How to Take Care of a Pastel Leopard Gecko
Research., Buy a leopard gecko that is healthy., Learn their Behavior., Create an environment for them., Get the right Substrate., Know what kind of heating it will need., If a daylight lamp is needed, use a broad- or full-spectrum light that...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Research.
You can never know too much, so do a lot of research before you buy one. -
Step 2: Buy a leopard gecko that is healthy.
A healthy leopard gecko should be alert; have clear eyes, nose, and mouth; have all toes; and finally have a nice plump tail that is wider than the width between its shoulders. , Leos are very funny to watch, but they have important behavioral characteristics.
Leos can be housed together, but, when caging together, never have more than one male in a cage.
Numerous females can be housed together or with a male, but must be observed for fighting or competition for food.
When housing together, make sure to have enough space for the animals: every animal should have a minimum 10 gallons (37.9 L) of space (preferably a single gecko should have a 20 gallon space). , The housing consists of the entire environment you will set up for your leo.
Aquariums should be long, not tall.
Each leopard gecko should have a 20 gallon (75.7 L) long aquarium, though a leopard gecko can live in a 10 gallon (37.9 L) tank.
If you would like to make a custom terrarium, several companies are available. , There are numerous substrates you could use.
One that has become popular is reptile carpet or slate tile as opposed to sand, which may cause impaction (sand getting stuck in the intestines).
Other substrates that are cheap and effective include paper towels or non-glossy newspaper.
It doesn't look as appealing, but your geckos will not mind.
Sand is another option that may look nice, but it is also the substrate that carries the most risk to the gecko's health.
Sand and slate tile are the easiest to clean and reuse, while newspaper and paper towels may be used once and replaced. , Reptiles need external heating to regulate their body temperatures.
Leopard geckos need a temperature gradient in their tank from about 75 °F (24 °C) on the cool side to 95 °F (35 °C) on the warm side so they can move where they need to to get the right temperature.
There are two ways to heat the tank to make the gradient.
The preferred method is through a heating mat (called an undertank heater or UTH) adhered to the bottom of one side of the tank.
This is the best way to heat the tank, because geckos require belly heat to digest their prey.
Make sure the mat is all the way to one side of the tank in order to create a gradient of heating so that the leopard gecko can regulate their internal temperature.
Another way to heat the terrarium is to use a ceramic heat emitter or a lamp with a heat bulb, but it is harder to regulate than an undertank heater.
A thermometer should be used to ensure proper temperatures are maintained. , Day lamps are not required but are recommended for the proper synthesis of vitamins D and A.
Night lights should be red, not blue or black, as these can hurt the gecko's eyes.
Night lights are not necessary unless the owner wants to see the gecko after dark. , If desired (or the gecko won't drink from the dish), the tank can be misted with fresh water so the gecko can drink the drops. , A Gatorade cap for is the perfect size for this.
Food should also be dusted twice a week with calcium with D3 and once a week with a reptile vitamin supplement.
This can be done by dropping feeders into a sandwich bag containing the supplement and shaking them to lightly dust them with the vitamin or calcium before feeding them to the gecko. , Leopard geckos are able to eat several different kinds of insects.
The most common foods are crickets and meal worms.
Others include dubia roaches, wolf spiders, silkworms, and horn worms .
Feeders should be fed, or gut-loaded, before giving to the gecko.
This can be done by feeding them fresh potato, vegetables, or a commercial insect diet for 12 hours before feeding them to the gecko.
Geckos should be fed a variety of these insects to keep them healthy.
Treats.
Worms such as phoenix worms, butter worms, and wax worms should be fed only occasionally because they can cause nutritional problems if fed exclusively.
Feeding.
Crickets should have their rear legs removed before being fed to small or slow geckos.
Mealworms can be kept in a dish in the terrarium but must be monitored to make sure the gecko is eating them.
No other insects should be left with the gecko longer than an hour, as they may cause injury via biting.
If the gecko is aggressive or has problems catching feeders (or if the owner just wants to hand-feed them), forceps can be used to grip insects in the middle before presenting them to the gecko.
If needed, they can be wiggled in front of the gecko to catch its attention. , Since leos are nocturnal, they require dark hides in order to feel safe during the daylight hours while they sleep.
While they may be up often during the day, they still enjoy the safety and security that two or more hides offer.
Place one in the warm area and one in the cool area.
A humid hide should be used as well.
Hides may be made out of cardboard, wood, plastic Tupperware or butter tubs with holes cut in them, or any other gecko-safe material.
Humid hide.
Leos will also need a humid hide placed on the warm side.
This will help aid in shedding.
Humid hides should be made of plastic prepared like regular hides, but should contain moistened materials inside such as wet paper towels or moss for use with pets (which can be found at a pet store). -
Step 3: Learn their Behavior.
-
Step 4: Create an environment for them.
-
Step 5: Get the right Substrate.
-
Step 6: Know what kind of heating it will need.
