How to Use a Rough Cut Mower
Make sure your tractor is in good operating condition., Use a mower that is the correct size and configuration for your tractor., Adjust the sway chains/implement stabilizers so the mower cannot swing too far when turning corners., Check the...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Make sure your tractor is in good operating condition.
Since rough mowing may require going into brushy or bushy areas, you may want to modify the tractor to protect the front end components, such as the steering linkages and radiator screen to protect these from limbs or other hazards. -
Step 2: Use a mower that is the correct size and configuration for your tractor.
The manufacturers of rough cut mowers build and rate them according to two criteria:
Gearbox horsepower (torque).
A 50 horsepower tractor will likely damage a 25 horsepower mower gearbox under heavy load, and a 30 horsepower tractor cannot operate a large mower equipped with a 90 horsepower gearbox.
A good fit is no more than 10% difference in tractor/mower horsepower rating.
Cutting width.
Smaller tractors, obviously, will handle only smaller sized mowers.
For a typical 25 horsepower tractor, a 5 foot (1.5Â m) mower is recommended, where a 40 horsepower tractor should be able to handle a 6 foot (1.8Â m) mower, and larger tractors can handle proportionally larger mowers. , A mower deck can swing far enough, in certain cornering situations, to hit the rear tires of the tractor, possibly ruining it.
If using a flex-wing cutter, be sure to adjust the safety chains on the draw bar so there is enough slack for turning. , Keeping the mower in good condition will decrease the chance of a breakdown while you are mowing.
Some things that may need attention:
Gearbox lubrication.
Typical gear boxes have two pipe thread type plugs built into the housing.
One, at the top, is the fill hole, another, on the side, is the fill level.
Check oil level in the gear box and if needed remove both plugs, and pour oil in the upper hole until it begins to trickle out the lower one, then replace both plugs.
Ground wheel condition.
The ground wheel supports the rear of the mower to keep it from digging into the dirt if the mower is operated in unlevel conditions.
It should swivel easily so the mower follows when the tractor turns, and the wheel should turn freely on its axle.
Lubricate the grease fittings on this assembly, and make sure no debris is tangled around the wheel hub or axle.
Also check your tail wheel chains (if your cutter has them) to be sure they are in good condition.
Power take-off connector or "PTO".
Usually, this is a splined connection with a pin or spring-loaded locking mechanism to hold it in place.
There are several sizes of PTO shafts; if you have the correct tractor/mower combination, you will be able to slide the mower drive shaft onto the tractor PTO shaft without trouble.
Lubricating the splines on this assembly makes it easier to make the connection when changing out equipment.
Universal joints.
These are similar to the U-joints on a car or truck, and allow the drive shaft to travel without bending while it is rotating.
Make sure the universal joints are tight and grease them if they have grease fittings.
Also make sure the PTO shaft guards are in place and safety chains are attached to both the tractor and the implement when operating.
This will prevent vegetation from getting wrapped around them while cutting in dense areas.
Top-link connection.
The top link on a rough cut mower is not a fixed length, as are most other farm implements.
This is because the ground wheel raises and lowers the rear of the mower to follow the ground contour, and the top link would bind if it were a fixed length.
Make sure the top link adapter on your mower allows several inches of free travel, while still allowing the mower to be lifted clear of the ground while turning.
If, while cutting, you notice the mower still has to much "free travel" take up more slack on the top link.
Mower blades.
A 5 foot (1.5Â m) rough cut mower is usually equipped with two 24 inch (61.0Â cm) blades, attached to the blade mounting plate under the mower deck.
These should be balanced and sharp for good, clean, and vibration free service.
If blades are worn bad on the edges it is best to just replace them with a new set instead of trying to sharpen a badly worn set and getting them balanced.
The blade mounting plate.
Make sure the bolts or studs that attach the blades are tight.
This should also be equipped with a stump jumper, to lift the bottom of the gearbox/blade assembly clear of stumps or other obstacles. , Make sure the shaft locking mechanism engages, to prevent the shaft from vibrating loose while operating.
Check any shaft guards to be sure they are in safe operating condition. , Make sure your engine is not at idle because it will load the engine to much if you engage the PTO.
A little above low idle is best because it will not load the engine as bad.
Let out the clutch slowly until you feel the PTO start to engage.
