How to Fix a Leaky Faucet
Turn off the water to your faucet., Plug the drain., Determine what type of faucet you have., Remove each handle., Use a wrench to remove the nut., Pull out the stem., Remove the seat washer., Replace the seat washer., Reassemble each handle., Buy a...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Turn off the water to your faucet.
Look underneath your sink for the pipes that run up.
Along those pipes somewhere will be handles that you can turn to shut off the water to your sink.
Twist clockwise to shut off. -
Step 2: Plug the drain.
Use a sink plug if you have one or a rag.
Nothing will ruin your day faster than having a screw or a washer go down the drain. , A compression faucet has two screw handles, one for hot and one for cold, and is the easiest to recognize by sight.
The other three types of faucet all have one central, swiveling arm that you can swing from hot to cold as desired.You may have to take your faucet apart before you know which is which, because the internal mechanisms at the base of their arms are all different:
A ball faucet contains a ball bearing.
A cartridge faucet contains a cartridge.
The materials of the cartridge will vary, but handle often has a decorative cap.
A ceramic-disk faucet contains a ceramic cylinder. , Pry off the decorative cap if necessary (usually reading “Hot” or “Cold”), unscrew, and remove the handle. , Underneath, you will find the stem, which sits on top of the O-ring, which sits on top of a seat washer.
The seat washer is usually made of rubber, which can get worn out after a while.
If your faucet is dripping, this is mostly likely the culprit., This will expose the O-ring, which will be thinner, and seat washer, which will be thicker.
If the handles are leaky (as opposed to the faucet), replace the O-ring.
Take the old one to the hardware store and use it to find a replacement. , This will be held in place with an upside-down brass screw. , Since these washers vary in size, you might need to bring the old one in with you to a parts store to find an exact match.
Coat the replacement in plumber’s grease before installing it. , Any minor leaks should now be fixed. , Ball faucets have several parts that will need to be replaced and some that require special tools.
You won't need to replace the entire faucet, just the faucet cam assembly.
All of the stuff you'll need, including tools, should be included in this type of kit that runs about $20 and is available in the plumbing section of most home repair shops. , Lift off the handle and place it aside. , Also, loosen the faucet cam by using the tool provided in your replacement kit for this purpose.
Remove the faucet cam, washer, and ball.
This will look like a "ball and socket" joint in your body--a movable (usually white) rubber ball plugs the socket, stopping up the water and releasing it. , To do this, you will need to reach into the mechanism itself, probably using needle-nose pliers. , Cut off the old ones and coat the new ones in plumber’s grease before installing. , These should all be included in your kit, and should be essentially the reverse of the process you completed. , The leak should now be repaired. , Pry off the decorative cap if necessary, unscrew, and remove the handle by tilting it backwards. , This is a circular, threaded piece (usually plastic) that sometimes holds the cartridge in place and can be pulled out with pliers. , This is the position the cartridge sits in when the water is on full blast. , Set aside and locate the O-rings. , Cut off the old ones using a utility knife and coat the new ones in plumber’s grease before installing them. , The leak should now be repaired. , After unscrewing and removing the handle, locate the escutcheon, which sits directly beneath the handle and is usually made of metal. , This will expose several neoprene seals on the underside. , White vinegar would work well for this purpose, especially if you have hard water.
Soak them for several hours to work out the build-up and then assess whether or not they're reusable. , If they look pitted, frayed, thin, or otherwise worn – or if you simply want to play it safe – bring them into the hardware store to find exact replacements. , Running the water too forcefully can crack the ceramic disk. -
Step 3: Determine what type of faucet you have.
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Step 4: Remove each handle.
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Step 5: Use a wrench to remove the nut.
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Step 6: Pull out the stem.
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Step 7: Remove the seat washer.
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Step 8: Replace the seat washer.
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Step 9: Reassemble each handle.
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Step 10: Buy a replacement kit.
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Step 11: Start by unscrewing and removing the handle.
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Step 12: Use pliers to remove the cap and collar.
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Step 13: Remove the inlet seals and springs.
