How to Control a Canal Boat (Narrowboat)
Check that your equipment is sufficient for your journey., Make sure you have cast off all wires: electrical connections, phone connections, TV aerial connections. , On the single lever control, disengage the gearbox., When the engine is running...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Check that your equipment is sufficient for your journey.
If you are going to be going through any locks then you will need a windlass, as well as anti-vandal and/or waterway authority keys to use some locks depending on the area.
If you are going onto a river, you will need an anchor and sufficient rope and chain for its use. -
Step 2: Make sure you have cast off all wires: electrical connections
, Open the throttle slightly, close the pressure relief valve (diesel engines), turn the key to on and check for voltage, ignition lights etc, turn the key to preheat for around half a minute (diesel engines), turn the key further (against the spring) to run the starter.
If the engine does not start (or if you are uncertain about the procedure) then consult your boat manual.
When the engine starts, leave it a few seconds, then return the throttle to idle (tickover). , In still water, ask the crew to untie the stern rope first (stern = back) then the bow rope (bow = front).
The reason you cast off the bow rope last is that with the stern untied, you can still control it with the tiller and engine.
If there is a current, untie the downstream end first (the current will keep the boat safely against the bank, until the other end is untied).
If there is no wind or current, and the rest of the crew are asleep or doing the washing up: tie a centre rope, untie everything else, untie the centre rope, and step back on board at the tiller.
A centre rope gives you full control of the boat (ie it can't drift out front or stern) provided there is no wind or current). , Remaining in neutral, push the stern away from the bank.
Many canals are shallower at the sides, and debris accumulates between your boat and the bank: so to keep rubbish and rocks away from your propeller, it is best to have the prop in deeper water before it starts turning.
Also, the boat pivots near the middle, so unless the stern is clear of the bank, you will not be able to swing the bow out (and therefore the stern in) as you move forwards. ,, The tiller controls the position of the back of the boat, so this moves stern towards the bank, and the bow pivots out slightly towards the centre of the canal.
Without speeding up, use small tiller corrections (tiller left, bow right) to get the whole boat to the centre of the canal and pointing straight forward. (At these low revs, the tiller is slow to respond, so "small adjustments, wait, correct" all slowly and gently). , Stand dead centre, and use the front of the boat like a sight along the canal Make a small correction as soon as the front of the boat drifts off the centre of the canal, and hold it until the boat responds. (ie if the front drifts right, move the tiller a small distance right until you feel some resistance, then hold it there).
As soon as the boat starts to swing back, centre the tiller.
The bow will continue back for a short while.
Hopefully, by the time it stops, it will be pointing straight down the canal (if not, a smaller correction may be needed). (Do not delay the centering of the tiller until the bow is pointing in the right direction, by the the time the bow stops swinging, it will be pointing the OTHER wrong way.) To move the tiller too far, or to delay re-centering it, results in a series of wider and wider curves which only stop when you hit the bank. , Don't go beyond the speed at which you can correct swings or go round corners comfortably, or stop if a boat comes round the bend ahead.
Don't go beyond the speed for a comfortable leisurely cruise.
Above all, do not create a breaking wash (erodes the canal bank, and fills the canal with silt) and do not break the speed limit for where you are (4Â mph (6.4Â km/h) on British canals). ,, There is no need to move out of the way at great speed, and no need to crash into the trees in an attempt to get away.
All that is required is to move positively (so the other boat can see that you are moving the right way) and to ensure that as you pass, you keep a foot or two of water between you.
The boat nearest the towpath should keep close to it (unless the bottom is obviously shallow there) to allow the other boat to keep off the other bank (and away from overhanging trees).
Do not slow down too much, or steering will become less positive
- and do not get too close, or the boats can get sucked together., Aim the towards the bank at about 30 degrees.
When 5 or 6 feet (1.5 or
1.8Â m) away from the bank, gently steer away, so that the boat continues approaching the bank but is gradually straightening up. , With luck (and then with practice!) the boat comes to a complete stop perfectly parallel to the bank with only a few inches between the boat and the bank.
Tie up securely. -
Step 3: phone connections
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Step 4: TV aerial connections.
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Step 5: On the single lever control
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Step 6: disengage the gearbox.
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Step 7: When the engine is running smoothly
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Step 8: look around for dangers and untie the boat.
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Step 9: With the single lever control in the neutral position
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Step 10: re-engage the gearbox.
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Step 11: With the stern well clear of the bank
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Step 12: slowly and calmly move the throttle to its lowest forward setting (or just move the throttle a touch forward until you feel the gearbox engage
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Step 13: then move back to tickover).
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Step 14: Move the tiller slightly towards the bank.
