How to Take a Photo With an SLR Camera
Choose the right film for the job., Use the right f-stop., Shutter speed is the other big variable., , Don't forget to focus!, Notice your results.
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Choose the right film for the job.
For Portraits (little motion) in a well-lit area, or in sunlight, ASA (or ISO) 100 is a good choice; but you wouldn't use that film for action shots or low-light situations.
Lower ASA numbers mean finer grain, which translates to better detail.
If you wanted to make a poster-sized blow-up, you'd want to use the lowest ASA number possible for the lighting/motion conditions.
For extreme motion, low light, or a combination of these conditions, ASA 400 offers decent grain at the higher shutter speeds necessary to stop motion (i.e., 1/250th of a second).
Extreme shutter speeds or very low little light can require an ASA 1600 film.
Be aware, however, that detail will suffer.
Every time you choose a film, you're making compromises, and you need to be aware of how your choice of film is going to affect your prints.
Taking photos of the same subject, in the same lighting conditions, using several different films may be the best way to learn how to make intelligent compromises. -
Step 2: Use the right f-stop.
The f-stop controls how far the shutter opens when you depress it.
A high f-stop will only open the shutter a small amount.
This means less light falls on the film as would if you used a lower f-stop (assuming the shutter speed (the amount of time the light strikes the film) is constant.
F-stop settings directly affect the depth of field.
Using a low F-stop setting will make anything not perfectly in focus in your viewfinder look even blurrier, while using a high f-stop will increase the depth of the subject that appears in focus.
The combination of f-stop setting and shutter speed will determine whether the total amount of light striking the film (the "exposure") is acceptable, or not.
Each time you change the f-stop, be sure to check the light meter (most SLR's have one built-in) to be sure the needle falls near the center.
Too low and your photo will be dark; too high, and it'll look "washed-out".
You may have to adjust the shutter speed to compensate for changing the f-stop.
Once again, it's all about successful compromises. , The shutter speed determines what length of time the shutter will remain open once you click the shutter.
A good rule of thumb is to shoot at 1/125th of a second or faster if you're holding the camera, because movement of the camera can show up at longer shutter speeds.
If you're very steady, you can hold the camera and shoot at 1/60th. 1/30th or slower absolutely requires a tripod.
For action shots, such as sports, you're going to want to "freeze" the action, so the shutter speed needs to be at least 1/250th of a second. 1/500th of a second would be even better, but the available light may not be enough to get a good exposure at that speed.
Once again, whenever you change your shutter speed, check the light meter; you may need to adjust the f-stop to compensate for the change in shutter speed.
Set the shutter speed to 1/125th when you're using flash.
The extra light from the flash is only available for a short time, so there's no advantage to using other shutter speeds.
For a slow shutter shot of flowing water use f 1/30,, There's a ring on the lens you'll need to rotate so that your subject comes into focus.
SLR's allow you to take out-of-focus photographs, too, which is cool, as long as it's not an accident. , If you take notes of what settings you used for each photo, then review how each photo turns out, you'll learn very quickly which compromises are good choices, and which aren't so good.
Try ASA (ISO) 100, 200, 400, and 1600 speed films.
Don't forget there's a setting for film speed you must make to select each choice.
Some cameras automatically detect the film speed, others have a thumbwheel you need to set to the correct number.
By all means, jot down all your information for each shot with these four rolls of film, then review your notes when you look at the prints. -
Step 3: Shutter speed is the other big variable.
-
Step 4: Don't forget to focus!
-
Step 5: Notice your results.
Detailed Guide
For Portraits (little motion) in a well-lit area, or in sunlight, ASA (or ISO) 100 is a good choice; but you wouldn't use that film for action shots or low-light situations.
Lower ASA numbers mean finer grain, which translates to better detail.
If you wanted to make a poster-sized blow-up, you'd want to use the lowest ASA number possible for the lighting/motion conditions.
For extreme motion, low light, or a combination of these conditions, ASA 400 offers decent grain at the higher shutter speeds necessary to stop motion (i.e., 1/250th of a second).
Extreme shutter speeds or very low little light can require an ASA 1600 film.
Be aware, however, that detail will suffer.
Every time you choose a film, you're making compromises, and you need to be aware of how your choice of film is going to affect your prints.
Taking photos of the same subject, in the same lighting conditions, using several different films may be the best way to learn how to make intelligent compromises.
The f-stop controls how far the shutter opens when you depress it.
A high f-stop will only open the shutter a small amount.
This means less light falls on the film as would if you used a lower f-stop (assuming the shutter speed (the amount of time the light strikes the film) is constant.
F-stop settings directly affect the depth of field.
Using a low F-stop setting will make anything not perfectly in focus in your viewfinder look even blurrier, while using a high f-stop will increase the depth of the subject that appears in focus.
The combination of f-stop setting and shutter speed will determine whether the total amount of light striking the film (the "exposure") is acceptable, or not.
Each time you change the f-stop, be sure to check the light meter (most SLR's have one built-in) to be sure the needle falls near the center.
Too low and your photo will be dark; too high, and it'll look "washed-out".
You may have to adjust the shutter speed to compensate for changing the f-stop.
Once again, it's all about successful compromises. , The shutter speed determines what length of time the shutter will remain open once you click the shutter.
A good rule of thumb is to shoot at 1/125th of a second or faster if you're holding the camera, because movement of the camera can show up at longer shutter speeds.
If you're very steady, you can hold the camera and shoot at 1/60th. 1/30th or slower absolutely requires a tripod.
For action shots, such as sports, you're going to want to "freeze" the action, so the shutter speed needs to be at least 1/250th of a second. 1/500th of a second would be even better, but the available light may not be enough to get a good exposure at that speed.
Once again, whenever you change your shutter speed, check the light meter; you may need to adjust the f-stop to compensate for the change in shutter speed.
Set the shutter speed to 1/125th when you're using flash.
The extra light from the flash is only available for a short time, so there's no advantage to using other shutter speeds.
For a slow shutter shot of flowing water use f 1/30,, There's a ring on the lens you'll need to rotate so that your subject comes into focus.
SLR's allow you to take out-of-focus photographs, too, which is cool, as long as it's not an accident. , If you take notes of what settings you used for each photo, then review how each photo turns out, you'll learn very quickly which compromises are good choices, and which aren't so good.
Try ASA (ISO) 100, 200, 400, and 1600 speed films.
Don't forget there's a setting for film speed you must make to select each choice.
Some cameras automatically detect the film speed, others have a thumbwheel you need to set to the correct number.
By all means, jot down all your information for each shot with these four rolls of film, then review your notes when you look at the prints.
About the Author
Ashley Phillips
A seasoned expert in lifestyle and practical guides, Ashley Phillips combines 4 years of experience with a passion for teaching. Ashley's guides are known for their clarity and practical value.
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