How to Tile a Shower
Gut the shower stall down to the studs., Choose a vapor barrier to install and introduce according to manufacturer directions., Put up a sturdy cement board backer., Lay the drywall., Feather any edges with seam tape and thin set mortar where the...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Gut the shower stall down to the studs.
You may need to remove the shower pan and ceiling, as well.
Do not put down any plastic because this can trap moisture and lead to rotting.
Instead, use a product that you can paint on to help prevent moisture. -
Step 2: Choose a vapor barrier to install and introduce according to manufacturer directions.
If you fail to install a vapor barrier, you might grow mold and mildew as moisture from your shower escapes through the tiles and into walls.
Improperly installed tile and grout can allow water vapor to pass into the space behind.
When installing a vapor barrier on an exterior wall, it may be helpful to seal a plastic vapor barrier to the concrete floor but not all the way up to the top of the ceiling.
With insulation improperly installed, or in colder climates, there's a chance that condensation that forms behind the vapor barrier will cause the framing members to rot.
In order to avoid that possibility, install the vapor barrier with space to spare so that the gap behind the vapor barrier can breathe.
Use a roll on product, such as Red Guard.Wedi boards are another option some consider even better than cement board.
If you choose a membranous barrier such as Trugard or Kerdi, you can install plain old drywall or you can just install a cement board instead. , Putting up cement board is just like putting up drywall.
You cut it to fit using a grinder with a diamond bit, and then screw it to the studs.
Leave a 1/8" gap between panels and then a very small space between the shower pan and the bottom of the backer so that the two don't squeak by rubbing together.
Use a hole saw with a carbide bit to cut the holes where the shower head and handles would come through.
Make the cement board flush with the tile lip of your shower pan by using shims behind the board to bring it out to the desired thickness.
Make sure to use composite shims.
Use 100% silicone caulk to seal the seams between the panels and then apply the silicone behind the board on the stud.
Add some seam tape between the panels as well. , If using crown molding near the ceiling, lay down 12 to 18 inches (30.5 to
45.7Â cm) of drywall instead of cement board.
Nails used to fix the crown molding in place will not travel through the cement backer; you'll need to use moisture-resistant drywall such as greenboard in order to take the nails and affix the molding. , If there's a gap between the backer board and the wallboard, you'll want to use seam tape and then feather the gap with thin set mortar so that it appears as one continuous back.
Remember that the seams must remain tight with gaps 3/16" or smaller. , After you've feathered the edges to remove the gap, apply a high quality water resistant exterior primer over the feathered wallboard and backer. , Measure up from the bottom of the backer board the height of a tile minus 1/2".
This will give you a 1/2" overlap over the tile lip on your shower pan.
Make sure that you allow room for the grout joints as well.
Mark this with a sharpie or chalk and using a level, transfer the mark across the shower stall.
This will be a guide for the top of the first row so that all tiles will be level.
Only use dry tiles make sure that the lay out works as well.
Another way to plan out the first row of tiles is to measure the high part and low part of the shower pan.
Make the cut spot on the low end a full tile, mark it, and then cut the tiles on the high side down to the level of the uncut tile on the low side.
Keeping grout lines away from the inside corners of the enclosure can prevent the need for tiny tiles and poor grout joints.
Plan accordingly and always make cuts tight on the inside corner. , You want your thin-set to be the consistency of peanut butter — not too thick or it will dry out and not too thin or you'll have a hard time setting the mortar with strength and cleaning.
Use an electric drill and a mortar mixing bit attached to your drill to mix your thin-set mortar.
This will ensure even consistency and ultimately a better product.
Let the mortar set for seven minutes and then mix it again. , If you do not, the cement board will draw the moisture out of the thin-set too quickly, making for a brittle set that is susceptible to cracking. , Apply mortar to the backer board along with back buttering and then set the tiles on top of that.
It's a lot cleaner, too! Be sure not to apply too much mortar to the back of a tile.
You only need a little in each corner and a little dab in the middle for back buttering.
More isn't necessarily better when it comes to thin-set.
Keep in mind that back buttering is only necessary when you are using a larger tile (8" x 8" or larger) and you only need to add a little dab of thin set mortar to each corner. , This will create a pleasant visual effect and allow each tile that is placed beside it on either side seem centered.
After back buttering, simply press the tile onto the backer board and apply pressure to make sure that the mortar adhered properly to both the tile and the backer board.
Then, give the tile a little twist and tap each one with a rubber mallet, especially the floor tiles.
Wipe away any excess thin-set mortar after pressing the tile onto the backer.
Although you'll be grouting and caulking between the tiles, it's best not to leave any thin-set on oozing out from the sides of the tile.
Dig out any oozing thin-set that you notice.
Simply wipe away excess thinset with your finger or a Q-tip.
Use small shims or other spacers to allow a small amount of space between the bottom of the tile and the lip of the shower pan.Small pieces of cardboard work great as makeshift shims.
