How to Train Your First Falcon
Don't attempt to try to train any bird unless you have been on a course and have access to a mentor., Before doing anything, look into the falconry laws in your area., Make sure you read every book you can, and buy all the equipment you need, before...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Don't attempt to try to train any bird unless you have been on a course and have access to a mentor.
Too many birds are lost and killed by inexperience.
You also must have a license to do falconry.
In the United States, you must have state and federal permits along with a hunting license.
DO NOT capture a falcon and fly it until you have obtained your falconry license. -
Step 2: Before doing anything
If you live in the USA, contact the state fish and game department and request a Falconry Packet. , Telemetry is an absolute must
- you only lose your bird once.
For a complete list of items you may need for trapping click here , This sponsor must already have done falconry for at least two years, and be willing to take the time and have patience to teach you. , It is advisable to start with a Red-Tailed, as they are more forgiving when it comes to mistakes.
If you are not an apprentice, but a general, consider a Harris hawk for your first bird, as they are intelligent and capable of catching game.
A female Lanner makes an ideal first falcon.
Do not get a Peregrine falcon, or a Gyrfalcon hybrid as a first bird, any more than you'd buy a Porsche as your first car. , The more it sees of the family, the more 'manned' it will become.
The bird should be well manned before the real training starts.
To learn more about manning see http://www.themodernapprentice.com/training.htm , Do this by placing tidbits of food between your fingers and whistling or using a designated signal noise.
The Falcon will soon recognise your glove as a food source and will begin to expect food when they hear your signal noise.
Before moving on to the lure, try increasing the distance between you and the bird when asking them to come to the glove. , Your first goal is to get the Falcon to make a short flight to the lure.
In the beginning, do not swing the lure, but place it food side up to attract the bird.
Do not forget you use your signal noise as this will reinforce the idea that food is only a short distance away.
If the bird won't come immediately, then put the lure away for a few minutes.
The bird should wait for you; you must never wait for the bird.
It will try to train you.
You must actually train it. , When flying to the lure, let the bird catch it quickly sometimes.
That way, it will always try hard and think it has a chance.
If it catches it, let it have it.
A bored bird is a lost bird. , There's no excuse for keeping a bird hooded if it's not traveling or in close, enforced company with other people's birds. , Dirt breeds disease and is a disgrace to the sport.
A bird living in an unclean environment is also much more susceptible to infections, parasites and diseases than one kept in a clean living space.
Feed a good quality, varied diet.
Many falconers use quail as the main food source for their birds, but make sure to add variety with foods such as mice, day old chicks (DOCs), etc...
Never let anyone who's not a falconer care for your bird, even for a day. -
Step 3: look into the falconry laws in your area.
-
Step 4: Make sure you read every book you can
-
Step 5: and buy all the equipment you need
-
Step 6: before you get your bird.
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Step 7: Find a sponsor (mentor) to guide you.
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Step 8: As an apprentice falconer in the United States
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Step 9: you only have the options of a Red-Tailed Hawk or an American Kestrel for a bird (unless state laws state otherwise).
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Step 10: Keep the bird in the house during its first weeks with you.
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Step 11: teach the falcon to hop or fly to the glove on your fist.
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Step 12: When adding the lure to your training
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Step 13: begin with letting the bird eat off of it so that this too will become a recognised source of food.
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Step 14: Once you feel confident that the Falcon is keen to the lure
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Step 15: you can begin swinging it.
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Step 16: Man the falcon to the hood early and even after the hooding goes well
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Step 17: continue to do hood exercises every day.
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Step 18: Keep everything clean and neat - all the time.
Detailed Guide
Too many birds are lost and killed by inexperience.
You also must have a license to do falconry.
In the United States, you must have state and federal permits along with a hunting license.
DO NOT capture a falcon and fly it until you have obtained your falconry license.
If you live in the USA, contact the state fish and game department and request a Falconry Packet. , Telemetry is an absolute must
- you only lose your bird once.
For a complete list of items you may need for trapping click here , This sponsor must already have done falconry for at least two years, and be willing to take the time and have patience to teach you. , It is advisable to start with a Red-Tailed, as they are more forgiving when it comes to mistakes.
If you are not an apprentice, but a general, consider a Harris hawk for your first bird, as they are intelligent and capable of catching game.
A female Lanner makes an ideal first falcon.
Do not get a Peregrine falcon, or a Gyrfalcon hybrid as a first bird, any more than you'd buy a Porsche as your first car. , The more it sees of the family, the more 'manned' it will become.
The bird should be well manned before the real training starts.
To learn more about manning see http://www.themodernapprentice.com/training.htm , Do this by placing tidbits of food between your fingers and whistling or using a designated signal noise.
The Falcon will soon recognise your glove as a food source and will begin to expect food when they hear your signal noise.
Before moving on to the lure, try increasing the distance between you and the bird when asking them to come to the glove. , Your first goal is to get the Falcon to make a short flight to the lure.
In the beginning, do not swing the lure, but place it food side up to attract the bird.
Do not forget you use your signal noise as this will reinforce the idea that food is only a short distance away.
If the bird won't come immediately, then put the lure away for a few minutes.
The bird should wait for you; you must never wait for the bird.
It will try to train you.
You must actually train it. , When flying to the lure, let the bird catch it quickly sometimes.
That way, it will always try hard and think it has a chance.
If it catches it, let it have it.
A bored bird is a lost bird. , There's no excuse for keeping a bird hooded if it's not traveling or in close, enforced company with other people's birds. , Dirt breeds disease and is a disgrace to the sport.
A bird living in an unclean environment is also much more susceptible to infections, parasites and diseases than one kept in a clean living space.
Feed a good quality, varied diet.
Many falconers use quail as the main food source for their birds, but make sure to add variety with foods such as mice, day old chicks (DOCs), etc...
Never let anyone who's not a falconer care for your bird, even for a day.
About the Author
Ann Roberts
With a background in science and research, Ann Roberts brings 2 years of hands-on experience to every article. Ann believes in making complex topics accessible to everyone.
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