial one, or send the pieces along for someone else to stitch together for you. ,, Refer to the list you made earlier. , Pull taut to ensure no wrinkles and follow the same positions where the tacks, etc. were placed previously.
A tack hammer is required for adding tacks.
Masking tape can be placed over the head to soften its impact against the chair frame.
About the Author
Evelyn Castillo
Brings years of experience writing about creative arts and related subjects.
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