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Step 14: Replace the O-rings.
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Step 15: Install new springs
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Step 16: valve seats
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Step 17: and cam washers.
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Step 18: Reassemble the handle.
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Step 19: Remove the handle.
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Step 20: Remove the retaining clip if necessary.
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Step 21: Pull the cartridge so that it stands straight up.
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Step 22: Remove the faucet spout.
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Step 23: Replace the O-rings.
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Step 24: Reassemble the handle.
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Step 25: Remove the escutcheon cap.
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Step 26: Unscrew and remove the disk cylinder.
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Step 27: Pry out the seals and clean the cylinders.
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Step 28: Replace the seals if necessary.
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Step 29: Reassemble the handle and very slowly turn the water on.
Detailed Guide
Look underneath your sink for the pipes that run up.
Along those pipes somewhere will be handles that you can turn to shut off the water to your sink.
Twist clockwise to shut off.
Use a sink plug if you have one or a rag.
Nothing will ruin your day faster than having a screw or a washer go down the drain. , A compression faucet has two screw handles, one for hot and one for cold, and is the easiest to recognize by sight.
The other three types of faucet all have one central, swiveling arm that you can swing from hot to cold as desired.You may have to take your faucet apart before you know which is which, because the internal mechanisms at the base of their arms are all different:
A ball faucet contains a ball bearing.
A cartridge faucet contains a cartridge.
The materials of the cartridge will vary, but handle often has a decorative cap.
A ceramic-disk faucet contains a ceramic cylinder. , Pry off the decorative cap if necessary (usually reading “Hot” or “Cold”), unscrew, and remove the handle. , Underneath, you will find the stem, which sits on top of the O-ring, which sits on top of a seat washer.
The seat washer is usually made of rubber, which can get worn out after a while.
If your faucet is dripping, this is mostly likely the culprit., This will expose the O-ring, which will be thinner, and seat washer, which will be thicker.
If the handles are leaky (as opposed to the faucet), replace the O-ring.
Take the old one to the hardware store and use it to find a replacement. , This will be held in place with an upside-down brass screw. , Since these washers vary in size, you might need to bring the old one in with you to a parts store to find an exact match.
Coat the replacement in plumber’s grease before installing it. , Any minor leaks should now be fixed. , Ball faucets have several parts that will need to be replaced and some that require special tools.
You won't need to replace the entire faucet, just the faucet cam assembly.
All of the stuff you'll need, including tools, should be included in this type of kit that runs about $20 and is available in the plumbing section of most home repair shops. , Lift off the handle and place it aside. , Also, loosen the faucet cam by using the tool provided in your replacement kit for this purpose.
Remove the faucet cam, washer, and ball.
This will look like a "ball and socket" joint in your body--a movable (usually white) rubber ball plugs the socket, stopping up the water and releasing it. , To do this, you will need to reach into the mechanism itself, probably using needle-nose pliers. , Cut off the old ones and coat the new ones in plumber’s grease before installing. , These should all be included in your kit, and should be essentially the reverse of the process you completed. , The leak should now be repaired. , Pry off the decorative cap if necessary, unscrew, and remove the handle by tilting it backwards. , This is a circular, threaded piece (usually plastic) that sometimes holds the cartridge in place and can be pulled out with pliers. , This is the position the cartridge sits in when the water is on full blast. , Set aside and locate the O-rings. , Cut off the old ones using a utility knife and coat the new ones in plumber’s grease before installing them. , The leak should now be repaired. , After unscrewing and removing the handle, locate the escutcheon, which sits directly beneath the handle and is usually made of metal. , This will expose several neoprene seals on the underside. , White vinegar would work well for this purpose, especially if you have hard water.
Soak them for several hours to work out the build-up and then assess whether or not they're reusable. , If they look pitted, frayed, thin, or otherwise worn – or if you simply want to play it safe – bring them into the hardware store to find exact replacements. , Running the water too forcefully can crack the ceramic disk.
About the Author
Deborah Davis
Dedicated to helping readers learn new skills in practical skills and beyond.
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