How to Make a Remote Control Toy Boat
Obtain your hull, motor, servo, rechargeable battery with charger, and radio transmitter/receiver., Glue (not cement—that's for building houses) the motor in the bottom rear of the boat (will be under the batteries) and set up the prop. , Waterproof...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Obtain your hull
These are the most expensive parts of the whole build. -
Step 2: rechargeable battery with charger
, Even if you sail it on a mill pond somehow water will try to get inside.
There will probably be one or more openings in the deck which you will need to get into the innards for adjustment and things like battery charging.
Build a wall (coaming is the technical term) around the opening about 1 inch (2.5 cm) high, making sure it is well sealed (using glue) to the deck.
Then fit a hatch cover that is a good fit over the coaming.
The way to do this is first cut some thin card eg from an old Xmas card and tape it round the outside of the coaming.
Cut walls for the hatch and glue them to each other at the corners while fitting around the coaming.
Fit a top onto the walls.
When the glue is dry remove the hatch and carefully release the card if that got stuck too.
That way you can get a tight fit with just a gap equal to the thin card. ,, You can buy 'rudder assemblies' which have a flat plate—the rudder—attached to a rod—the post—that passes through a tube and on the other end has a little arm.
Take it apart and remember exactly how it was because you are going to need to put it back together later.
At the back end of the boat, on the center line, a little behind the propeller drill a hole for the rudder tube.
Use a drill that is just a little bigger than the tube for example if your tube is a modern one it might be 6mm, so you could drill a 1/4 in hole which would be a bit bigger, but if you have lots of tools you might have a
6.1 mm drill which would be better. ,, Preferably not rusty and rather a lot less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. ,, Make certain the servo rod does not rub on it. ,, -
Step 3: and radio transmitter/receiver.
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Step 4: Glue (not cement—that's for building houses) the motor in the bottom rear of the boat (will be under the batteries) and set up the prop.
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Step 5: Waterproof the openings.
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Step 6: Glue a servo to the hull near the front of the boat.
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Step 7: Fitting a rudder.
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Step 8: Put a servo horn on the top of it.
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Step 9: Hold it down by a screw.
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Step 10: Connect a servo rod with "Z bends" at each end and an "adjustment angle" in the middle of the rod.
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Step 11: Glue in the battery pack between the rudder and servo.
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Step 12: Glue in the receiver in the bow (front) of the boat.
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Step 13: Waterproof everything with DAP kitchen and bath silicone and you are done!
Detailed Guide
These are the most expensive parts of the whole build.
, Even if you sail it on a mill pond somehow water will try to get inside.
There will probably be one or more openings in the deck which you will need to get into the innards for adjustment and things like battery charging.
Build a wall (coaming is the technical term) around the opening about 1 inch (2.5 cm) high, making sure it is well sealed (using glue) to the deck.
Then fit a hatch cover that is a good fit over the coaming.
The way to do this is first cut some thin card eg from an old Xmas card and tape it round the outside of the coaming.
Cut walls for the hatch and glue them to each other at the corners while fitting around the coaming.
Fit a top onto the walls.
When the glue is dry remove the hatch and carefully release the card if that got stuck too.
That way you can get a tight fit with just a gap equal to the thin card. ,, You can buy 'rudder assemblies' which have a flat plate—the rudder—attached to a rod—the post—that passes through a tube and on the other end has a little arm.
Take it apart and remember exactly how it was because you are going to need to put it back together later.
At the back end of the boat, on the center line, a little behind the propeller drill a hole for the rudder tube.
Use a drill that is just a little bigger than the tube for example if your tube is a modern one it might be 6mm, so you could drill a 1/4 in hole which would be a bit bigger, but if you have lots of tools you might have a
6.1 mm drill which would be better. ,, Preferably not rusty and rather a lot less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. ,, Make certain the servo rod does not rub on it. ,,
About the Author
Amanda Jones
Specializes in breaking down complex crafts topics into simple steps.
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