How to Develop Photos at Home
Get the film., Prepare the end of the film you had left sticking out to make the loading easier., Pick up your scissors and cut the rounded edges at the corner of the film., Let there be no light!, Open the film spool/ The film spool has a clever...
Step-by-Step Guide
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Step 1: Get the film.
Since this can be a total pain in the neck, a bit of foresight can simplify this step.
When winding the film back into your camera, ensure it doesn't fully retract into the canister and a little bit is left poking out.
Once the film detaches from the right hand's spool, it can usually be felt so you will want to stop at this point so it doesn't fully wind into the canister.
Refer to the photo to get an idea of how much film you'll want to leave sticking out.
If the film does end up fully back inside the canister, to 'extract' it back out, there are two options:
Use a film extractor.
It can be fiddly however once you get the hang of it, it is fairly simple to use.
Instructions for use are usually printed on the extractor.
Use a special film canister opener.
It's like a bottle opener so you use it to pop off one end of the film canister.
Be warned though:
This must be done in total darkness or else the film will get exposed and be ruined! -
Step 2: Prepare the end of the film you had left sticking out to make the loading easier.
Take a pair of scissors and cut the tab off the end of the film so there is a straight edge on the end of the film. , This makes the loading smoother and helps the film roll around the spool. , In pitch darkness, the lights of your room turned off, the windows closed, with you under your bed covers, you can only then proceed with developing your film.
Since the film is still highly light-sensitive, the least exposure to the under-developed film can cause all your pretty pictures to turn out white! Optionally, if someone attempts to enter your room or threatens to run on the lights, you can scream: “I'm having some happy alone time!” and generally with one look at you, they’ll make a swift exit. , You may have to manually pull a length of film from the canister to get it started. , Once all the film is out the canister, use a pair of scissors to snip the canister off the end of the film.
This takes some getting used to, especially as it must be carried out in darkness, so it's recommended sacrificing a film to practice with, in the light first, then in the light with eyes closed and finally give it ago in total darkness.
Ensure you only touch the film by the edges during this otherwise you can scratch your negatives (the third picture is an example of how nasty this can look). , Still in darkness, take the film spool, slide it onto the central spool, put the retaining clip on top and place the whole lot inside the developing tank.
Make sure the lightproof seal is still in place.
Screw on the top cap. ,, Depending on where you live, this may be slightly tricky so ask around your local camera shop and they should be able to point you in the right direction.
In UK, you can order the chemicals from a website called Jessops.
However, do your own research and explore camera shop websites with a local store for you.
The two chemicals you'll be using are:
The developer.
The essential chemistry behind developing films is this: the grapevine on the developer deposits silver crystals on the film on the areas that have been exposed to light, causing them to go dark (hence images turn out negative).
The fixer.
The fixer fixes the deposited silver crystals in place, stopping the film from becoming light sensitive. , Based on the brands you use, the dilution rates differ accordingly.
For instance, for a particular brand, the developer may be diluted 1:14 and fixer at 1:4. , The developer is extremely temperature sensitive (the fixer slightly less so).
For most brands the optimum temperature is 20 degrees C (or 68 degrees Fahrenheit).
To get the temperatures right, use hot and cold water to dilute the developer and fixer until they're roughly at correct temperature.
Use a decent thermometer to aid you.
Sit the chemicals in a pair of measuring jugs in a pan filled with either hot or cold water to reach the required temperature. , While developing and fixing, timing is crucial so read carefully on the sides of the bottles to find out the times for both fixer and developer.
It varies from brand to brand however, normally the developer takes about 14 minutes while fixer needs about 2 minutes. , Sharply knock the tank on a table to dislodge any bubbles clinging to the film.
Leave this to develop for the correct amount of time, shaking the developing tank for 20 seconds every 2 minutes. (At this point the more you agitate the developer, the higher the contrast of the image, so adjust this to your wishes) , Fill it up with water then pour it out.