After the mortar is set, you can simply remove these shims and caulk between the lip of the pan and the bottom of the tile. , Spacers will leave you identifiable grout lines between tiles.
Small 1/16" or 1/8" spacers (or even bigger) can be placed at several places on the x- and y-axis of the tile to leave adequate space for an even grout line. , Continue until you reach the top of the shower stall.
Measure up from top of the last row.
Mark the line with a level as a guide for your next row.
Spread thin-set onto your tiles with v-notched trowel and place the tile just below the marked line.
Use spacers all around.
Make sure to measure every third or fourth row to ensure that you have an even grout line. , This will make sure that the mortar has adhered properly to both the tile backing and the cement board backer. , Mix up a batch of grout and let it rest for 5 to 7 minutes.
Lightly wet the area you'll be grouting with a damp sponge and dump a bit of grout onto the area.
Use a rubber float to smooth it into the joints, attacking each joint at a diagonal angle.
After 30-40 minutes (check the directions on the bag of grout) you want to wipe the excess grout with a damp sponge and a circular motion.
Keep wiping with a clean sponge until the tile is clear.
The tiles may look a bit hazy even after wiping, so you may have to buff them with a clean sponge to get rid of this haze. , Then, seal the grout.
Run a thin bead of liquid grout or aerosol grout sealer onto the grout line and wipe away.
Let dry and then test its water resistance by dropping water onto the sealed grout.
Correctly sealed grout will cause the water to bead up on top of it. , Make sure to use a grout caulk to match the colors.
As you caulk, remember to pull the caulk gun relatively quickly across the joint.
Most amateurs caulk too slow and end up dropping too much caulk down on the joint.
Other things to remember:
Keep the tip angled as you run the bead along the joint.
Match the speed with which you pull the caulk gun trigger with the rate at which you pull the gun along the joint.
You don't want to be pulling the gun fast but triggering slowly, or vice versa.
After applying the bead of caulk, "bed" it by running a damp finger across the bead with light pressure.
Make sure that your grout chalk matches the grout.
Let the caulk dry and redo it if you are not happy with the results. -
Step 3: Put up a sturdy cement board backer.
-
Step 4: Lay the drywall.
-
Step 5: Feather any edges with seam tape and thin set mortar where the backer board meets the wallboard.
-
Step 6: Paint a water resistant primer over any areas you intend to tile.
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Step 7: Mark your tile layout on the substrate and mark out your first course carefully.If your shower enclosure walls are not perfectly square
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Step 8: or if you plan to install accent tiles
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Step 9: the layout of these tiles becomes increasingly important.
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Step 10: Mix enough thin-set for the bottom row.
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Step 11: Dampen the cement board with a sponge before applying the mortar.
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Step 12: Trowel some thin-set onto the back of the tile and spread it with a notched trowel.This process is called "back buttering."
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Step 13: Set the first tile in the middle of the wall (or floor).
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Step 14: Continue laying the tile
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Step 15: making sure to use spacers in between tiles.
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Step 16: Repeat the procedure
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Step 17: setting each row of tile on top of the last row of tile.
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Step 18: Let the tile set for 48 hours.
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Step 19: Grout the tile.
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Step 20: Let the grout cure for approximately 3 days before sealing.
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Step 21: Caulk any needed areas.
Detailed Guide
You may need to remove the shower pan and ceiling, as well.
Do not put down any plastic because this can trap moisture and lead to rotting.
Instead, use a product that you can paint on to help prevent moisture.
If you fail to install a vapor barrier, you might grow mold and mildew as moisture from your shower escapes through the tiles and into walls.
Improperly installed tile and grout can allow water vapor to pass into the space behind.
When installing a vapor barrier on an exterior wall, it may be helpful to seal a plastic vapor barrier to the concrete floor but not all the way up to the top of the ceiling.
With insulation improperly installed, or in colder climates, there's a chance that condensation that forms behind the vapor barrier will cause the framing members to rot.
In order to avoid that possibility, install the vapor barrier with space to spare so that the gap behind the vapor barrier can breathe.
Use a roll on product, such as Red Guard.Wedi boards are another option some consider even better than cement board.
If you choose a membranous barrier such as Trugard or Kerdi, you can install plain old drywall or you can just install a cement board instead. , Putting up cement board is just like putting up drywall.
You cut it to fit using a grinder with a diamond bit, and then screw it to the studs.
Leave a 1/8" gap between panels and then a very small space between the shower pan and the bottom of the backer so that the two don't squeak by rubbing together.
Use a hole saw with a carbide bit to cut the holes where the shower head and handles would come through.
Make the cement board flush with the tile lip of your shower pan by using shims behind the board to bring it out to the desired thickness.
Make sure to use composite shims.
Use 100% silicone caulk to seal the seams between the panels and then apply the silicone behind the board on the stud.
Add some seam tape between the panels as well. , If using crown molding near the ceiling, lay down 12 to 18 inches (30.5 to
45.7Â cm) of drywall instead of cement board.
