How to Take Apart a Track Bicycle

Step-by-Step Guide

1. 1

   Step 1: Using the pedal wrench

   This usually requires an allen wrench, but may vary depending on your crank brand and type.
   
   Once this is removed, there will be exposed threads inside the crank arm, with the bottom bracket spindle visible inside. ,, Make sure to screw this tool all the way in, as a great deal of pressure will be exerted on the threads when the cranks are removed. , With some force, the crank will be pulled off of the bottom bracket spindle. , They should come right out of the brackets once loose. , This is done by placing the chain link between the teeth of the chain breaker in such a way that it sits snugly. ,, The metal slug that connects the chain link pieces should remain in just one side of the chain link, removed only just enough to let the chain break free.
   
   Be careful not to remove the piece entirely! It is extremely difficult to reinsert that piece into a chain.
   
   A good way to do this is to alternate between screwing the tool arm into the chain and removing it, checking to see if the chain has broken yet (you won't be able to tell while the chain is in the tool).
   
   Go slowly. , Make sure to put it on a paper towel or other clean surface, where it will not collect dirt. ,,,, For caliper brakes, unscrew the small bolt on each side of the caliper brake that is attached to the brake pad itself.
   
   Once the brake pads are removed, unscrew the (smaller) screw on the pad/metal assembly itself, and slide the pad out of the metal piece it is attached to.
   
   Replace the pad by sliding a fresh one in.
   
   This is a worthwhile and inexpensive repair for your bike, since brake pads are cheap and are your best friend on the road. ,,,, (This is the part where the fork can fall out.) ,,, Place this ring on a clean paper towel or other surface.
   
   It is a good idea to clean and re-grease this with bearing grease.
   
   You can clean the ring by rubbing it with a paper towel in your hands, or with lube/cleaner.
   
   Be sure to re-grease this ring liberally; this is what rotates when you turn your handlebars to turn your bike.
   
   Ask your LBS (local bike store) for recommendations for bearing grease. , You will need to replace them exactly as they were. , Make sure not to lose the bearing ring on the fork that was resting in the lower cup of the frame. ,, The spindle itself is not very deep; as a result, this tool will easily come out when putting a lot of torque on the wrench to remove the bottom bracket.
   
   Be careful not to strip the splines or threads of the bottom bracket. , These parts are threaded differently, and will require some trial and error to figure out which side the lock ring is on.
   
   The lock ring will be threaded normally, and will most likely unscrew somewhat easily (relative to the other side). ,,,,,,,,, You may have a hard time doing this; get someone else to help or get creative about how to hold the chain onto the cog. ,,,,,,, Repeat the process for the other side. ,
2. 2

   Step 2: unscrew the pedal at the edge of the crank arm.

3. 3

   Step 3: Make sure to hold the pedal up as it gets loose

4. 4

   Step 4: otherwise it will fall onto the floor.

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   Step 5: Remove the dust cap and crank bolt from where the crank connects to the bottom bracket.

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   Step 6: Unscrew the crank puller slightly

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   Step 7: until the "pusher" part of the crank puller is recessed within the threaded part of the tool.

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   Step 8: Screw the tool into the crank arm

9. 9

   Step 9: gently at first.

10. 10

    Step 10: Wind the tool's handle clockwise

11. 11

    Step 11: screwing the "pusher" part of the tool back into the bolt that is now threaded into the crank.

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    Step 12: Remove the wheels by loosening the bolts attaching their hub bolts to the frame and fork (rear and front) brackets.

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    Step 13: Using the chain breaker tool

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    Step 14: pick a link and clip it into the tool.

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    Step 15: Using the tool like a vise

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    Step 16: aim the arm at the small metal piece connecting the chain halves.

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    Step 17: Screw in the tool until the metal piece is almost all the way out of the other side.

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    Step 18: Once the chain is separated

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    Step 19: you can remove it entirely from the bike.

20. 20

    Step 20: Unscrew the brake lever from the handlebars on the underside of the lever.

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    Step 21: Remove the brake lever from the handlebars

22. 22

    Step 22: making sure to catch any supporting pieces that may fall.

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    Step 23: Unscrew the bolt that is driven into the brake through the fork.

24. 24

    Step 24: Optional: This is a good opportunity to change your brake pads and clean your brakes.

25. 25

    Step 25: Remove the bolts from the stem that hold the handlebars tight.

26. 26

    Step 26: Catch the faceplate piece when the last bolt is removed.

27. 27

    Step 27: Unscrew the bolt on the cap on the stem.

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    Step 28: Unscrew the bolts on the shaft of the stem.

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    Step 29: Slide the stem up

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    Step 30: off of the fork.

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    Step 31: Slide the spacer rings

32. 32

    Step 32: if any

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    Step 33: off of the fork.

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    Step 34: Remove the bearing ring from the cup of the frame.

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    Step 35: Take careful note of the arrangement and direction of the bearing rings and supporting O-rings at this stage of the project.

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    Step 36: Slide the fork down

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    Step 37: out of the frame.

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    Step 38: Slide the bearing ring and O-ring up

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    Step 39: off the frame.

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    Step 40: Fit the bottom bracket tool over the bottom bracket spindle.

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    Step 41: The ISIS bottom bracket style has two parts

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    Step 42: the lock ring cup and the main bottom bracket.

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    Step 43: Pick a side and turn counter-clockwise until the cup is removed.

44. 44

    Step 44: Once the cup is removed off of the spindle

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    Step 45: turn the frame over and remove the bottom bracket itself

46. 46

    Step 46: by turning clockwise.

47. 47

    Step 47: Unscrew the bolt at the top of the frame

48. 48

    Step 48: where the seat post enters the frame.

49. 49

    Step 49: Wiggle and pull the seat and post out of the frame.

50. 50

    Step 50: Use the lock ring tool's one-toothed side (if it also has a three-toothed side) to fit into the lock ring.

51. 51

    Step 51: Turn the lock ring clockwise to remove it.

52. 52

    Step 52: Place the chain whip on the cog

53. 53

    Step 53: on the chain part of the tool that does not hang loose.

54. 54

    Step 54: Using your hand

55. 55

    Step 55: wrap the loose part of the chain whips chain around the cog and apply pressure to the cog directly opposite the other chain.

56. 56

    Step 56: Hold on tight and turn counter-clockwise to remove.

57. 57

    Step 57: Deflate the tube all of the way.

58. 58

    Step 58: Insert the tire lever under the "clinch" part of the tire

59. 59

    Step 59: between the rubber tire/tube and the metal rim.

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    Step 60: Push up

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    Step 61: lifting the lip of the of the tire off of the rim while simultaneously pushing down the length of the rim.

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    Step 62: Once a part of the lip of the tire is over the edge of the rim

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    Step 63: the rest will come easily.

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    Step 64: Run the tool down the length of the wheel

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    Step 65: removing the lip of the tire as you go.

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    Step 66: Pull the valve out of the hole in the rim

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    Step 67: and remove the tube from under the tire.

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    Step 68: At this point

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    Step 69: one lip of the tire will be removed from the rim.

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    Step 70: This is a good time to change your tube

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    Step 71: or add a rim strip underneath the tube

72. 72

    Step 72: if you get flat tires too frequently.

Detailed Guide

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