-
Step 7: If a daylight lamp is needed
-
Step 8: use a broad- or full-spectrum light that includes UVB and UVA lighting.
-
Step 9: Have a shallow water dish with water available in it at all times.
-
Step 10: Make sure to have a dish with calcium with no D3 in the tank at all times.
-
Step 11: Get them a variety of food.
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Step 12: Make them places to hide.
Detailed Guide
You can never know too much, so do a lot of research before you buy one.
A healthy leopard gecko should be alert; have clear eyes, nose, and mouth; have all toes; and finally have a nice plump tail that is wider than the width between its shoulders. , Leos are very funny to watch, but they have important behavioral characteristics.
Leos can be housed together, but, when caging together, never have more than one male in a cage.
Numerous females can be housed together or with a male, but must be observed for fighting or competition for food.
When housing together, make sure to have enough space for the animals: every animal should have a minimum 10 gallons (37.9 L) of space (preferably a single gecko should have a 20 gallon space). , The housing consists of the entire environment you will set up for your leo.
Aquariums should be long, not tall.
Each leopard gecko should have a 20 gallon (75.7 L) long aquarium, though a leopard gecko can live in a 10 gallon (37.9 L) tank.
If you would like to make a custom terrarium, several companies are available. , There are numerous substrates you could use.
One that has become popular is reptile carpet or slate tile as opposed to sand, which may cause impaction (sand getting stuck in the intestines).
Other substrates that are cheap and effective include paper towels or non-glossy newspaper.
It doesn't look as appealing, but your geckos will not mind.
Sand is another option that may look nice, but it is also the substrate that carries the most risk to the gecko's health.
Sand and slate tile are the easiest to clean and reuse, while newspaper and paper towels may be used once and replaced. , Reptiles need external heating to regulate their body temperatures.
Leopard geckos need a temperature gradient in their tank from about 75 °F (24 °C) on the cool side to 95 °F (35 °C) on the warm side so they can move where they need to to get the right temperature.
There are two ways to heat the tank to make the gradient.
The preferred method is through a heating mat (called an undertank heater or UTH) adhered to the bottom of one side of the tank.
This is the best way to heat the tank, because geckos require belly heat to digest their prey.
Make sure the mat is all the way to one side of the tank in order to create a gradient of heating so that the leopard gecko can regulate their internal temperature.
Another way to heat the terrarium is to use a ceramic heat emitter or a lamp with a heat bulb, but it is harder to regulate than an undertank heater.
A thermometer should be used to ensure proper temperatures are maintained. , Day lamps are not required but are recommended for the proper synthesis of vitamins D and A.
Night lights should be red, not blue or black, as these can hurt the gecko's eyes.
Night lights are not necessary unless the owner wants to see the gecko after dark. , If desired (or the gecko won't drink from the dish), the tank can be misted with fresh water so the gecko can drink the drops. , A Gatorade cap for is the perfect size for this.
Food should also be dusted twice a week with calcium with D3 and once a week with a reptile vitamin supplement.
This can be done by dropping feeders into a sandwich bag containing the supplement and shaking them to lightly dust them with the vitamin or calcium before feeding them to the gecko. , Leopard geckos are able to eat several different kinds of insects.
The most common foods are crickets and meal worms.
Others include dubia roaches, wolf spiders, silkworms, and horn worms .
Feeders should be fed, or gut-loaded, before giving to the gecko.
This can be done by feeding them fresh potato, vegetables, or a commercial insect diet for 12 hours before feeding them to the gecko.
Geckos should be fed a variety of these insects to keep them healthy.
Treats.
Worms such as phoenix worms, butter worms, and wax worms should be fed only occasionally because they can cause nutritional problems if fed exclusively.
Feeding.
Crickets should have their rear legs removed before being fed to small or slow geckos.
Mealworms can be kept in a dish in the terrarium but must be monitored to make sure the gecko is eating them.
No other insects should be left with the gecko longer than an hour, as they may cause injury via biting.
If the gecko is aggressive or has problems catching feeders (or if the owner just wants to hand-feed them), forceps can be used to grip insects in the middle before presenting them to the gecko.
If needed, they can be wiggled in front of the gecko to catch its attention. , Since leos are nocturnal, they require dark hides in order to feel safe during the daylight hours while they sleep.
While they may be up often during the day, they still enjoy the safety and security that two or more hides offer.
Place one in the warm area and one in the cool area.
A humid hide should be used as well.
Hides may be made out of cardboard, wood, plastic Tupperware or butter tubs with holes cut in them, or any other gecko-safe material.
Humid hide.
Leos will also need a humid hide placed on the warm side.
This will help aid in shedding.
Humid hides should be made of plastic prepared like regular hides, but should contain moistened materials inside such as wet paper towels or moss for use with pets (which can be found at a pet store).
About the Author
Jean Freeman
Brings years of experience writing about creative arts and related subjects.
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