Repeat this several times then leave the tank under a running tap of cold water for about 10 minutes. , Pour in the fixing solution, tapping the tank on a table sharply to remove any bubbles again.
Leave the photos there for a while until the correct amount of time has passed and pull away the fixer.
After pulling the fixer, then, rinse out the developing tank with cold water a couple more times.
The film is now developed and your spanking new, shiny negatives are only a step away! , Twist the film spool until it clicks and the two halves separate.
Remove the film.
Holding carefully the film by edges only, find a dust-free area in your home/room/blimp and using some clothes pegs, peg up the film to dry.
Also put a peg on the bottom of the film to keep it straight and stop it from curling up. (note: your film will be longer than the one in the picture, this is a scrap I found for demonstrative purposes.) , Once the film is dry, cut it up into smaller pieces.
Be careful to not accidentally chop any of your pictures in half. , Follow this guide to do just that: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Print-BW-Photographs-in-a-Darkroom/ Get prints done at a shop.
This can be quite expensive, costing up to £1.50 for just one small print.
Get them scanned.
Most film developing places give you the option of putting your prints onto a CD, usually costing about £2 for a whole roll.
You can then take the photos to the student print shop and get their prints on photo paper.
This comes out considerably cheaper.
Scan the photos.
If you use a flatbed scanner, this can turn out nasty! However, this step ensures you permanently preserve the result of your photo-developing skills, nasty or not! Now sit back, admire your work and wait for people to come explore your unique artistic ability with the camera. -
Step 3: Pick up your scissors and cut the rounded edges at the corner of the film.
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Step 4: Let there be no light!
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Step 5: Open the film spool/ The film spool has a clever little mechanism involving small ball bearings so that when you twist it one way then back
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Step 6: the film advances onto the spool and can be pulled out the canister.
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Step 7: Load the film onto the developing spool.
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Step 8: At this point
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Step 9: you should still be underneath your bed sheets and in darkness and have the film loaded onto the film spool.
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Step 10: Turn the light back on as the film should now be safely inside the lightproof developing tank.
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Step 11: Get the chemicals.
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Step 12: Dilute the chemicals.
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Step 13: Manage the temperature.
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Step 14: Get the time right.
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Step 15: When the chemicals have reached the correct temperature
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Step 16: pour the developer into the top of the developing tank.
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Step 17: Once the time is up pour away the developer out the top of the tank.
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Step 18: Pour all the water out the tank.
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Step 19: Open the tank and take out the film spool.
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Step 20: Chopping time!
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Step 21: With your negatives
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Step 22: you can choose one of the following options: Make your own prints.
Detailed Guide
Since this can be a total pain in the neck, a bit of foresight can simplify this step.
When winding the film back into your camera, ensure it doesn't fully retract into the canister and a little bit is left poking out.
Once the film detaches from the right hand's spool, it can usually be felt so you will want to stop at this point so it doesn't fully wind into the canister.
Refer to the photo to get an idea of how much film you'll want to leave sticking out.
If the film does end up fully back inside the canister, to 'extract' it back out, there are two options:
Use a film extractor.
It can be fiddly however once you get the hang of it, it is fairly simple to use.
Instructions for use are usually printed on the extractor.
Use a special film canister opener.
It's like a bottle opener so you use it to pop off one end of the film canister.
Be warned though:
This must be done in total darkness or else the film will get exposed and be ruined!
Take a pair of scissors and cut the tab off the end of the film so there is a straight edge on the end of the film. , This makes the loading smoother and helps the film roll around the spool. , In pitch darkness, the lights of your room turned off, the windows closed, with you under your bed covers, you can only then proceed with developing your film.