Nails used to fix the crown molding in place will not travel through the cement backer; you'll need to use moisture-resistant drywall such as greenboard in order to take the nails and affix the molding. , If there's a gap between the backer board and the wallboard, you'll want to use seam tape and then feather the gap with thin set mortar so that it appears as one continuous back.
Remember that the seams must remain tight with gaps 3/16" or smaller. , After you've feathered the edges to remove the gap, apply a high quality water resistant exterior primer over the feathered wallboard and backer. , Measure up from the bottom of the backer board the height of a tile minus 1/2".
This will give you a 1/2" overlap over the tile lip on your shower pan.
Make sure that you allow room for the grout joints as well.
Mark this with a sharpie or chalk and using a level, transfer the mark across the shower stall.
This will be a guide for the top of the first row so that all tiles will be level.
Only use dry tiles make sure that the lay out works as well.
Another way to plan out the first row of tiles is to measure the high part and low part of the shower pan.
Make the cut spot on the low end a full tile, mark it, and then cut the tiles on the high side down to the level of the uncut tile on the low side.
Keeping grout lines away from the inside corners of the enclosure can prevent the need for tiny tiles and poor grout joints.
Plan accordingly and always make cuts tight on the inside corner. , You want your thin-set to be the consistency of peanut butter — not too thick or it will dry out and not too thin or you'll have a hard time setting the mortar with strength and cleaning.
Use an electric drill and a mortar mixing bit attached to your drill to mix your thin-set mortar.
This will ensure even consistency and ultimately a better product.
Let the mortar set for seven minutes and then mix it again. , If you do not, the cement board will draw the moisture out of the thin-set too quickly, making for a brittle set that is susceptible to cracking. , Apply mortar to the backer board along with back buttering and then set the tiles on top of that.
It's a lot cleaner, too! Be sure not to apply too much mortar to the back of a tile.
You only need a little in each corner and a little dab in the middle for back buttering.
More isn't necessarily better when it comes to thin-set.
Keep in mind that back buttering is only necessary when you are using a larger tile (8" x 8" or larger) and you only need to add a little dab of thin set mortar to each corner. , This will create a pleasant visual effect and allow each tile that is placed beside it on either side seem centered.
After back buttering, simply press the tile onto the backer board and apply pressure to make sure that the mortar adhered properly to both the tile and the backer board.
Then, give the tile a little twist and tap each one with a rubber mallet, especially the floor tiles.
Wipe away any excess thin-set mortar after pressing the tile onto the backer.
Although you'll be grouting and caulking between the tiles, it's best not to leave any thin-set on oozing out from the sides of the tile.
Dig out any oozing thin-set that you notice.
Simply wipe away excess thinset with your finger or a Q-tip.
Use small shims or other spacers to allow a small amount of space between the bottom of the tile and the lip of the shower pan.Small pieces of cardboard work great as makeshift shims.
After the mortar is set, you can simply remove these shims and caulk between the lip of the pan and the bottom of the tile. , Spacers will leave you identifiable grout lines between tiles.
Small 1/16" or 1/8" spacers (or even bigger) can be placed at several places on the x- and y-axis of the tile to leave adequate space for an even grout line. , Continue until you reach the top of the shower stall.
Measure up from top of the last row.
Mark the line with a level as a guide for your next row.
Spread thin-set onto your tiles with v-notched trowel and place the tile just below the marked line.
Use spacers all around.
Make sure to measure every third or fourth row to ensure that you have an even grout line. , This will make sure that the mortar has adhered properly to both the tile backing and the cement board backer. , Mix up a batch of grout and let it rest for 5 to 7 minutes.
Lightly wet the area you'll be grouting with a damp sponge and dump a bit of grout onto the area.
Use a rubber float to smooth it into the joints, attacking each joint at a diagonal angle.
After 30-40 minutes (check the directions on the bag of grout) you want to wipe the excess grout with a damp sponge and a circular motion.
Keep wiping with a clean sponge until the tile is clear.
The tiles may look a bit hazy even after wiping, so you may have to buff them with a clean sponge to get rid of this haze. , Then, seal the grout.
Run a thin bead of liquid grout or aerosol grout sealer onto the grout line and wipe away.
Let dry and then test its water resistance by dropping water onto the sealed grout.
Correctly sealed grout will cause the water to bead up on top of it. , Make sure to use a grout caulk to match the colors.
As you caulk, remember to pull the caulk gun relatively quickly across the joint.
Most amateurs caulk too slow and end up dropping too much caulk down on the joint.
Other things to remember:
Keep the tip angled as you run the bead along the joint.
Match the speed with which you pull the caulk gun trigger with the rate at which you pull the gun along the joint.
You don't want to be pulling the gun fast but triggering slowly, or vice versa.
After applying the bead of caulk, "bed" it by running a damp finger across the bead with light pressure.
Make sure that your grout chalk matches the grout.
Let the caulk dry and redo it if you are not happy with the results.
About the Author
Kimberly Rodriguez
Writer and educator with a focus on practical organization knowledge.
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