How to Heat and Apply Solder
Cut, file, sand or otherwise flatten the joining surfaces as much as possible., Wash the pieces clean and if possible 'pickle' them., Apply an appropriate flux to the joint area., Fix the piece in a vice, clips or similar fixture., Check the area...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: sand or otherwise flatten the joining surfaces as much as possible.
However don't overly polish the surfaces as a slightly rough or 'keyed' surface usually leads to a stronger bond.
It is crucially important in any soldering task to ensure that the pieces to be joined match up closely with the smallest gap possible. -
Step 2: Wash the pieces clean and if possible 'pickle' them.
Pickling means immersing the pieces or covering the joint area in an acid cleaning fluid.
This strips impurities, oxides and greases that can lead to poor solder flow or weak bonding. , Flux is the magic component in soldering.
Applying a moderately generous amount evenly about the bond area is sufficient. , Ensure that the pieces cannot move and that heating will not cause the fixture to melt. , If possible move either the work or the materials away.
If this is not possible, shield the materials with a flame proof device, like a heat shield mat.
If this is not possible, then either ensure you can apply heat in a safe direction or consider another method like removing the pieces and repositioning them afterwards. , Especially in heating systems water can remain that will be drawn into the heating area.
Aside from steam burning you or getting in your face, water will cool the joint and prevent soldering temperatures being reached and if they are, it will blow holes in the solder. , On a small object like a ring this is the opposite side of the ring.
On a larger pipe joint like a 22mm T, the whole T and about 4 inches (10.2Â cm) of pipe should be warmed evenly.
This keeps heat uniformly contained in the joint area and stops hot and cold spots causing irregular flows. , This is the cut in a ring, or the centre of the body of the T. , The water base of the flux should now be completely burned off.
If the flux is bubbling still, then continue heat and check again until all the flux is solidified, moving your heat source as needed to target these areas. , If the pieces are closely matched and well heated, the solder will be pulled in by thermal and surface tension forces, causing the solder to visibly flow up into the joint.
This is often seen as the best way to ensure a proper bond was formed as the solder pulled itself into the void.
If there is not quite enough solder applied but visually it is clear that it flowed, more can be added to the spots that look a little dry. ,,,,, to finish off the perfect joint! -
Step 3: Apply an appropriate flux to the joint area.
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Step 4: Fix the piece in a vice
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Step 5: clips or similar fixture.
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Step 6: Check the area for flammable materials.
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Step 7: Ensure there is no remnant moisture in any pipework or tanks.
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Step 8: Heat the pieces starting moderately far from the joint.
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Step 9: When nice and hot
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Step 10: apply heat to the jointing area directly.
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Step 11: Ensure the flux has flowed and ceased bubbling.
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Step 12: Apply the solder to the bottom of the joint.
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Step 13: Take away your heat source.
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Step 14: Inspect the joint for good bonding and a clean
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Step 15: smooth join.
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Step 16: Cool the piece with an appropriate coolant
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Step 17: usually water.
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Step 18: Clean the joint (inside and out) to remove excess flux residue.
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Step 19: file etc.
Detailed Guide
However don't overly polish the surfaces as a slightly rough or 'keyed' surface usually leads to a stronger bond.
It is crucially important in any soldering task to ensure that the pieces to be joined match up closely with the smallest gap possible.
Pickling means immersing the pieces or covering the joint area in an acid cleaning fluid.
This strips impurities, oxides and greases that can lead to poor solder flow or weak bonding. , Flux is the magic component in soldering.
Applying a moderately generous amount evenly about the bond area is sufficient. , Ensure that the pieces cannot move and that heating will not cause the fixture to melt. , If possible move either the work or the materials away.
If this is not possible, shield the materials with a flame proof device, like a heat shield mat.
If this is not possible, then either ensure you can apply heat in a safe direction or consider another method like removing the pieces and repositioning them afterwards. , Especially in heating systems water can remain that will be drawn into the heating area.
Aside from steam burning you or getting in your face, water will cool the joint and prevent soldering temperatures being reached and if they are, it will blow holes in the solder. , On a small object like a ring this is the opposite side of the ring.
On a larger pipe joint like a 22mm T, the whole T and about 4 inches (10.2Â cm) of pipe should be warmed evenly.
This keeps heat uniformly contained in the joint area and stops hot and cold spots causing irregular flows. , This is the cut in a ring, or the centre of the body of the T. , The water base of the flux should now be completely burned off.
If the flux is bubbling still, then continue heat and check again until all the flux is solidified, moving your heat source as needed to target these areas. , If the pieces are closely matched and well heated, the solder will be pulled in by thermal and surface tension forces, causing the solder to visibly flow up into the joint.
This is often seen as the best way to ensure a proper bond was formed as the solder pulled itself into the void.
If there is not quite enough solder applied but visually it is clear that it flowed, more can be added to the spots that look a little dry. ,,,,, to finish off the perfect joint!
About the Author
Olivia Nguyen
Creates helpful guides on creative arts to inspire and educate readers.
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