Since the film is still highly light-sensitive, the least exposure to the under-developed film can cause all your pretty pictures to turn out white! Optionally, if someone attempts to enter your room or threatens to run on the lights, you can scream: “I'm having some happy alone time!” and generally with one look at you, they’ll make a swift exit. , You may have to manually pull a length of film from the canister to get it started. , Once all the film is out the canister, use a pair of scissors to snip the canister off the end of the film.
This takes some getting used to, especially as it must be carried out in darkness, so it's recommended sacrificing a film to practice with, in the light first, then in the light with eyes closed and finally give it ago in total darkness.
Ensure you only touch the film by the edges during this otherwise you can scratch your negatives (the third picture is an example of how nasty this can look). , Still in darkness, take the film spool, slide it onto the central spool, put the retaining clip on top and place the whole lot inside the developing tank.
Make sure the lightproof seal is still in place.
Screw on the top cap. ,, Depending on where you live, this may be slightly tricky so ask around your local camera shop and they should be able to point you in the right direction.
In UK, you can order the chemicals from a website called Jessops.
However, do your own research and explore camera shop websites with a local store for you.
The two chemicals you'll be using are:
The developer.
The essential chemistry behind developing films is this: the grapevine on the developer deposits silver crystals on the film on the areas that have been exposed to light, causing them to go dark (hence images turn out negative).
The fixer.
The fixer fixes the deposited silver crystals in place, stopping the film from becoming light sensitive. , Based on the brands you use, the dilution rates differ accordingly.
For instance, for a particular brand, the developer may be diluted 1:14 and fixer at 1:4. , The developer is extremely temperature sensitive (the fixer slightly less so).
For most brands the optimum temperature is 20 degrees C (or 68 degrees Fahrenheit).
To get the temperatures right, use hot and cold water to dilute the developer and fixer until they're roughly at correct temperature.
Use a decent thermometer to aid you.
Sit the chemicals in a pair of measuring jugs in a pan filled with either hot or cold water to reach the required temperature. , While developing and fixing, timing is crucial so read carefully on the sides of the bottles to find out the times for both fixer and developer.
It varies from brand to brand however, normally the developer takes about 14 minutes while fixer needs about 2 minutes. , Sharply knock the tank on a table to dislodge any bubbles clinging to the film.
Leave this to develop for the correct amount of time, shaking the developing tank for 20 seconds every 2 minutes. (At this point the more you agitate the developer, the higher the contrast of the image, so adjust this to your wishes) , Fill it up with water then pour it out.
Repeat this several times then leave the tank under a running tap of cold water for about 10 minutes. , Pour in the fixing solution, tapping the tank on a table sharply to remove any bubbles again.
Leave the photos there for a while until the correct amount of time has passed and pull away the fixer.
After pulling the fixer, then, rinse out the developing tank with cold water a couple more times.
The film is now developed and your spanking new, shiny negatives are only a step away! , Twist the film spool until it clicks and the two halves separate.
Remove the film.
Holding carefully the film by edges only, find a dust-free area in your home/room/blimp and using some clothes pegs, peg up the film to dry.
Also put a peg on the bottom of the film to keep it straight and stop it from curling up. (note: your film will be longer than the one in the picture, this is a scrap I found for demonstrative purposes.) , Once the film is dry, cut it up into smaller pieces.
Be careful to not accidentally chop any of your pictures in half. , Follow this guide to do just that: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Print-BW-Photographs-in-a-Darkroom/ Get prints done at a shop.
This can be quite expensive, costing up to £1.50 for just one small print.
Get them scanned.
Most film developing places give you the option of putting your prints onto a CD, usually costing about £2 for a whole roll.
You can then take the photos to the student print shop and get their prints on photo paper.
This comes out considerably cheaper.
Scan the photos.
If you use a flatbed scanner, this can turn out nasty! However, this step ensures you permanently preserve the result of your photo-developing skills, nasty or not! Now sit back, admire your work and wait for people to come explore your unique artistic ability with the camera.
About the Author
Joshua Ward
Committed to making practical skills accessible and understandable for everyone.
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