How to Make a Wooden Broadsword
Determine the length of your broadsword., Find wood., Cut the wood to appropriate lengths; then cut the corners off what will become the tip of your blade: these should be equal cuts resulting in an isosceles triangle with an acute top angle (a...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Determine the length of your broadsword.
To do this, measure from the top of your hip to the ground.
This will be the length of both your blade and hilt.
However, if you are fighting someone of equal size as yourself, you should make them equal size, for sparring. -
Step 2: Find wood.
One half inch thick, and one and one quarter inches wide is a suitable thickness and width for a broadsword, and is the same dimension as baseboard you can find at the local Home Depot.
Be aware that this means one of your edges will be rounded, but in the grand scheme of things, the enemy you just beheaded won't notice.
Also, get some smaller pieces for the hilt, about 6 inches (15.2 cm) long (although this varies in accordance with your sword length), same width, and 1/4th inch thick. , Off the bottom (what will be the pommel), make also equal cuts, but this angle should be obtuse, since you intend to sand this into a rounded shape. , Hey-- no complaining, this is part of being a master swordsman.
Sand your blade point until the triangle becomes rounded, and sand the pommel so that it becomes rounded.
It is also a merciful practice to sand the top of te blade so it's not actually sharp.
You may omit this step if you are preparing for a real battle.
Also, sand the edges up six inches from the pommel; this will be your grip, so you don't want the edges digging in.
And while you're at it, just sand the entire sword.
Nothing ruins a good arm slash like leftover splinters.
When you sand everything in coarse grit, do a good run down on the finest grit you can get, and blow off the resulting sand-powder. , Now don't just stand there, get back to work, Lancelot.
It's time to lacquer those beauty(s) with Instant Drying Lacquer (it should be in a spray can.) Go outside, and apply a good 4 coats, waiting at least 15 minutes between coats.
Don't cheat here, this stuff could save your precious weapons from unsightly scratches.
And don't wimp out; your lungs could always use a good lacquering, too.
Or wear a mask. , Spray the blades with silver, down to (and a little past) the 6-inch-from-the-pommel mark.
Spray your hilt pieces with gold, along with the little nub which will be your pommel.
Be careful not to get gold on your silver! A minimum of 2 coats will give you that threatening-shiny look you've always wanted. , Once you've done that (and everything is dry) grab your hilt pieces, one for each side of the sword and nail them in with 16x3/4" nails, in a criss-cross pattern (that means two diagonal on one side, and do the opposite diagonal from the other side.) , You will need a different piece of tape for that last circle, because it will be mathematically impossible to make it end evenly.
But you'll try this anyway.) , But if you were hiding behind a rock this time, waiting for battle, now is a good time to run out and give your war call.
Quick! -
Step 3: Cut the wood to appropriate lengths; then cut the corners off what will become the tip of your blade: these should be equal cuts resulting in an isosceles triangle with an acute top angle (a refresher course in geometry may be recommended.)
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Step 4: Speaking of sanding
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Step 5: take out your coarse grit sandpaper
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Step 6: and prepare to sand away furiously.
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Step 7: Congratulate yourself; you got past the hard part (sanding).
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Step 8: After the lacquer has dried for at least 24 hours
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Step 9: it's time to break out the metallic paint!
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Step 10: Now take some black electrical tape and wrap one line around the 6-inch mark mentioned above.
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Step 11: wind your handy black electrical tape in a slowly descending spiral down the hilt
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Step 12: and tape off another circle right above your gold painted pommel (you approximate this.
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Step 13: If you are one of them fancy types
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Step 14: you can deck out your glorious hilt and pommel with fake jewels
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Step 15: or maybe wind a strap of leather in a criss-cross pattern to hide the nails.
Detailed Guide
To do this, measure from the top of your hip to the ground.
This will be the length of both your blade and hilt.
However, if you are fighting someone of equal size as yourself, you should make them equal size, for sparring.
One half inch thick, and one and one quarter inches wide is a suitable thickness and width for a broadsword, and is the same dimension as baseboard you can find at the local Home Depot.
Be aware that this means one of your edges will be rounded, but in the grand scheme of things, the enemy you just beheaded won't notice.
Also, get some smaller pieces for the hilt, about 6 inches (15.2 cm) long (although this varies in accordance with your sword length), same width, and 1/4th inch thick. , Off the bottom (what will be the pommel), make also equal cuts, but this angle should be obtuse, since you intend to sand this into a rounded shape. , Hey-- no complaining, this is part of being a master swordsman.
Sand your blade point until the triangle becomes rounded, and sand the pommel so that it becomes rounded.
It is also a merciful practice to sand the top of te blade so it's not actually sharp.
You may omit this step if you are preparing for a real battle.
Also, sand the edges up six inches from the pommel; this will be your grip, so you don't want the edges digging in.
And while you're at it, just sand the entire sword.
Nothing ruins a good arm slash like leftover splinters.
When you sand everything in coarse grit, do a good run down on the finest grit you can get, and blow off the resulting sand-powder. , Now don't just stand there, get back to work, Lancelot.
It's time to lacquer those beauty(s) with Instant Drying Lacquer (it should be in a spray can.) Go outside, and apply a good 4 coats, waiting at least 15 minutes between coats.
Don't cheat here, this stuff could save your precious weapons from unsightly scratches.
And don't wimp out; your lungs could always use a good lacquering, too.
Or wear a mask. , Spray the blades with silver, down to (and a little past) the 6-inch-from-the-pommel mark.
Spray your hilt pieces with gold, along with the little nub which will be your pommel.
Be careful not to get gold on your silver! A minimum of 2 coats will give you that threatening-shiny look you've always wanted. , Once you've done that (and everything is dry) grab your hilt pieces, one for each side of the sword and nail them in with 16x3/4" nails, in a criss-cross pattern (that means two diagonal on one side, and do the opposite diagonal from the other side.) , You will need a different piece of tape for that last circle, because it will be mathematically impossible to make it end evenly.
But you'll try this anyway.) , But if you were hiding behind a rock this time, waiting for battle, now is a good time to run out and give your war call.
Quick!
About the Author
Emma Russell
Experienced content creator specializing in crafts guides and tutorials.
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