The blades on the mower are hinged so you want to engage them slowly until centrifugal force slings them out then you can go ahead and bring your engine up to operating speed.
The mower blades should begin turning.
If there is any problem, disengage the PTO immediately. , For light weeds/grass, you may choose to operate in a gear that gives a ground speed of about 7Â mph (11Â km/h).
In the tractor in the photos, this would be 6th gear.
For heavy weeds, brush, or mowing crops after they are finished, a 4Â mph (6.4Â km/h) speed may give better results, so 5th gear may be used.
Also your power to your PTO will change with different gears so be mindful of that when choosing a gear. , Keep the wheel aligned with the direction you want to travel.
This may seem obvious, but in a large field with no rows or other features to guide a tractor operator, the machine may drift.
It sometimes helps if you are operating in a large field to pick a reference point across the field and keep the tractor lined up with whatever it may be. , A circular mowing path is usually more efficient. , Black smoke or a reduction of engine speed may mean you are overloading the engine.
You should not exceed the limits of your tractor when mowing, doing so can cause premature failure of drive train components.
If the tractor is lagging, losing power, or otherwise struggling with its load, either reduce the mower cut by raising the mower, raise the RPM of the engine if you are not already operating at full power, or drop to a lower gear to reduce the tractor speed.
A reduction in tractor speed will not only give the tractor more time to cut it will also provide more power to the PTO. , Stumps, holes, or large rocks can ruin a mower, and hitting a large hole with a tractor wheel can cause the driver to be thrown from the machine.
Each pass gives you an opportunity to look at the next cutting path as you pass.
If you do happen to hit a rock or a stump always shut down to check for damage before continuing—even if everything seems to be OK.
Little problems can turn into big issues quick. , Watch carefully, the engine temperature, oil pressure, and fuel gauges to ensure these stay in appropriate ranges.
Mowing large vegetation can put a considerable strain on a tractor cooling system, and debris falling from the vegetation can obstruct the radiator screen.
If the tractor starts running hot, more than likely, the radiator fins are clogged with debris.
The best way to remedy this situation is to use an air blower (if possible) and blow in the opposite direction of the air flow of the radiator fan to clean out the fins. , Even when properly adjusted for level ground, occasionally, a skid plate will dig into the soil when crossing a small contour, and earth and vegetation can accumulate at the corner of the mower deck.
These accumulations can quickly become huge masses and soon cause cutting problems.
Glancing back at the mower deck frequently will allow you to monitor and maintain the deck height and adjust the height when needed. , Not only can these obstructions break off a muffler or bend the sheet metal of your tractor, you can actually be swept off the machine.
Slow down when approaching any obstacle, and be prepared to stop. , Because people refer to rough cut mowers as Brush Hogs, they often assume the mower is capable of cutting bushes.
To some extent, this is true, but if you are inexperienced or doubt the tractor/mower's ability to handle large, thick bushes, avoid them.
Also, when cutting thick brush, the mower is more likely to throw dangerous debris.
Always be aware of what is around you if you do decide to tackle some thick brush. , When mowing under trees, it is common to find yourself wrapped up in spider webs, and not too unusual to find a spider stuck on your hat or glasses.
Ground bees (yellow jackets), wasps, and hornets are other hazards, and tractors are not the fastest escape vehicles for avoiding these painful pests when you encounter them.
In the extreme event you have to leave your tractor suddenly to avoid these pests, make sure you pause long enough to pull the kill switch or at least take it out of gear.
DO NOT LEAVE THE OPERATOR SEAT WHILE PTO IS IN GEAR. , Nothing beats the smell of fresh mowed grass under a clear blue sky.
Remember, some jobs are hustle and bustle, but that is not the tradition of agricultural life.
Take your time and at the end of the day be proud of all you have accomplished. -
Step 3: Adjust the sway chains/implement stabilizers so the mower cannot swing too far when turning corners.
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Step 4: Check the condition of your mower.
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Step 5: With the tractor "Off"
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Step 6: Hook up your mower and connect the PTO shaft.
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Step 7: Crank your tractor
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Step 8: engage the clutch fully (tractors usually have two stage clutches
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Step 9: so the clutch must be fully depressed to disengage the PTO)
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Step 10: and engage your PTO.
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Step 11: Use the three point hitch hydraulics to raise the mower to the desired cutting height
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Step 12: and select a gear appropriate for the cutting job you are doing.