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Step 15: At low speed (perhaps very first forward "notch")
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Step 16: get used to using frequent small corrections (quickly "killed") maintain the boat in a forward straight line.
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Step 17: Once you think you have the hang of steering at the slowest speed
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Step 18: then allow yourself a little more power.
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Step 19: Keep to the centre of the canal
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Step 20: except to avoid moored boats
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Step 21: or to get to a position to see around a bend or obstacle
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Step 22: or to pass a boat.
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Step 23: If a boat comes the other way
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Step 24: both boats should move gently about four feet to the right to keep the other boat on their left.
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Step 25: To moor
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Step 26: first slow down to a constant slow speed.
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Step 27: When nearly parallel
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Step 28: gently engage reverse gear.
Detailed Guide
If you are going to be going through any locks then you will need a windlass, as well as anti-vandal and/or waterway authority keys to use some locks depending on the area.
If you are going onto a river, you will need an anchor and sufficient rope and chain for its use.
, Open the throttle slightly, close the pressure relief valve (diesel engines), turn the key to on and check for voltage, ignition lights etc, turn the key to preheat for around half a minute (diesel engines), turn the key further (against the spring) to run the starter.
If the engine does not start (or if you are uncertain about the procedure) then consult your boat manual.
When the engine starts, leave it a few seconds, then return the throttle to idle (tickover). , In still water, ask the crew to untie the stern rope first (stern = back) then the bow rope (bow = front).
The reason you cast off the bow rope last is that with the stern untied, you can still control it with the tiller and engine.
If there is a current, untie the downstream end first (the current will keep the boat safely against the bank, until the other end is untied).
If there is no wind or current, and the rest of the crew are asleep or doing the washing up: tie a centre rope, untie everything else, untie the centre rope, and step back on board at the tiller.
A centre rope gives you full control of the boat (ie it can't drift out front or stern) provided there is no wind or current). , Remaining in neutral, push the stern away from the bank.
Many canals are shallower at the sides, and debris accumulates between your boat and the bank: so to keep rubbish and rocks away from your propeller, it is best to have the prop in deeper water before it starts turning.
Also, the boat pivots near the middle, so unless the stern is clear of the bank, you will not be able to swing the bow out (and therefore the stern in) as you move forwards. ,, The tiller controls the position of the back of the boat, so this moves stern towards the bank, and the bow pivots out slightly towards the centre of the canal.
Without speeding up, use small tiller corrections (tiller left, bow right) to get the whole boat to the centre of the canal and pointing straight forward. (At these low revs, the tiller is slow to respond, so "small adjustments, wait, correct" all slowly and gently). , Stand dead centre, and use the front of the boat like a sight along the canal Make a small correction as soon as the front of the boat drifts off the centre of the canal, and hold it until the boat responds. (ie if the front drifts right, move the tiller a small distance right until you feel some resistance, then hold it there).
As soon as the boat starts to swing back, centre the tiller.
The bow will continue back for a short while.
Hopefully, by the time it stops, it will be pointing straight down the canal (if not, a smaller correction may be needed). (Do not delay the centering of the tiller until the bow is pointing in the right direction, by the the time the bow stops swinging, it will be pointing the OTHER wrong way.) To move the tiller too far, or to delay re-centering it, results in a series of wider and wider curves which only stop when you hit the bank. , Don't go beyond the speed at which you can correct swings or go round corners comfortably, or stop if a boat comes round the bend ahead.
Don't go beyond the speed for a comfortable leisurely cruise.
Above all, do not create a breaking wash (erodes the canal bank, and fills the canal with silt) and do not break the speed limit for where you are (4Â mph (6.4Â km/h) on British canals). ,, There is no need to move out of the way at great speed, and no need to crash into the trees in an attempt to get away.
All that is required is to move positively (so the other boat can see that you are moving the right way) and to ensure that as you pass, you keep a foot or two of water between you.
The boat nearest the towpath should keep close to it (unless the bottom is obviously shallow there) to allow the other boat to keep off the other bank (and away from overhanging trees).
Do not slow down too much, or steering will become less positive
- and do not get too close, or the boats can get sucked together., Aim the towards the bank at about 30 degrees.
When 5 or 6 feet (1.5 or
1.8Â m) away from the bank, gently steer away, so that the boat continues approaching the bank but is gradually straightening up. , With luck (and then with practice!) the boat comes to a complete stop perfectly parallel to the bank with only a few inches between the boat and the bank.
Tie up securely.
About the Author
Anna Collins
Anna Collins specializes in lifestyle and practical guides and has been creating helpful content for over 3 years. Anna is committed to helping readers learn new skills and improve their lives.
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