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Step 13: Begin mowing.
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Step 14: Select your mowing route in the field or area you are mowing
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Step 15: and follow it either in return row or circular configuration
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Step 16: which ever is more efficient.
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Step 17: Listen to the tractor engine
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Step 18: and observe the exhaust
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Step 19: if your tractor has a diesel engine.
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Step 20: Watch for obstacles in the vegetation you are mowing.
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Step 21: Keep an eye on the gauges.
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Step 22: Keep the mower deck ground rails from plowing
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Step 23: or digging into the earth.
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Step 24: Use care if mowing under tree limbs or other overhead hazards.
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Step 25: Understand the limits of what your mower can cut effectively.
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Step 26: Keep an eye out for insects.
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Step 27: Enjoy your mowing job.
Detailed Guide
Since rough mowing may require going into brushy or bushy areas, you may want to modify the tractor to protect the front end components, such as the steering linkages and radiator screen to protect these from limbs or other hazards.
The manufacturers of rough cut mowers build and rate them according to two criteria:
Gearbox horsepower (torque).
A 50 horsepower tractor will likely damage a 25 horsepower mower gearbox under heavy load, and a 30 horsepower tractor cannot operate a large mower equipped with a 90 horsepower gearbox.
A good fit is no more than 10% difference in tractor/mower horsepower rating.
Cutting width.
Smaller tractors, obviously, will handle only smaller sized mowers.
For a typical 25 horsepower tractor, a 5 foot (1.5Â m) mower is recommended, where a 40 horsepower tractor should be able to handle a 6 foot (1.8Â m) mower, and larger tractors can handle proportionally larger mowers. , A mower deck can swing far enough, in certain cornering situations, to hit the rear tires of the tractor, possibly ruining it.
If using a flex-wing cutter, be sure to adjust the safety chains on the draw bar so there is enough slack for turning. , Keeping the mower in good condition will decrease the chance of a breakdown while you are mowing.
Some things that may need attention:
Gearbox lubrication.
Typical gear boxes have two pipe thread type plugs built into the housing.
One, at the top, is the fill hole, another, on the side, is the fill level.
Check oil level in the gear box and if needed remove both plugs, and pour oil in the upper hole until it begins to trickle out the lower one, then replace both plugs.
Ground wheel condition.
The ground wheel supports the rear of the mower to keep it from digging into the dirt if the mower is operated in unlevel conditions.
It should swivel easily so the mower follows when the tractor turns, and the wheel should turn freely on its axle.
Lubricate the grease fittings on this assembly, and make sure no debris is tangled around the wheel hub or axle.
Also check your tail wheel chains (if your cutter has them) to be sure they are in good condition.
Power take-off connector or "PTO".
Usually, this is a splined connection with a pin or spring-loaded locking mechanism to hold it in place.
There are several sizes of PTO shafts; if you have the correct tractor/mower combination, you will be able to slide the mower drive shaft onto the tractor PTO shaft without trouble.
Lubricating the splines on this assembly makes it easier to make the connection when changing out equipment.
Universal joints.
These are similar to the U-joints on a car or truck, and allow the drive shaft to travel without bending while it is rotating.
Make sure the universal joints are tight and grease them if they have grease fittings.
Also make sure the PTO shaft guards are in place and safety chains are attached to both the tractor and the implement when operating.
This will prevent vegetation from getting wrapped around them while cutting in dense areas.
Top-link connection.
The top link on a rough cut mower is not a fixed length, as are most other farm implements.
This is because the ground wheel raises and lowers the rear of the mower to follow the ground contour, and the top link would bind if it were a fixed length.
Make sure the top link adapter on your mower allows several inches of free travel, while still allowing the mower to be lifted clear of the ground while turning.
If, while cutting, you notice the mower still has to much "free travel" take up more slack on the top link.
Mower blades.
A 5 foot (1.5Â m) rough cut mower is usually equipped with two 24 inch (61.0Â cm) blades, attached to the blade mounting plate under the mower deck.
These should be balanced and sharp for good, clean, and vibration free service.
If blades are worn bad on the edges it is best to just replace them with a new set instead of trying to sharpen a badly worn set and getting them balanced.
The blade mounting plate.
Make sure the bolts or studs that attach the blades are tight.
This should also be equipped with a stump jumper, to lift the bottom of the gearbox/blade assembly clear of stumps or other obstacles. , Make sure the shaft locking mechanism engages, to prevent the shaft from vibrating loose while operating.
Check any shaft guards to be sure they are in safe operating condition. , Make sure your engine is not at idle because it will load the engine to much if you engage the PTO.
A little above low idle is best because it will not load the engine as bad.
Let out the clutch slowly until you feel the PTO start to engage.
The blades on the mower are hinged so you want to engage them slowly until centrifugal force slings them out then you can go ahead and bring your engine up to operating speed.
The mower blades should begin turning.
If there is any problem, disengage the PTO immediately. , For light weeds/grass, you may choose to operate in a gear that gives a ground speed of about 7Â mph (11Â km/h).
In the tractor in the photos, this would be 6th gear.
For heavy weeds, brush, or mowing crops after they are finished, a 4Â mph (6.4Â km/h) speed may give better results, so 5th gear may be used.
Also your power to your PTO will change with different gears so be mindful of that when choosing a gear. , Keep the wheel aligned with the direction you want to travel.
This may seem obvious, but in a large field with no rows or other features to guide a tractor operator, the machine may drift.
It sometimes helps if you are operating in a large field to pick a reference point across the field and keep the tractor lined up with whatever it may be. , A circular mowing path is usually more efficient. , Black smoke or a reduction of engine speed may mean you are overloading the engine.
You should not exceed the limits of your tractor when mowing, doing so can cause premature failure of drive train components.
If the tractor is lagging, losing power, or otherwise struggling with its load, either reduce the mower cut by raising the mower, raise the RPM of the engine if you are not already operating at full power, or drop to a lower gear to reduce the tractor speed.
A reduction in tractor speed will not only give the tractor more time to cut it will also provide more power to the PTO. , Stumps, holes, or large rocks can ruin a mower, and hitting a large hole with a tractor wheel can cause the driver to be thrown from the machine.
Each pass gives you an opportunity to look at the next cutting path as you pass.
If you do happen to hit a rock or a stump always shut down to check for damage before continuing—even if everything seems to be OK.
Little problems can turn into big issues quick. , Watch carefully, the engine temperature, oil pressure, and fuel gauges to ensure these stay in appropriate ranges.
Mowing large vegetation can put a considerable strain on a tractor cooling system, and debris falling from the vegetation can obstruct the radiator screen.
If the tractor starts running hot, more than likely, the radiator fins are clogged with debris.
The best way to remedy this situation is to use an air blower (if possible) and blow in the opposite direction of the air flow of the radiator fan to clean out the fins. , Even when properly adjusted for level ground, occasionally, a skid plate will dig into the soil when crossing a small contour, and earth and vegetation can accumulate at the corner of the mower deck.
These accumulations can quickly become huge masses and soon cause cutting problems.
Glancing back at the mower deck frequently will allow you to monitor and maintain the deck height and adjust the height when needed. , Not only can these obstructions break off a muffler or bend the sheet metal of your tractor, you can actually be swept off the machine.
Slow down when approaching any obstacle, and be prepared to stop. , Because people refer to rough cut mowers as Brush Hogs, they often assume the mower is capable of cutting bushes.
To some extent, this is true, but if you are inexperienced or doubt the tractor/mower's ability to handle large, thick bushes, avoid them.
Also, when cutting thick brush, the mower is more likely to throw dangerous debris.
Always be aware of what is around you if you do decide to tackle some thick brush. , When mowing under trees, it is common to find yourself wrapped up in spider webs, and not too unusual to find a spider stuck on your hat or glasses.
Ground bees (yellow jackets), wasps, and hornets are other hazards, and tractors are not the fastest escape vehicles for avoiding these painful pests when you encounter them.
In the extreme event you have to leave your tractor suddenly to avoid these pests, make sure you pause long enough to pull the kill switch or at least take it out of gear.
DO NOT LEAVE THE OPERATOR SEAT WHILE PTO IS IN GEAR. , Nothing beats the smell of fresh mowed grass under a clear blue sky.
Remember, some jobs are hustle and bustle, but that is not the tradition of agricultural life.
Take your time and at the end of the day be proud of all you have accomplished.
About the Author
Judy Jimenez
Brings years of experience writing about crafts and related subjects.
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